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Cant tighten clutch cable

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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 08:43 PM
  #1  
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Default Cant tighten clutch cable

I traded in the RK for a 2011 FLHTCU. The clutch on this is so easy to pull. I could sit in traffic all day and not care but the friction zone is too far out for my liking. There was a lot of play in the cable too. Probably a good 1/4-1/2" slop in the clutch lever before it starts pulling the cable.So loosened up the cable adjuster and went into the primary and adjusted it to where it just touches and then 3/4 turn back. Upon tightening up the adjuster I could not get the cable tight enough before there were no more threads on the adjuster and the two parts separated. Only way I could get everything back together and working (functioning) properly was to screw in the rod in the primary wayyy past where the service manual says to stop and back it out and tighten it down. So its in there a few turns past where it grabs and I got the adjuster threaded together by several threads. Friction zone is exactly where it was when I started. Rode around all day with no issues. I dont feel the clutch grabbing at stops and I can feel it fully release.

Anyone ever experience this? Is it a faulty adjuster? Is the cable itself too long? Does it have something to do with the really easy clutch pull? Do those aftermarket things that make a clutch easier to pull cause this? (I have no idea whether this bike has one or not but I am inclined to think it does by the clutch pull)
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 09:09 PM
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Some time there's a burr on the clutch adjuster in the primary. It's recommended to thread it in
then back it out then set the clutch rod.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RANGER73
Some time there's a burr on the clutch adjuster in the primary. It's recommended to thread it in
then back it out then set the clutch rod.
This was more than just a burr I thought was where I needed to stop. I was screwing in the clutch rod past the point where it was operating the clutch if that makes sense. With slight pressure on the clutch lever I screwed the rod in until the clutch lever was moved away from the bar about 3/4 of an inch five or take. Enough to where I felt it would still fully engage when the lever was pulled in.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 07:28 AM
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I've always felt the clutch adjustment on my 2011 was strange also. Have to keep the adjustment in the primary much further in than normal, certainly different than my 08 was.

Try this method, it seemed a little better to me. Either way, both adjustments are affecting the same feel at the clutch lever so if you're out of threads on the cable, just go further at the primary.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 08:14 AM
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I'd say the adjustment at the clutch basket is off.

The above mentioned method has worked well for me.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
I'd say the adjustment at the clutch basket is off.

The above mentioned method has worked well for me.
Originally Posted by caulk04
I've always felt the clutch adjustment on my 2011 was strange also. Have to keep the adjustment in the primary much further in than normal, certainly different than my 08 was.

Try this method, it seemed a little better to me. Either way, both adjustments are affecting the same feel at the clutch lever so if you're out of threads on the cable, just go further at the primary.

This isn’t my first time adjusting a clutch. It is the first time on this bike but it is the exact same process. I have never had to screw the adjuster rod in almost until it stops with force just to get the clutch lever and cable adjust to work properly.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 11:01 AM
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Adjust the clutch basket free play to 3/4 turn from seated. This MUST be done with the cable adjuster collapsed lots of cable slack.
Once the free play at the throughout bearing has been adjusted you then adjust the cable so the friction zone is where you like it.
IF there is nothing wrong (ie: cable end out of place, etc) the above procedure works without issue.
Bob
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by FLTRI17
Adjust the clutch basket free play to 3/4 turn from seated. This MUST be done with the cable adjuster collapsed lots of cable slack.
Once the free play at the throughout bearing has been adjusted you then adjust the cable so the friction zone is where you like it.
IF there is nothing wrong (ie: cable end out of place, etc) the above procedure works without issue.
Bob
Yes, this was the procedure that I followed. But the cable adjuster can’t be adjusted enough without it coming loose. Even with the adjuster rod in the clutch basket screwed almost all the way in there is still slack in the lever
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 12:44 PM
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On my '02 I have one of the easy pull clutch levers. It moves the connection point where the cable connects and takes away some of the cable adjustability. I had to replace the cable last year due to stretch over time it got to what you describe.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by eathomps
On my '02 I have one of the easy pull clutch levers. It moves the connection point where the cable connects and takes away some of the cable adjustability. I had to replace the cable last year due to stretch over time it got to what you describe.
Was your clutch level pull like a warm knife through butter once installed!?
This is the only logical explanation I can think of without having gone into the trans side cover.
 
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