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Rear Brake Over Heating
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2007
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From:
Rear Brake Over Heating
I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem.
I just purchased an 07 Street Glide. I had ridden it about 40 miles, when I went to use the rear brake I did not slow down and the pedal went all the way down past the floorboard!
Fortunately I was only a few miles from my dealers other location. They took the bike in immediately and found that the brakes had heated up and got so hot that it melted rubber and plastic items near it. They call HD, who said they have seen the problem before. They believe it is caused by too much brake fluid. The fluid heats up, which causes the brake to be applied, which in turn heats the fluid up even more.
Long story short, they are replacing all of the rear brakes components, cable, rotor, caliber, plus the rear tire, and the air hose to the rear shocks.
So, has anyone else had this happen to them? Was anything else damaged as a result of this? Is there anything else I need to look for before I ride again?
The dealer has been great by the way, very helpful. They called Harley and had an answer from them with in minutes.
They got the parts ordered before I left and hopefully on the way.
I just purchased an 07 Street Glide. I had ridden it about 40 miles, when I went to use the rear brake I did not slow down and the pedal went all the way down past the floorboard!
Fortunately I was only a few miles from my dealers other location. They took the bike in immediately and found that the brakes had heated up and got so hot that it melted rubber and plastic items near it. They call HD, who said they have seen the problem before. They believe it is caused by too much brake fluid. The fluid heats up, which causes the brake to be applied, which in turn heats the fluid up even more.
Long story short, they are replacing all of the rear brakes components, cable, rotor, caliber, plus the rear tire, and the air hose to the rear shocks.
So, has anyone else had this happen to them? Was anything else damaged as a result of this? Is there anything else I need to look for before I ride again?
The dealer has been great by the way, very helpful. They called Harley and had an answer from them with in minutes.
They got the parts ordered before I left and hopefully on the way.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa, Ok
RE: Rear Brake Over Heating
Ive seen it happen in cars. Quick lube place or customer would fill it up to the top of the reservoir, and when the customer would leave, as the brakes warmed up, the fluid expanded and had no where to go. Usually a light drag that develops to a more severe drag as it gets hotter. You just got the bike, so was whoever set it up, as far as brakes goes, factory I assume? Be glad there wasnt a fire!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,108
Likes: 9
From: Lincolnton, NC
RE: Rear Brake Over Heating
The dealer has been great by the way, very helpful. They called Harley and had an answer from them with in minutes.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 6
From: Omaha Nebraska
RE: Rear Brake Over Heating
ORIGINAL: aquaskiman
Reservoir to full can cause it, or a clogged bleed back hole in the rear master cyl can cause it also. George[sm=icon_cheers.gif]
Reservoir to full can cause it, or a clogged bleed back hole in the rear master cyl can cause it also. George[sm=icon_cheers.gif]
We used to have that problem with some of our road course race cars, itusually was a mis-adjustment of the brake master cyl's piston, it would not release far enough to allow the piston/cyl supply hole to vent expandingbrake fluid back onto the reservoir. I don't think they are adjustable on our bikes but there sure seems to be a difference from bike to bike as to how the piston travels.
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Banned
Joined: Jan 2007
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From:
RE: Rear Brake Over Heating
Not buying their explanation.
Yes you can overfill the reservoir, but all that will happen is make a mess.
Properly assembled and working disk brake system, the line from the M/C
to and including the Caliper is ALWAYS completely full of fluid (no air bubbles) and the pads NEVER touch the caliper in a non applied mode (I.E.: you're not braking). Thus NO HEAT IS DEVELOPED.
Fluid is pushed into the line and caliper from the M/C when you push down on the brake. Then the pads contacting the rotor create friction and heat thus causing you to slow down.
And yes the heat transfers to the caliper and thus to the fluid.
But the amount of braking and length of time to create damage you described would be astronomical!
Plus todays dot 4 fluid is almost boil proof.
In short, you better find another dealer to determine the real cause.
Because if your rear brake was stuck out that hard (1) you would of not been able take off with out really reving the engine, and every time you pulled clutch in you would of immediately slowed down as if you had deliberately applied brakes. At least until pads wore away.
(2) yes a clogged bleed back hole could cause this (not allowing fluid back to the M/C.
But over filling was NOT the main cause of this.
For some reason your pads stayed stuck out dragging on the rotor.
You Have or had a MECHANICAL problem causing this.
When repaired make certain pads pull away from the rotor and don't drag!!
Yes you can overfill the reservoir, but all that will happen is make a mess.
Properly assembled and working disk brake system, the line from the M/C
to and including the Caliper is ALWAYS completely full of fluid (no air bubbles) and the pads NEVER touch the caliper in a non applied mode (I.E.: you're not braking). Thus NO HEAT IS DEVELOPED.
Fluid is pushed into the line and caliper from the M/C when you push down on the brake. Then the pads contacting the rotor create friction and heat thus causing you to slow down.
And yes the heat transfers to the caliper and thus to the fluid.
But the amount of braking and length of time to create damage you described would be astronomical!
Plus todays dot 4 fluid is almost boil proof.
In short, you better find another dealer to determine the real cause.
Because if your rear brake was stuck out that hard (1) you would of not been able take off with out really reving the engine, and every time you pulled clutch in you would of immediately slowed down as if you had deliberately applied brakes. At least until pads wore away.
(2) yes a clogged bleed back hole could cause this (not allowing fluid back to the M/C.
But over filling was NOT the main cause of this.
For some reason your pads stayed stuck out dragging on the rotor.
You Have or had a MECHANICAL problem causing this.
When repaired make certain pads pull away from the rotor and don't drag!!
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2007
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From:
RE: Rear Brake Over Heating
It did cause some drag, at start up, and I noticed the bike would slowed down a couple of times when I let up on the throttle. At the time did not think brake. I had only ridden the bike around twenty miles, and was still getting use to the different tranny and engine sounds. It did pop the turkey baster up, which is the first thing the tech noticed. He figured there was no or too little fluid, but when he opened it, it was to the very top.
Whatever the cause they are replacing everything around the area, so the problem should be fixed. I was just wondering if anyone can think of other things I should check to make sure they were not damaged by the high heat. The backside of the right saddle bag near the brake is one thing I thought of.
Thanks
Whatever the cause they are replacing everything around the area, so the problem should be fixed. I was just wondering if anyone can think of other things I should check to make sure they were not damaged by the high heat. The backside of the right saddle bag near the brake is one thing I thought of.
Thanks
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,391
Likes: 10
From:
RE: Rear Brake Over Heating
You might check to make sure nothing else was over filled, or not filled at all. Better to know now, than when on the road. I use to drive 18 wheelers (although, not for long). They have something called brake fade. Using to much brake, will cause brake failure. They are air brakes, so not the same as your situation, but I could see how the fluid heating up, and not having a escape of the steam/gases could cause the brake to engage, causing them to heat up even more. Hope all turns out good.