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I bought a used wheel off of eBay and had it powder coated. When I installed the new bearings, I noticed the one side didn't give a whole lot of resistance when I installed it. I did some research to find a fix as I was already a wheel and powder coat in at the time. I found that many people suggested using Loctite 609 with the primer to assure the bearings would not slip. When I took the wheel into my Indy to install a tire, he told me that it wouldn't hold and that he wouldn't do it. I wanted to get some first hand experience from some of you. I just want it to be safe. I am not sure how the Loctite wouldn't work as it was made for this application, but want some reassurance that it will work or wisdom to abandon that idea before I install the wheel. If the consensus is to abandon the idea, my son-in-law's dad was a machinist and can probably machine the hub and make a sleeve so that everything fits tight. I wanted to get people's input on the Loctite 609 before I do that though. TIA
Not saying any of this is the solution for you but:
Once saw an old timer put a bunch of tiny dents all around a hub using a hammer and a round punch. It was enough interference to hold a bearing in tightly.
And also once saw another old timer create a tall sleeve from a beer can. Dropped it inside the hub, then the bearing, and then pressed the bearing in... used a razor knife to cut off the excess.
Both of these guys are still alive too if you can believe it.
I sold bearings for 30 years and have seen this a lot. A trick that has been used a lot is to ruff up the surface to give the bearing a little more to bite to. Usually done with a hammer and punch. That along with loctite can work well.
The best fix is to bore and sleeve it. However I don’t think that’s a good idea. Looking at my wheels there is not enough meat there. You’ll end up reducing the integrity of the wheel, or having a thin sleeve, or both.
The last thing you want is for that bearing to spin in the hub. That will be a disaster.
Without seeing the wheel my first thought is I would abandon this in the name of safety.
not really experienced in wheel bearings here, but seems to me that you would not want to heat the bearing up as that would make it expand and therefor be tighter in the hub. wouldn't you want to cool the bearing, heat the hub, or both?
OP, question for you how did you remove the bearing on the sprocket side, I did my fronts today and am going to do the rear soon but not sure my pit possee puller will work on the side with the torque rubber, also did you do the sprocket bearings and if so how did you remove and install them?
Here is the bearing that is in question. I have heard the only way to get them out is to heat them way up. Isn’t that tighter than a press in?
OP, I'm confused, your original post mentions a bearing is too loose, then you're mentioning heating up the bearing to get it out? did I miss something? I recently did wheel bearings on a Talon rear wheel, and used my Pit Posse bearing kit, no heat or any other measures were necessary....
Originally Posted by MRFREEZE57
OP, question for you how did you remove the bearing on the sprocket side, I did my fronts today and am going to do the rear soon but not sure my pit possee puller will work on the side with the torque rubber, also did you do the sprocket bearings and if so how did you remove and install them?
OP, I'm confused, your original post mentions a bearing is too loose, then you're mentioning heating up the bearing to get it out? did I miss something? I recently did wheel bearings on a Talon rear wheel, and used my Pit Posse bearing kit, no heat or any other measures were necessary....
my Pit Posse kit worked on the sprocket side....
That is good to hear, did you do the bearings in the sprocket also? I haven't had it off to look at yet but the local dealer said over 200 bucks to replace them that is with the part off the bike.
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