I wasn’t really concerned....the bike was still being worked on. It was just something that caught my eye.

 

On a "normal" nut and bolt it is recognised that you need 1.5 turns of thread showing for maximum strength.

Looking at the axle nut you can see where the thread ends so it looks like the axle would finish about flush to achieve the 1.5 turns of thread.

The second picture by Boomer seems to confirm that.

 

That whole 'drill bit' issue has changed over the years. On my '06EG the manual stated to use a drill bit in the holes and spread the fork tube until it makes contact with the bit, then tighten.
Different story on my '13EG. On the '13 the hole is there to hold the axle when tightening-so doing the 'drill bit' thingy on the '13 will screw up the alignment, brake caliper/rotor position, etc. Ask me how I know-go ahead, ask.

 

on my 07 it did. but not on my 2010. so it 'literally' depends on what year you're working on.

 

The factory manual says no such thing for a 2012 Touring Model.

 

It seems many people assume all Harleys are the same...

 

2000-07 1" axle - Use Drill bit Alignment Method
2008-later 25mm axle - DO NOT USE Drill bit Alignment Method (everything changed ... cross-drilled hole placement in axle, spacer lengths, etc)


Below pic for some Reference to differences (grabbed pic from one of my other threads)
08-later on Top ... disregard the bearing shim, that's used on 08-only from the factory (unless changing to wheels that need it)










.

 

The factory manual page reference 2012 touring front axle just happens to be posted in post #9

 

Well, once again it seems Im 20 years behind every service procedure. I was a service manager from 99-02....It would seem there have been a few changes since.

I owe Dan89 beer.