Oil pressure
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 38
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From: GA
Oil pressure
I have a stock 2006 EGC TC88 EFI, new Cam chain tensioners with about 2500 miles on them. The bike has a little over 56k. It runs fine the Oil Pressure originally ran at 3-5psi at idle and 34psi at 2000rpm and up as it should. It recently started running at 32psi at cold start as it warms drops to about 20psi, at 2000rpms its at 32-34psi. Should I be concerned. It seems logical there would be an issue with such a change. If the pressure increases Im concerned of a restriction so the flow (volume) would be less even though pressure is up. I should add it does not go over 34psi at 2000rpm. I put a new Oil Sender on, the gauge needle moves the full range. Any valuable insight would be appreciated.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 487
Likes: 289
From: Northern MN
To me I dont see any issues. My old bike has high oil pressure from a cold start since the oil is thicker. Pressure drops quite a bit as it warms up.
It could be the new oil sending unit that has caused the idle pressure to show higher now. Did you change the oil and or type?
Tom
It could be the new oil sending unit that has caused the idle pressure to show higher now. Did you change the oil and or type?
Tom
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 38
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From: GA
To me I dont see any issues. My old bike has high oil pressure from a cold start since the oil is thicker. Pressure drops quite a bit as it warms up.
It could be the new oil sending unit that has caused the idle pressure to show higher now. Did you change the oil and or type?
Tom
It could be the new oil sending unit that has caused the idle pressure to show higher now. Did you change the oil and or type?
Tom
About 3-weeks ago I noticed at idle once warm (running temp) it was at 20psi which was unusual. I rode a couple of hundred miles "with no changes" it stayed at 20psi at idle, 32psi at 2000rpm. Since it was about time for an oil change I added seafoam to the crankcase to clean any build up (hopefully) but at 100 miles no changes in psi reading had taken place so I changed the Oil Sender Unit. At about 180 miles with it still reading 20psi at idle I then changed the oil. Today it still runs at 20psi at idle, 32-34 at 2000rpm.
It very well may not be an issue but it's a very different reading compared to what it was and there were no changes to explain it.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,183
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From: KMHT KFMY
Easiest diagnostic is replace the sender, I'd go there first... if that does not get you back to the normal reading then tear it down and replace the oil pump, all O rings, check the other parts while you are in there
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: GA
yeah, I've replaced the oil sender and also put a Oil Pressure Gauge in it to confirm the reading and it is accurate. I was thinking the the same thing as far as replacing the oil pump and cleaning and inspecting everything while at it.
thanks for the replies!
thanks for the replies!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,428
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From: Southeast
Not sure, but maybe whoever did the shoes installed a Baisley spring? I've heard/read about the pressure release having burrs which keep the pressure valve from seating correctly. PERHAPS- it finally seated?
Almost impossible to sort out over the 'net. But, I've never considered an increase in pressure as a negative. Within reason of course.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Almost impossible to sort out over the 'net. But, I've never considered an increase in pressure as a negative. Within reason of course.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: GA
Okay, I opened up the cam chest and removed the plate. The service manual suggest checking the pressure relief valve for being stuck in closed position which it was. I literally had to pry it out. Since I was at this point I chose to buy the Feuling 7090 OE+ hydraulic tensioner upgrade kit with the pump. The motor sounds fantastic, quiet! That said oil pressure is 40psi cold, at operating temp idle is 32psi, @ 2300 rpm riding it sits at about 45psi. Oil level is good, for the spring in GA I just changed to Lucas conventional 50wt. No check engine or oil light coming on so I guess its just ride and enjoy.
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: GA
This will be my final comment since I’m finished and all is good. What I want to leave with is that I was still uncertain of what to expect with the feuling cam plate and oil pump and chain tensioner upgrade so I contacted them and provided my info. I removed my oil sender and used my oil pressure gauge and my cold start up is 48-50psi, hot idle was 24psi, with sender installed at cruising around 2300rpms its at 45-50psi. I also checked my crankshaft runout while in there which was .0025.
Quote from Feuling: “We typically shoot for 50-60 psi at cold initial start up, 15-25 psi at a full hot idle, and 12-15 psi per 1000 RPMs once riding. Based off the oil pressures you provided I would say you have a good healthy engine and the pressures are what we would like to see.”
I’m pleased with the outcome, the bike runs great!
Quote from Feuling: “We typically shoot for 50-60 psi at cold initial start up, 15-25 psi at a full hot idle, and 12-15 psi per 1000 RPMs once riding. Based off the oil pressures you provided I would say you have a good healthy engine and the pressures are what we would like to see.”
I’m pleased with the outcome, the bike runs great!
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