Charging Systems Are Expensive!!!
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 203
From: Susanville CA
2008 FLHTCU with P0562 and P0572
I know the two codes are two different systems (charging and electrical) but I'm also wondering if somehow they're related.
Series of Events
1. The first thing I noticed that went bad was my phone charger which is spliced into a switched/fused accessory wire. (no codes)
2. A couple weeks later my hand grip heaters went out. (no codes). Since it was the beginning of summer I didn't really worry about it.
3. Fast forward a few months to winter and I disassembled my right hand grip to start testing the wires to the heater switch. Removed switch assembly, brake lever and grip.
4. The weather was too nice to have a bike sitting so when my buddy stopped in to ride on Christmas Day I through everything back together and went for a ride. During which, my engine and battery lights came on and my voltmeter was showing around 10.5v.
5. Got back home and pulled the codes P0562 (charging system) and P0572 (Brake Light)
6. I checked the brake light function for both front and rear brakes and the brake lights do not switch. Because this is the lesser of the two codes and probably just a switch, I moved on to the charging system.
7. I did a ground test on the stator. Unplugged Stator wire from Regulator and tested resistance between each of the three wire contacts and a solid ground - failed. All three contacts showed resistance when they are supposed to be Open.
8. I did a diode bench test on the regulator and found only the ground diodes are working as expected (Neg to ground/Pos to stator connectors showed resistance) All other combinations showed Open.
Based on the results, I believe I need to order a new regulator and stator. What test do I need to perform for the rotor? From what I'm reading, people suggest getting all three. However, the rotor is the price of the stator & regulator combined. I could be upward of $400 on this buying all aftermarket parts.
I thought I would check with you guys for your thoughts before I went any further. Here are the various questions:
1. Is my diagnosis correct on the stator? If I'm not getting an Open reading (ie. "1") between ground and the stator wire connectors that is a grounded stator and needs replaced - Right?
2. Is my diagnosis correct on the regulator? On a bench test, both the Lead connector (going to battery) and ground connector should have an Open reading going one direction and a reading with resistance going the opposite direction. Is there a reason why I would get an Open reading in both directions if the regulator wasn't bad?
3. Is there a test for the rotor? I don't have $200 to just throw at the bike "just to be sure", but if it's bad. I want to replace it.
4. Am I ok to focus on one code and then the next or do you think they may be related?
Thanks for your help!
I know the two codes are two different systems (charging and electrical) but I'm also wondering if somehow they're related.
Series of Events
1. The first thing I noticed that went bad was my phone charger which is spliced into a switched/fused accessory wire. (no codes)
2. A couple weeks later my hand grip heaters went out. (no codes). Since it was the beginning of summer I didn't really worry about it.
3. Fast forward a few months to winter and I disassembled my right hand grip to start testing the wires to the heater switch. Removed switch assembly, brake lever and grip.
4. The weather was too nice to have a bike sitting so when my buddy stopped in to ride on Christmas Day I through everything back together and went for a ride. During which, my engine and battery lights came on and my voltmeter was showing around 10.5v.
5. Got back home and pulled the codes P0562 (charging system) and P0572 (Brake Light)
6. I checked the brake light function for both front and rear brakes and the brake lights do not switch. Because this is the lesser of the two codes and probably just a switch, I moved on to the charging system.
7. I did a ground test on the stator. Unplugged Stator wire from Regulator and tested resistance between each of the three wire contacts and a solid ground - failed. All three contacts showed resistance when they are supposed to be Open.
8. I did a diode bench test on the regulator and found only the ground diodes are working as expected (Neg to ground/Pos to stator connectors showed resistance) All other combinations showed Open.
Based on the results, I believe I need to order a new regulator and stator. What test do I need to perform for the rotor? From what I'm reading, people suggest getting all three. However, the rotor is the price of the stator & regulator combined. I could be upward of $400 on this buying all aftermarket parts.
I thought I would check with you guys for your thoughts before I went any further. Here are the various questions:
1. Is my diagnosis correct on the stator? If I'm not getting an Open reading (ie. "1") between ground and the stator wire connectors that is a grounded stator and needs replaced - Right?
2. Is my diagnosis correct on the regulator? On a bench test, both the Lead connector (going to battery) and ground connector should have an Open reading going one direction and a reading with resistance going the opposite direction. Is there a reason why I would get an Open reading in both directions if the regulator wasn't bad?
3. Is there a test for the rotor? I don't have $200 to just throw at the bike "just to be sure", but if it's bad. I want to replace it.
4. Am I ok to focus on one code and then the next or do you think they may be related?
Thanks for your help!
Last edited by Lunchboxx; Dec 30, 2019 at 03:03 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: US
Wait a minute...I thought my reading of "000" meant my stator is grounded = bad stator. Or is that NOT what you mean by "Good enought"?
Thanks! I'll check this out. Not sure if you saw the linked video in original post, but I really appreciated the explanation and walk through of the bench test on the VR.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: US
I personally would get the cycle electric 3 phase kit. I did this on my 01 RG when the stator went out.
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Electri.../dp/B0031BL680
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Electri.../dp/B0031BL680
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: US
Can you link me to this sticky? I can't seem to find it.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...ting-alarm-43/ look at the top and you will see testing charging system 1 and then 2
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,527
Likes: 6,407
From: Honah Lee
Wait a minute...I thought my reading of "000" meant my stator is grounded = bad stator. Or is that NOT what you mean by "Good enought"?
Thanks! I'll check this out. Not sure if you saw the linked video in original post, but I really appreciated the explanation and walk through of the bench test on the VR.
Thanks! I'll check this out. Not sure if you saw the linked video in original post, but I really appreciated the explanation and walk through of the bench test on the VR.
Set you meter to 1X or so. Short your probes together and zero your meter. Pull them apart. What ever you see now is what you should see for each of the 3 stator leads when you attach a meter wire to them and the other meter wire to a solid connection on the primary cover or cylinder fin.
I had interpreted what you had said above in a previous post that you saw a meter change when you checked the 3 wires to a ground. If that is true your stator windings are shorted together and gone to the laminates the wire is wound around.
Make sure you are checking correctly. You can spin a lot of wheels checking wrong. Even then, it can be tricky Read this.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...r-reading.html
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 30, 2019 at 06:40 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: US
Word can get a little confused with terms for ohm meters.
I had interpreted what you had said above in a previous post that you saw a meter change when you checked the 3 wires to a ground. If that is true your stator windings are shorted together and gone to the laminates the wire is wound around.
I had interpreted what you had said above in a previous post that you saw a meter change when you checked the 3 wires to a ground. If that is true your stator windings are shorted together and gone to the laminates the wire is wound around.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: US
Coming to a halt for tonight. I concluded, based on responses and additional reading, that:
1. P0562 isn't related to P0572 - I will diagnose the latter in another post after resolving the charging system.
2. Stator is fried - I am getting a reading on all 3 sockets proving my wiring is contacting ground.
3. Regulator is fried - this was probably caused by the Stator grounding.
4. Rotor is yet to be determined - I will visually inspect this after I remove it.
My snap ring pliers don't have a wide enough span to remove the snap ring from the clutch assembly. I'll pick up a larger set tomorrow and get back at before the weekend. I'll post updates.
Thanks for your help!
1. P0562 isn't related to P0572 - I will diagnose the latter in another post after resolving the charging system.
2. Stator is fried - I am getting a reading on all 3 sockets proving my wiring is contacting ground.
3. Regulator is fried - this was probably caused by the Stator grounding.
4. Rotor is yet to be determined - I will visually inspect this after I remove it.
My snap ring pliers don't have a wide enough span to remove the snap ring from the clutch assembly. I'll pick up a larger set tomorrow and get back at before the weekend. I'll post updates.
Thanks for your help!
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 2,858
From: Oklahoma
The rotor is mechanical, the health of the splines was already mentioned. Have never hear anyone say the magnets could rattle, they are cast in and should be solid BUT don't use impact tools to loosen and tighten the nuts/bolts. The clutch nut is LEFT handed and you might not need to remove the clutch if you remove the tensioner That usually makes enough slack to get the chain off the front sprocket or remove it altogether. If you have the original compensator you will eventually need a new compensator AND rotor. None of the new compensators work with the original 08 rotor with the coil spring in the can. You must remove the rotor to access the stator anyway. CAUTION, the magnets are very strong and if the rotor slips back down you don't want a finger trapped under the lip of the rotor. very painful pinch. Unfortunately, a new rotor and compensator will add another $500 or so to the job. When you finally get around to the brake light problem, I would bet you will find the brake light is ON all the time. It is almost guaranteed when fooling with the right side switch housing and brake lever that the little, VERY TENDER plastic button on the switch got broken off and the switch now doesn't get pushed back in far enough to turn off the brake light. A lot of guys have been through that too, and there are "shade tree" fixes to avoid having to buy a new switch and splice it in. If your other reading doesn't mention it, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before getting into the primary case. The starter is quite powerful and a random short could activate it and mangle or amputate fingers. Having a shop do the work is cheap compared to that.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 147
Likes: 61
From: Mulkeytown, IL
It sounds like you have done a lot of "wiring" on the bike. Could that and the "I just threw the right hand grip heater wiring back in and went for a ride" have anything to do with your issues? It just seems odd that your whole charging system would Chernobyl all at once. I'd be looking for shorts before I installed all of those nice new expensive parts.