A good lifter = Comp Cams 850-4, these are just as good as many lifters out there & the price is where it should be....! I am currently doing an 02 RK classic - started out as check the tensioner shoes as they are original, 28k +/- well...... in process of changing the shoes, staying with basically whats in there (stock) but am doing the smith Bros. adjustables for future possibilities???? I have used all makes of lifters & when a customer asks for a specific one I always ask why & the replies are at times laughable, i can buy 16 lifters for a small block chevy for the same amount as 4 -for a HD & there really is no difference, I have seen cut aways and the only lifter that has a "significant" difference are the Wood night prowler multi directionals. good luck on your build.

 

I ran my stock 'B' OEM lifters to 83,000 miles on my 95" Stage II, '00 Road Glide (That's when the tensioner pads finally split apart.) I ran Comp Cams 850-4's with adjustable pushrods from that point on up to 170,000 miles just this past summer (when I finally donated the bike to a good cause.) I also ran the pricey lifters at different times over the years, and at least for the way I ride(?) I have yet to notice a difference between the big buck units and the 'Chevy' lifters..

 

I might keep the OE,,,but,,, still looking,, found a set new in the box JIMS lifters twin cam 99-17 std size tappet powerglide 2 twincam from 2015, down to 350 00 but still pricy for me . Sent email to Topline Auto/Hylift Johnson. They seem to have 5 models that could work but narrowed down to 3,. Stock repl,,,,.002 over sized,, or,, Slow leak down,, waiting till after the hoilday for a reply on pricing etc. If I don't keep the OE, which of these would be a likely best choice? I'll also check the site you listed too.
Thanks

 

For your comparison, Larry's Motorcycle & Machine sells the Hylift Johnsons:

Stock replacement (STD) is the 2313 @ $149 per set of 4.

Slow leak down is the 2313S @ $169 per set of 4

Slow leak down w/pin oiling: is the 2313SE @ $199 per set of 4.

You can also get each lifter type with travel limiters installed if you desire @ $15 more per set of 4. Just add an "L" to the end of the model number: 2313L, 2313SL, or 2313SEL...

 

I gottts a question? In looking at the HLJ from the advertisement given earlier in this post it gave another choice to review, B2313 .002. curious to know how the extra .002 "Block Saver" works to save the block. does it just help with limiting or eliminating tappet rotation? I was reading somewhere that larger pin sizes from .002-,006 were recomended for another make of tappet in question I was reading about. Would that larger pin size not do the same thing as buying an "over stock size" lifter, by just limiting most to all chance of rotation of the lifter to keep the lifter wheel rolling straight and in line with the cams? As to the travel limiters, the "S" type is supposed to act somewhat more like a solid lifter. Don't think I'll need the "S" type with the "L" added in for my needs. So If I do change out the lifters would likely go with the 2313SE. Again just wondering about the .002 over size lifter as opposed to the oversized pin,

 

For the oversized lifter...

Sometimes when dealing with the lifters, if one goes bad, it can score the lifter bore in the lower case....

There are only two ways to fix that:

1) Buy a new engine case (or engine block)

2) If the damage isn't too bad, bore out the lifter bores .002" and use oversized lifters.... thus they are "block savers"...

Do you suspect damage to your lifter bores? If not, no need to even consider an oversized lifter...

The oversized pin is an entirely different part, with an entirely different purpose... I've always used the OEM pins with any lifter I've used, ie: Hylift Johnson, and S&S Premiums. If a lifter I was considering, required the use of an oversized pin to stop rotation... I wouldn't use it..

Whether or not to use travel limiters in lifters, can be a contentious debate... IMHO, there are times when they would be beneficial, but in a street bike with minor, to mid level mods, I personally don't believe they are necessary. I wouldn't argue against them however, if one understood how to properly adjust them and wanted to use them..



There is more to a lifter than just fitting into the hole... there can be many differences...

Oil flow is one important difference. The lifters in a Harley are the jump off point for all oil going up into the heads to lubricate the rocker arms... They are often called the secondary oil filters for that reason... plug one up or choose one with slow oil flow, and the rockers will suffer...

There are differences in the internal piston/passages/springs, that decide how easy they may leak down and/or pump up.

There are differences in the roller pins at the bottom, where the rollers ride on the cams, and how they are oiled..

I don't use off brand lifters, or popular lifters that are designed for another application... I use lifters designed for a Harley V-twin engine.... period...

I'm not a tech, nor do I work on hundreds of bikes.... On the 5 bikes I've done cam chest work on, I've used S&S premiums (their older style lifter made in the USA) and most recently, the Hylift Johnson's from WFO Larry.... I will not use GM small block V8 lifters, nor other brands for other applications that many people say "work just as good but at a better price" than the more expensive V-Twin specific lifters.. but it's your bike, your choice...

Good luck with your mods...

 

"I don't use off brand lifters, or popular lifters that are designed for another application... I use lifters designed for a Harley V-twin engine.... period...

I'm not a tech, nor do I work on hundreds of bikes.... On the 5 bikes I've done cam chest work on, I've used S&S premiums (their older style lifter made in the USA) and most recently, the Hylift Johnson's from WFO Larry.... I will not use GM small block V8 lifters, nor other brands for other applications that many people say "work just as good but at a better price" than the more expensive V-Twin specific lifters.. but it's your bike, your choice."


What is an off brand lifter???? its not rocket science a lifters design is basically the same unless........it is spec`d differently such as the Wood Multi directionals & most of Bob`s stuff - is his spec to Andrews, I do many older TC 88`s and there are different tiers of Cam chest maintenance or build, I have used just about every brand of everything in an HD cam chest - the Comp cam lifters are hardly an off brand (Just Automotive) & HD used alot of auto parts along the way, shovels used AC delco regulators, ford solenoids & GM fuse block relays - as I said I have seen cut aways & no big differences across the board.

Schaeffle, SKF, Eaton, Tenneco (Federal-Mogul), NSK, Competition Cams, Rane Engine Valve, Lunati & many others. folks there all basically the same. So...........just for instance, comp cams can be used in chevy / ford engines (have em in my ford 351 windsor at roughly 400hp nothing big...!) but you wont use them in an engine under 100 hp? your money..............But you`re getting bent over hard with no reach around. the oil inlet is the same size, rod cup same size, spring is same, roller & pin identical, etc....

At current I am at more Cam chest builds than I can count & I have used Comp Cam lifters & never had a problem - the only mechanical that I am loyal to is Smith Bro.`s adjustable Push rods - the others I have had issues along the way but not with these, everyone has an opinion on parts but anything that is for HD will be double or more in price & no better....! I was re-doing the electrical on a 76 sporty - HD dealer quoted me $95 dollars for an AC delco regulator, Napa.........cross references it to some car of that year for $34 bucks & the sales guy was apologetic it cost that much? to each there own & as long as your Happy thats what matters, I just dont like giving my money away.

Good Luck & keep us posted on the build.

Merry Christmas everyone.

 

Over the years I guess I've just had good luck with everything from a 3hp B& S "Little Indian' mini bike, a Honda Mini trail, an 80cc Yamaha small trail bike, a 250 Kawasiki Street /Trail. My 74 750 Triumph, the 71 900 Sportster and for the last almost 19 years the current 03 FLHRCI. never had reason or money to more than basic maintenance, oil, filter, tires, brakes and such. When I finish collecting up the parts then the fun starts. The only reason I'm diving off the Hi board this time is due to cam chain tensioners that are still there just worn past my comfort level to continue with. the bike still sounds and runs fine so I won't be building a Top Fuel drag bike. I know I sound like a 3rd grader trying t figure out how the pencil sharpener works. But one needs a sharp pencil to get the lesson for the day finished. Thanks for the in put on the over size cams or oversize pins. Seems the more I read, the more questions arise. I guess I should get the rig apart and inspect cams and lifter wheels for wear and condition. before spend big or little bucks for parts that may not be necessary. I doubt any price difference between those that sell the same parts will not be much if any. I did get to Larry's page for a look over and with all the positive in put on him has pointed me down that path, if I need to. I used to frequent a local "watering hole" around here and the proprietor being Tracy Kyle, One Sat. a few years back he brought down the "Bad Apple" top fuel bike he takes to the drag races. When he fired the rig up. all us peons could do was watch in amazement, drooling with LUST in our hearts. That was a good day!
Guess I'd better get my feets a movin,, daughter and grand daughter heading this way soon. Hope you all have a good holiday. I'll check in when I get down to business with the project

 

LXT .... I sincerely apologize if I shared my opinions in a way that came across as condescending to other opinions/suggestions....

Instead of "off brand", maybe I should have said I choose to stick to a lifter's stated application....

I know there are internal lifter differences. I have seen the S&S video (yes it's marketing) comparing two different make lifters and the difference in time it takes to get the oil to the rockers. I am also aware that many techs have varying opinions on the various lifters out there.... There are even many opinions about the quality of the Harley "B" lifters and the Harley "C" lifters, so staying within stated application is not always a guarantee..

Because of my personal experience level, or actually lack thereof, I would rather use a lifter that my research has shown has good results in the application I am working on, than take a chance with another lifter to save a few bucks...

As mentioned I'm just a home mechanic, wrenching on my own bikes, and once in awhile helping out a friend... On anything I do on my bikes, I do research, formulate an opinion that makes sense to me, and I will share it when applicable... There are many on here, that have way more experience and knowledge than I do... But unless I am familiar with them, and their work, while I don't discount their opinions, I will usually rely on my research to make my choices...

I never mean any disrespect to others who offer opposing opinions.....