Help troubleshooting front end shake
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
If the rotor drag was enough it might create what you describe, I think
If this was my bike I would find an area of road (away from traffic) that the shake can be duplicated easily.
Unbolt the calipers and strap them up and outta the way.
Test ride and see if the shake is gone.
This may sound crazy to ya but then I have ridden bikes with no front brake at all in the past.
Good luck WP
If this was my bike I would find an area of road (away from traffic) that the shake can be duplicated easily.
Unbolt the calipers and strap them up and outta the way.
Test ride and see if the shake is gone.
This may sound crazy to ya but then I have ridden bikes with no front brake at all in the past.
Good luck WP
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,787
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Not to insult your capability but when you put your axle in the forks did you torque the axle nut before you tighten the lower fork/axle pinch bolts? If you tightened the pinch bolts first, your fork leg could be getting pulled over when the axle nut is torqued down. In short the fork tubes aren't parallel and the right fork tube is being pulled over. I would loosen the axle pinch bolts and maybe the pull in the fork tube will relax.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: USA
Ok.
Brake rotors can cause pulsing when braking, but not a wobble.
In the one picture, it looks like theres a gap between the fork leg and the axle spacer. This would allow the wheel to move back and forth. While that could cause wiggling, I dont see how or why it would be limited like what youre experiencing though.
Tires can cause wiggles. But that is usually speed related. Newly mounted tires can be not fully seated into the rim, creating a pulsing, though not typically a wiggle.
Wiggling, at about 30-50 mph, hands off the bars, usually decelerating, are usually a geometry issue. Sometimes a steering damper can help, The usual fix is to simply leave a hand on the bars. It takes very little damping to keep it from happening. It was very common on bikes some years ago.
However, this wiggling usually is associated with steeper steering and less wheel track. Going with a larger wheel (I take it thats what youve done?) takes this in the opposite direction.
You may be able to dampen it simply by tightening the steering head.
Brake rotors can cause pulsing when braking, but not a wobble.
In the one picture, it looks like theres a gap between the fork leg and the axle spacer. This would allow the wheel to move back and forth. While that could cause wiggling, I dont see how or why it would be limited like what youre experiencing though.
Tires can cause wiggles. But that is usually speed related. Newly mounted tires can be not fully seated into the rim, creating a pulsing, though not typically a wiggle.
Wiggling, at about 30-50 mph, hands off the bars, usually decelerating, are usually a geometry issue. Sometimes a steering damper can help, The usual fix is to simply leave a hand on the bars. It takes very little damping to keep it from happening. It was very common on bikes some years ago.
However, this wiggling usually is associated with steeper steering and less wheel track. Going with a larger wheel (I take it thats what youve done?) takes this in the opposite direction.
You may be able to dampen it simply by tightening the steering head.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
Not to insult your capability but when you put your axle in the forks did you torque the axle nut before you tighten the lower fork/axle pinch bolts? If you tightened the pinch bolts first, your fork leg could be getting pulled over when the axle nut is torqued down. In short the fork tubes aren't parallel and the right fork tube is being pulled over. I would loosen the axle pinch bolts and maybe the pull in the fork tube will relax.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
Ok.
Brake rotors can cause pulsing when braking, but not a wobble.
In the one picture, it looks like theres a gap between the fork leg and the axle spacer. This would allow the wheel to move back and forth. While that could cause wiggling, I dont see how or why it would be limited like what youre experiencing though.
Tires can cause wiggles. But that is usually speed related. Newly mounted tires can be not fully seated into the rim, creating a pulsing, though not typically a wiggle.
Wiggling, at about 30-50 mph, hands off the bars, usually decelerating, are usually a geometry issue. Sometimes a steering damper can help, The usual fix is to simply leave a hand on the bars. It takes very little damping to keep it from happening. It was very common on bikes some years ago.
However, this wiggling usually is associated with steeper steering and less wheel track. Going with a larger wheel (I take it thats what youve done?) takes this in the opposite direction.
You may be able to dampen it simply by tightening the steering head.
Brake rotors can cause pulsing when braking, but not a wobble.
In the one picture, it looks like theres a gap between the fork leg and the axle spacer. This would allow the wheel to move back and forth. While that could cause wiggling, I dont see how or why it would be limited like what youre experiencing though.
Tires can cause wiggles. But that is usually speed related. Newly mounted tires can be not fully seated into the rim, creating a pulsing, though not typically a wiggle.
Wiggling, at about 30-50 mph, hands off the bars, usually decelerating, are usually a geometry issue. Sometimes a steering damper can help, The usual fix is to simply leave a hand on the bars. It takes very little damping to keep it from happening. It was very common on bikes some years ago.
However, this wiggling usually is associated with steeper steering and less wheel track. Going with a larger wheel (I take it thats what youve done?) takes this in the opposite direction.
You may be able to dampen it simply by tightening the steering head.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
all input points to the 16-19 wheels using the same 130 width tire in whatever sidewalk height it comes in have basically the same height. Maybe a few mm off. Hopefully thats not enough to change the geometry enough to cause shake. I could keep my hands on the bars but I would like to determine the root cause before I consign myself to that fate.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
The Knuckle that came off was ABS and the Enforcer that went on had ABS bearings put in. No one I talked to leading up to this, even at the dealer brought up a different spacer for the swap. As long as the axle diameter was the same and the correct bearings were used I was told it was a go. Ill see if there is a spacer I can use.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
Update:
I removed the wheel to compare spacing from outside bearing face to outside bearing face. Both 165mm.
then I remounted as per manual. This time using a rubber mallet to drive the axle through the forks instead of wiggle and twist. Checked the spacing with the pinch clamp loose and the axle nut hand tight. This time it was even at 74mm from inside rotor face to outside of fork leg. Also measure the wheel and it was centered in the fork legs. Then mounted the calipers and this time they were centered on the rotors vs 1-1.5mm off on the right last time.
So far so good but its been storming so cant test ride it yet. Even if it still shakes Ill just deal with it until its time to get new pads. Then Ill get new rotors too.
I removed the wheel to compare spacing from outside bearing face to outside bearing face. Both 165mm.
then I remounted as per manual. This time using a rubber mallet to drive the axle through the forks instead of wiggle and twist. Checked the spacing with the pinch clamp loose and the axle nut hand tight. This time it was even at 74mm from inside rotor face to outside of fork leg. Also measure the wheel and it was centered in the fork legs. Then mounted the calipers and this time they were centered on the rotors vs 1-1.5mm off on the right last time.
So far so good but its been storming so cant test ride it yet. Even if it still shakes Ill just deal with it until its time to get new pads. Then Ill get new rotors too.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 29
From: Oahu, Hawaii
Update: The pulse under braking finally showed itself. Talked with the guy I bought the rotors from and he is sending me a new one. Right now this all points to the right side rotor being warped, hopefully this replacement rotor will solve the issues.
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