Aloha,

I have a 2011 RGU. Went from the 17” knuckle to a 19” enforcer, brand new tire, second hand polished rotors, used pads (that were on the bike). As soon as I went to this combo I had a tire shake at around 40-45mph when I let go of the bars. Below is the steps I’ve done so far

1. I uninstalled and reinstall everything in case I missed something. No change.
2. Then I went and got the wheel balanced, I skipped that purely for cosmetics. No change.
3. I then noticed a gap between the spacer and fork leg that wasn’t there when I had the stock wheel on. I installed the stock wheel again just to be sure. Pic is below. I’ve read that this shouldn’t be an issue and is more or less a common thing. The wheel sits solidly without any play.
4. I checked the rotors and it looks like one side has a slight wave. If I unbolt that caliper the wheel spins more freely. I also notice the same side rotor is off center in the caliper. It’s not the direction a shim would help, I would have to file down the mounting points on the caliper by a millimeter or 2. The other side is centered.
5. I measured fork to rotor and it’s even down to the millimeter. If I leave the calipers loose then the wheel spins more freely.

I wanted to run things past the forum before I go out and buy a new set of Lyndall crown rotors and pads for $700.

Is the gap at the spacer ok? I can pull it in by seating the spacer against the leg and tightening the clamp side before the axle side. I also read that is the wrong technique. Conversely I can also try to pull the clamp side leg a little to center the caliper on the rotor. It doesn’t seem right to have to suck in or pull out the fork legs to install this properly.

Is the rotor being off center on one side caliper and the wave in the same caliper the likely cause? I don’t want to file it before I try all other options. I could go with a new set of rotors and pads to see if the new stuff will sit center and then file if needed.

Last but not least, I am using the oem spacers from my 2011 to mount this 2015ish enforcer wheel. Is that proper? The bike has abs and the wheel has the correct bearings which are brand new and installed properly.

Anything I may have missed? Sorry for the long post



I also have a vid that shows the right side rotor slightly warped vs the left side

 

You had the old wheel with the old tire, no problem.

Installed new wheel with new tire, different rotors and brake pads, got shake.

reinstalled old wheel with old tire (and old brake pads?). Did the shake go away when you did this?

 

If you have a warped rotor, depending on how bad, you would only feel it when the brake is applied. But, as you stated, it is warped enough that it is slowing down the wheel when it rotates then I would start there. As for the gap with the spacer, there shouldn't be any gaps, that's what the spacer is for it should rest up next to the step on the axle. As long as the hub on the new wheel is the same width as the hub on the wheel you took off, everything should fit up tight. If the hubs are the same, then I would leave the lower fork clamp loose then snug up the axle to pull everything together, than snug up the lower fork clamp, then torque the axle bolt and then the lower clamp. Then check to make sure the caliper is centered on the rotor, of course you will need straight true rotors to do this.

One thing, make sure to use the rotor from the year bike you are putting the wheels on as they have changed the diameter of the rotors over the years.

I have put many different wheels on bikes from many different years and as long as the hub width was the same I have never had to cut custom spacers or shim the calipers. When the hubs are different then it's a whole new ball game. You would have to center the wheel, shim the caliper to center on the rotor then measure for your wheel spacers

 

You're putting a 2015 wheel on a 2011 bike. That wheel was designed for 49mm forks, so you'll need to have the proper spacers for it, and your stock ones aren't it.

 

yes. No shake with the old wheel.

 

You changed the geometry of the bike. Keep your hands on the bars and you'll be fine.

 

the Encorcer wheel fits from 08-2020, direct fit using the same spacers, rotors to fit the Enforcer wheel will match the calipers on the 2011RGU, ABS bearings installed. I researched before purchasing and everything points to a direct swap. I am going to try to loosen up everything and start with torquing the calipers first, then checking for centering. Although I am centered from rotor to fork from my measurements.

I do not feel any pulse when applying the brakes, only shake is when I let go of the bars.

 

Been running 19" enforcer on a 2011 RKC with abs for 5 years. Fits perfect using 2011 spacers. Double check, triple check.., to make sure they installed the correct bearing. The abs bearing is wider and could explain the gap you mentioned.

 

If the rotor drag was enough it might create what you describe, I think
If this was my bike I would find an area of road (away from traffic) that the shake can be duplicated easily.
Unbolt the calipers and strap them up and outta the way.
Test ride and see if the shake is gone.
This may sound crazy to ya but then I have ridden bikes with no front brake at all in the past.
Good luck WP

 

The ABS bearing is on the left side and different color from the regular bearing. I think that one is correct. It’s the right side that has me concerned. The stock wheel looks like the bearing is sticking out a little bit vs flush with the Enforcer one. I will be checking again tonight.