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2007 Road Glide Charging Issue

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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 11:18 AM
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Default 2007 Road Glide Charging Issue

Hello,

I am seeking advice on either stock replacement of the stator/rotor, charging system (voltage regulator, stator/rotor), or upgrade the charging system. If upgrade, what are some of the recommendations?

My '07 Road glide developed a charging (lack of) issue. I followed the '07 HD Touring Electrical Diagnostic Manual trouble shooting information starting on page 1-16. Everything checked out until I did the AC output check on page 1-22, figure 1-18. Testing across two stator connector socket combinations yielded over 40v AC at 2000 rpm. One test yielded 8v AC at 2000 rpm. The bike is basically stock with the addition of a Soundz system and connectors for Gerbings (HD) heated gear (jacket, pants, gloves, socks circa 2009).

Thank you for your time.

Chuck
 
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 07:36 PM
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When my brothers went out we took off the derby cover and the smell comin from primary was gawd awful. You will know in a hurry if your stator is the problem which based on your voltage reading it sounds like it is. If you haven't had any issue with keeping a charge before it went out i would just buy a stock replacement or check out Dennis Kirk if you are looking for a higher amp stator.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 08:14 PM
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Cycle Electric has some pretty good stuff. I bought their stator and regulator for my '06 and never had any issues after that.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 12:39 AM
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Ditto the Cycle Electric stuff. I've installed the CE stator, and regulator, and they do what they're supposed to do, just fine. I get a slightly higher voltage reading than the stock stuff, but just a little.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 12:26 PM
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+1 with Cycle Electric parts.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 11:36 AM
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Default 2007 Road Glide Charging Issue

Thank you for all of the comments and suggestions. After speaking with Steve Mihali of Mihali Cycles in Riverside CA, from his experience he suggested either the Harley or Cycle Electric stator. I went with the Harley stator. Haven't finished but here are a few pictures from the job so far. It appears one of the winding spokes burned out. I purchased the Hartland Products primary drive locking bar 5.950" long which really helped in removing and replacing the bolt holding the drive sprocket. The Harley service manual is a big help. The last time the stator was replaced was in August 2010 with about 60K on the odometer with a Harley stator. There is almost 165K on the odometer now.
Thanks again

I used a large zip tie to hold the compression on the automatic chain tensioner.

There are two spacers on the back of the tensioner.

Hartland Products primary drive locking bar 5.950" long. In position for loosening drive sprocket bolt. Reverse position to tighten bolt.

Burned spoke windings.

New stator installed. Remember to use four (4) new stator bolts. Torx 27

 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 06:19 PM
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Don't know what you paid for that locking bar, but gotta be less that one from Jims. Good quality stuff, but way too expensive, mostly, IMHO. I went to the local blacksmith shop, ( yeah, I live where those things still exist), and bought a length of 1/8 inch angle, cut it to length, and rounded the ends a little. Works great. I'm into it for under 2 bucks, and a little time.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 02:48 AM
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you’re lucky... on the newer engines the whole primary needs to come off for that.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 10:27 AM
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Default All Finished

Greetings,

I completed the stator replacement job several weeks ago on my 2007 Road Glide. All's well; the bike is charging properly and running fine. Here are a few more pictures.

All my best to you all and safe riding and working on your Harleys!

Replacing the automatic tensioner bolts. I used blue Loctite on the threads. Don't forget the spacers between the tensioner and the primary case!

I followed the torque specs in the service manual.

Don't forget to remove the zip tie!

I installed the primary drain plug with a new O-ring.

I took a picture of the service manual page that had the tightening sequence for the primary cover. The page indicates where the four long screws go...
 
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 11:38 AM
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Nicely done, I also used a piece of bar stock to wedge between the comp & clutch basket, its not that hard job with the right tools.

rk classic.
 

Last edited by RK_Classic; Jan 4, 2021 at 11:57 AM.
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