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‘18 Sportster to ‘03 Road King

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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 02:07 PM
  #11  
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you seem to be confusing hydraulic clutch with cam chain tensioners

not remotely connected[/QUOTE]

Yea, I thought they were connected or correlated to each other & haven’t done any research into it yet..
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 02:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by figmatic
yes I realized that & although would’ve loved to trade my ‘18 iron for an ‘16+ RK Special, my budget doesn’t allow for it. This bike will be something that checks off all of the boxes for now. I don’t mind doing maintenance myself or slowly doing these check-ups myself if possible because I love to learn and tinker with things myself. I will definitely be keeping all of these things in my notes app so I can always reference them and research them as time goes on. I’m loving all the support & tips I’m getting from everyone.
Checking the tires will be the most important at this point, old tires may look good but are not safe and I would not wait on that check. The rest sounds like you have a good plan. The bike will be a lot of fun and congrats.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 02:34 PM
  #13  
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Default Sporster to King

Nice looking ride. All three maintainence suggestions are spot on and the tire check a must.

I bought my 07 RK two years back, 15k on it an in perfect shape. Shortly there after neck and back pain and pulling in/down the bars did not help. One set of Hertiage Softail bars later all was good. Now when that was done it turned out I had a cracked Y pipe which ended up with me going to true duals with my V&huh pipes. And now truly all is divine. I The bike already had the stage one done so power wise I feel good there. So check the bars and if really loud your Y pipe as the dealer says it's a common part failure.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 02:41 PM
  #14  
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It has quite a few chrome add-ons, also the air filter cover is askew. Worth checking that as there may be a non-stock filter behind it.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 06:16 PM
  #15  
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Default Y-pipe

The OEM Y-pipe ( rear header ) on my 2004 FLHRSIcracked and was replaced by PO with 2008 headers. I decided, as a precaution, to delete it with the FullSac True Dual Conversion Kit plus V-Twin Goodies heat shield. Less heat from rear header was a bonus.

3/4" floorboard extensions put my feet in more natural position and helped with extra airflow btw feet and motor.

Pre-2007 Heritage Classic handlebars and deep dish Sundowner seat made a huge difference. Those were used for $50 and $150 respectively from friends.

Look into the STA-BO 2 swingarm bushings.
 

Last edited by Grumbler; Feb 23, 2020 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 06:46 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Grumbler
The OEM Y-pipe ( rear header ) on my 2004 FLHRSIcracked and was replaced by PO with 2008 headers. I decided, as a precaution, to delete it with the FullSac True Dual Conversion Kit plus V-Twin Goodies heat shield. Less heat from rear header was a bonus.

3/4" floorboard extensions put my feet in more natural position and helped with extra airflow btw feet and motor.

Pre-2007 Heritage Classic handlebars and deep dish Sundowner seat made a huge difference. Those were used for $50 and $150 respectively from friends.

Look into the STA-BO 2 swingarm bushings.
sounds like a foreign language to me but I’ll look into what you just mentioned for mine 🤣🤣 thanks!!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 10:56 AM
  #17  
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I've known up to a dozen people with 88's and not one replaced their tensioners before 50k miles.

Yes check the tires and other fluids. Floorboard extensions are nice.......... and cheap. As GRBrown points out that AC is in a weird position
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 12:53 PM
  #18  
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a 12 year old bike with just 7k on the clock???
thank the nice man for his "recent service" and walk away (or ride)
Purchase a 2003 Touring model service manual
Replace EVERY fluid on the bike
Engine oil, Trans oil, primary lube, and Flush out the brake fluid....
They aren't worth trusting, and not a large hit on the wallet.
Check those cam tensioner.s. I've seen them last 75k, and I've seen them puke a motor at 10.
There seems to be mo rhyme or reason for their failing... but they have a spring pressing them against the chain.... each time the bike starts, they are dry and under pressure.
HD offers an update, and several after market companies do as well... some of the aftermarket stuff is better (IMO) than the H-D stuff.
I went with Fueling's, others go with gear drive....

Again... check the date code on those tires, odds are they are old... while they might look like new tires... I'd replace them....
MY life depends on good tires, I might look for a better price, but I won't skimp on quality with tires or brakes.
Michelin Commander II or the Dunlop American Elite, with fit your bike, and give you long life, and good handling (not sure if they come in white wall, if that's important to you)

Overall you've got a great bike, and should enjoy it for years , or at least until the bigger/better bug bites
 
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 05:39 PM
  #19  
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I guess it's a convenient swap, but your Sporty is probably worth a couple grand more than than that RK.

Otherwise good advice here, don't assume the service, do a full service and change out the tires if they are original.
 
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