124 RoadGlide Wakeup Call
Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Central Michigan
124 RoadGlide Wakeup Call
Looking for others who have installed the S&S 124.
Ive decided to breath a little life into my 2012 RoadGlide. Pulling the 103 and have ordered an S&S T Series 124 CI Low compression. THis is becoming a popular upgrade and I am looking forward to getting it dialed in.
Two ways of running the oil to the engine, the line kit, or drilling the cases to clone the HD Factory install.
Has anyone drilled, and were there any issues?
Any feed back would be appreciated, thanks,
Doug
Ive decided to breath a little life into my 2012 RoadGlide. Pulling the 103 and have ordered an S&S T Series 124 CI Low compression. THis is becoming a popular upgrade and I am looking forward to getting it dialed in.
Two ways of running the oil to the engine, the line kit, or drilling the cases to clone the HD Factory install.
Has anyone drilled, and were there any issues?
Any feed back would be appreciated, thanks,
Doug
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Hi Doug, I have an S&S engine in my old Evo, so can't help in your case - except to suggest you talk to S&S themselves and ask for their recommendation. That's a lot of money to burn by getting things wrong!
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 130
From: Now Western TN
Hi Doug, I did exactly what you are doing. We ordered the 124LC in SE cases, so no oil lines and no drilling. I know at one time they stopped selling them because of some legal thing I think, but I thought that was before I bought mine. Have you asked them if they still sell these with the SE cases?
I also ended up going with the following:
HPI 58mm Throttle Body
HPI 5.3g injectors
Ultarcool oil cooler
Barnet extra plate kevlar clutch pack
Things I had and kept:
Aim VPC
Dragos Dragula 2-1 exhaust
BTW...what part of MI? I grew up in Holly, still lots of relatives all around there
I also ended up going with the following:
HPI 58mm Throttle Body
HPI 5.3g injectors
Ultarcool oil cooler
Barnet extra plate kevlar clutch pack
Things I had and kept:
Aim VPC
Dragos Dragula 2-1 exhaust
BTW...what part of MI? I grew up in Holly, still lots of relatives all around there
Last edited by Bowhunter61; Mar 3, 2020 at 08:12 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
I have the Fuel Moto 124", which is their version of the S&S 124.
Mine is installed with the S&S cases, and the external oil lines. I had concerns about this, but they turned out to be a non-issue. The oil lines are completely hidden from view behind the primary chaincase housing.
It's a great engine too - pulls like a freight train.
Mine is installed with the S&S cases, and the external oil lines. I had concerns about this, but they turned out to be a non-issue. The oil lines are completely hidden from view behind the primary chaincase housing.
It's a great engine too - pulls like a freight train.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,247
From: San Diego, CA
I too have the FuelMoto 124" Street Outlaw S&S engine ..... I was going to order the engine, install myself, use the Vulcan kit to drill the cases, and then find a local tuner...
During my research, there were many people who have drilled the cases with the Vulcan kit and have had no issues... But if you read the S&S 124" engine literature, they will only warranty the engine if installed with the S&S oil line kit... so if warranty is important to you, you need to use the oil line kit..
I ended up having FuelMoto install & tune the engine because I wanted the warranty and couldn't find a tuner I trusted locally... FuelMoto did a good job on the install, and Jaime did a great job on the tune.... Their S&S engine with their head work really makes my Ultra Classic a very fun bike to ride.....!
FuelMoto did a good job with the oil line install. The oil lines are up and out of the way, but it appears the tech forgot to use sealant on the oil line fittings to the oil pan, as required in the S&S oil line kit instructions..... now one of the fittings is weeping oil. Not bad enough at this point that I'm going to pull the entire primary to remove & seal the fittings, but I am keeping my eyes on it... and because of my OCD, it bothers me some...
The point being that any external hose and/or fitting is a potential leak..... I've yet to read or hear of anyone having any oil leak/pressure issues who used the Vulcan kit to drill the cases and let the engine move oil as designed by the MoCo.... Kind of wish I done the Vulcan kit now....
By the way, the only reason S&S didn't drill the cases is due to patents by the MoCo.... which I believe expired last year... doubt they'll change their TC cases now with the M8 out and about
During my research, there were many people who have drilled the cases with the Vulcan kit and have had no issues... But if you read the S&S 124" engine literature, they will only warranty the engine if installed with the S&S oil line kit... so if warranty is important to you, you need to use the oil line kit..
I ended up having FuelMoto install & tune the engine because I wanted the warranty and couldn't find a tuner I trusted locally... FuelMoto did a good job on the install, and Jaime did a great job on the tune.... Their S&S engine with their head work really makes my Ultra Classic a very fun bike to ride.....!
FuelMoto did a good job with the oil line install. The oil lines are up and out of the way, but it appears the tech forgot to use sealant on the oil line fittings to the oil pan, as required in the S&S oil line kit instructions..... now one of the fittings is weeping oil. Not bad enough at this point that I'm going to pull the entire primary to remove & seal the fittings, but I am keeping my eyes on it... and because of my OCD, it bothers me some...
The point being that any external hose and/or fitting is a potential leak..... I've yet to read or hear of anyone having any oil leak/pressure issues who used the Vulcan kit to drill the cases and let the engine move oil as designed by the MoCo.... Kind of wish I done the Vulcan kit now....
By the way, the only reason S&S didn't drill the cases is due to patents by the MoCo.... which I believe expired last year... doubt they'll change their TC cases now with the M8 out and about
Last edited by hattitude; Mar 3, 2020 at 07:35 PM.
Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Central Michigan
I’ve ordered the the VulcanWorks Jig, gonna roll the dice on the warranty for the very reasons you have stated. I really appreciate your feedback, wish I could find someone on the site that has performed the upgrade themselves for a few stupid questions.
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks,
Doug
Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Central Michigan
High Speed Beef population control
Hi Doug, I did exactly what you are doing. We ordered the 124LC in SE cases, so no oil lines and no drilling. I know at one time they stopped selling them because of some legal thing I think, but I thought that was before I bought mine. Have you asked them if they still sell these with the SE cases?
I also ended up going with the following:
HPI 58mm Throttle Body
HPI 5.3g injectors
Ultarcool oil cooler
Barnet extra plate kevlar clutch pack
Things I had and kept:
Aim VPC
Dragos Dragula 2-1 exhaust
BTW...what part of MI? I grew up in Holly, still lots of relatives all around there
I also ended up going with the following:
HPI 58mm Throttle Body
HPI 5.3g injectors
Ultarcool oil cooler
Barnet extra plate kevlar clutch pack
Things I had and kept:
Aim VPC
Dragos Dragula 2-1 exhaust
BTW...what part of MI? I grew up in Holly, still lots of relatives all around there
Sounds like you have pretty much what Im building and it has me looking forward to Spring even more than normal. Ive already received my new S&as, apparently the HD Cases are no longer available, I really want to avoid the oil lines, so Im rolling the Dice on the warranty, ordered the VulcanWorks Jig and trying to learn all I can as I collect parts n piece s.
I live about 1.5 hrs north of your old stomping grounds in Gladwin and I think we share additional interests as well. I enjoy the fact that I can harvest High Speed Beef In the back yard. Ive learned to do my part by reducing the population in the woods rather than on the Blacktop, been there done that years ago on a Street Bike at 80 mph, and I can tell you, when you know you are going to die, everything goes in Slow Motion and I remember it vividly, even how delicious the little **** was with sautéed onions.
I appreciate your your response and keeping my fingers crossed that my pile of parts will assemble into something resembling a RoadGlide and Im looking forward to getting it running and dialed in. Got some great road trips planned with my buddies in May so Im hoping it all comes together.
Hoping i I can find someone that has had experience with the Vulcan Works Jig n Install. 8 appreciate your input and good luck to you on the roadways and the forests.
Doug
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,247
From: San Diego, CA
I asked about using the Vulcan drill kit on Harley Tech Talk forum, here are a couple answers I got;
" The Vulcan fixture to drill the S&S T2 cases works great.
You just have to remove the cam plate and cams and I would suggest taping everything up real good inside the cam chest cavity so the shaving don't get into anything. Steve @ GMR posted a video awhile back of him using the Vulcan fixture."
"I've done several. No need to remove anything in the engine.
Slow and easy with grease on the bit. Pull bit out and clean. re-grease. The key to the whole deal is to put a metal rod in the S&S hole on the bottom of the case up till it stops. When the bit hits the rod, pull the rod out, grease the bit, and use a shop vac on the bottom of the case as a back up. You'll drill just a short distance more.
The passage you hit will not be round. Also, you'll be surprised how far you need to drill in before making contact on the rod.
John"
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Thread Starter
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Stage IV
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
From: Central Michigan
Steve @ GMR Performance in Fort Worth, Texas has done many 124" S&S crate engine installs and tunes... he has also used the Vulcan jig to drill the cases many times, maybe give him a call, or you can search for his youtube video on drilling the cases with the Vulcan jig.
I asked about using the Vulcan drill kit on Harley Tech Talk forum, here are a couple answers I got;
" The Vulcan fixture to drill the S&S T2 cases works great. You just have to remove the cam plate and cams and I would suggest taping everything up real good inside the cam chest cavity so the shaving don't get into anything.
Steve @ GMR posted a video awhile back of him using the Vulcan fixture."
"I've done several. No need to remove anything in the engine.
Slow and easy with grease on the bit. Pull bit out and clean. re-grease. The key to the whole deal is to put a metal rod in the S&S hole on the bottom of the case up till it stops. When the bit hits the rod, pull the rod out, grease the bit, and use a shop vac on the bottom of the case as a back up. You'll drill just a short distance more.
The passage you hit will not be round. Also, you'll be surprised how far you need to drill in before making contact on the rod.
John"
I asked about using the Vulcan drill kit on Harley Tech Talk forum, here are a couple answers I got;
" The Vulcan fixture to drill the S&S T2 cases works great.
You just have to remove the cam plate and cams and I would suggest taping everything up real good inside the cam chest cavity so the shaving don't get into anything. Steve @ GMR posted a video awhile back of him using the Vulcan fixture."
"I've done several. No need to remove anything in the engine.
Slow and easy with grease on the bit. Pull bit out and clean. re-grease. The key to the whole deal is to put a metal rod in the S&S hole on the bottom of the case up till it stops. When the bit hits the rod, pull the rod out, grease the bit, and use a shop vac on the bottom of the case as a back up. You'll drill just a short distance more.
The passage you hit will not be round. Also, you'll be surprised how far you need to drill in before making contact on the rod.
John"
thank you for the information. I am waiting for the VulcanWorks Jig and am anxious to get the block drilled. I have found emails on both methods, removal and not and I am still assessing as to what method I will use, but I think I will probably try the slow with inserted metal rod method.
Thanks again for your feedback.
Doug