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Throttle by wire issues

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Old Jul 19, 2021 | 08:04 AM
  #11  
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.https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...e-problem.html
i had a chaffed wire problem on a bike that the bars were never modified you can check it out here
 

Last edited by Low budget Dan; Jul 19, 2021 at 08:46 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2021 | 01:38 PM
  #12  
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I have an 09 Ultra Classic and I know this problem.
First aid: What cncmike recommended (post #10) - helped me to get home.
Then as soon as possible: Recommendation of dawg - changing the pins to the ones listed in the bulletin.
Worked like a charm.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 07:50 PM
  #13  
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[QUOTE=phil48315;20060024]My 2011 went into limp mode when the key FOB battery was weak

I did remove the ECM and put a little dielectric grease on the plug, also did the plug behind the air cleaner! Everything was clean and dry so I have no idea why this happened.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions...
 
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Old Jul 22, 2021 | 08:07 PM
  #14  
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[QUOTE=Brent09;20070017]
Originally Posted by phil48315
My 2011 went into limp mode when the key FOB battery was weak
I did remove the ECM and put a little dielectric grease on the plug, also did the plug behind the air cleaner! Everything was clean and dry so I have no idea why this happened.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions...
So your problem is solved now?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2021 | 02:38 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Brent09
Sorry forgot the important stuff

2009 Ultra Classic
I have a 2009 FLHTCU Ultra Classic. When I changed grips my bike it did the same thing at 20k miles. I just jammed the grip in hard and tightened up the hardware. It worked for a few thousand miles and then it did it again. I replaced the cable in the handle bar. It was pretty easy for me. I have 61k miles now and still good to go.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2021 | 06:23 PM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=kel03;20070061]
Originally Posted by Brent09

So your problem is solved now?
Yes, it is good to go...rode it to work all week with my fingers crossed!! Can not honestly say what fixed it...nothing was wet or had any corrosion on it?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2021 | 06:29 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by phil48315
My 2011 went into limp mode when the key FOB battery was weak.
Not while the bike is running.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 09:27 AM
  #18  
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[QUOTE=Brent09;20070017]
Originally Posted by phil48315
My 2011 went into limp mode when the key FOB battery was weak

I did remove the ECM and put a little dielectric grease on the plug, also did the plug behind the air cleaner! Everything was clean and dry so I have no idea why this happened.

.
Sometimes just the scraping of the connectors against each other as you unplug and plug it back in are enough to clean them and reseat the connection. The dielectric grease helps keep them clean. Also the fretting in the plug behind the air cleaner is between the wire and the pins in the plug. Wiggling them make remake the connection but the fretting isn't going to stop. At least if it happens again, you will know exactly were to start looking but I would recommend a proper repair at the plug.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 09:50 AM
  #19  
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Just happened to my 09 ultra classic as well. Was fine for 900 miles & happened around town in Colorado Springs. Unplugging & replugging the TPS has temporarily fixed it. It was also outside in the rain for 2 nights, as an Arizona bike I don't think it liked that very much.
This forum was a great help getting me rolling again along side I-25. Being in limp mode on an interstate wasn't much fun!!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 06:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dawg
Looks ok and is ok could be two different things. Was happening to my 08 and I changed the pins to the ones listed in the bulletin and it worked for me. Also check wiring for kinks, breaks, chafes, etc. I’ve seen where the throttle body had to be changed out as a last resort too.
Can you say anything about accessing the wires at the ECM??? I've gotta snip the zip-tie at the connector and use a new zip tie putting things back together? Or is that fancier than a regular zip-tie that can be disconnected without destroying it?
Then how to I pull apart the plastic connector to get access the wires as they are crimped to the pins and slide into the connector? Manual isn't clear, and it doesn't look obvious looking at it. (all these connector types it's not always obvious and sometimes I end up breaking one b4 realizing how I was supposed to do it)

Or maybe have you seen a diagram that shows exactly where each color wire goes into the connector? So that without taking it apart I can use a voltmeter to test the connections at both ends of the wires?
(I have the ship manual, and am looking at the diagrams, but I don't see anything telling where each wire goes into the ECM connector. I see pin #'s, but not where each pin number physically goes into the ECM connector)
 
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