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I need to replace the rear tire on my '18 Road King. I plan on removing it at home (I've done this before on my Dyna) and bring it to CycleGear for them to mount the rubber. On my Dyna I had clear access to the rear axel since my pipes were short. After watching a few videos on YouTube and FixMyHog, I have seen folks remove the mufflers from the touring models and some even remove the bag support or at least loosen it. I have also seen some just remove the rear shock bolt and jack the rear up/down to get access to slide the axel out.
I am looking for feedback on which is the "easier" method. From my perspective, removing the shock bolt seems easier but I wanted to get some feedback from anyone who has done this before I start. If it makes any difference I have an '18 Road King with V&H Titan 450's. I also have a table lift and scissor jack.
I'm thinking you can but that's why I wanted to pose the question, to see if anyone has experience with this method. In one video the guy does the initial torque on the axle nut and then attaches the left shock ( just a few threads) and uses a box wrench on the axle to adjust the belt. He then does the final torque on the nut on the right side.
In the video below the guy just explains it so I am assuming it can all be done with the shocks unbolted.
yep, that video is the easiest way if you have a jack like that. belt tension will be a bit of trial and error tough, maybe mark where it was before undoing the big nut.
If you believe HD, the muffler clamps are a one and done item. I've always marked the adjustment cams and removed the lower shock bolts on my bikes to get access to the axle nuts when I'm changing rear tires.
Just FYI, I removed the rear wheel yesterday by removing the lower shock bolt. It was pretty simple and worked great. Once I have the new rubber put on I'll put it all back together again. I did record the process but the video is very dark. I'll see if I can lighten it up and trim it down and eventually share it. Hopefully, it goes back together just as easily.
Just thought I would mention , I have never had to remove the shock bolts to remove the axle . I have the same set up as you do , remove the slip-ons and then raise the scissor jack so the wheel is off the ground , the axle should clear the saddlebag rail with no issue , glad you got it done though , what's one more step . When you put the wheel back on , remember to clean up the axle and put some anti seize on it . Install the wheel while off the ground , you'll notice some free play at the axle / swing arm , make sure the axle is resting on the swing arm on both sides . Not sure if you have a Manual or not , but torque your axle nut to 20 ft lbs , then make your final adjustment for alignment / tension .
Obviously , the cam on the left side is welded to the axle so you'll want to adjust the tension on that side first . The cam on the ride side kinda fits loosely in the axle so you can use a flat punch / screwdriver and a small hammer to tap the cam to get the alignment just right . If your using a box wrench to hold the left side while torquing the right , make sure it doesn't move , or it'll throw everything out of alignment . I've had to re torque it more the once just to get it perfect .
I made a tool out of 5/16 steel rod that goes from the swing arm bolts to the center of the axle to measure alignment , you could use a coat hanger , bent at the swing arm side and put a peace of tape on the axle side to mark your center , then check both sides when you torque it down .
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