Shift lever replacement
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 870
Likes: 245
From: Transfer, PA
Shift lever replacement
So, I found that my shift lever was loose today (trans side) and figured I'd try cleaning and lubing the bolt to re torque it before committing to pulling the primary AGAIN to install a new one. Considered the Baker lever. At any rate, I pulled the bolt at great effort and wiggled the lever which then came right out. Everything I've seen says the primary has to come out, right?
If I'm unable to get this original lever stock, is there some chance a new one will go in without opening everything?
I can pull the primary, I just don't particularly want to do it again.
If I'm unable to get this original lever stock, is there some chance a new one will go in without opening everything?
I can pull the primary, I just don't particularly want to do it again.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 565
Likes: 152
From: Calgary, Alberta
The Baker unit has a larger cross section, and much more robust. Unlikely it will go in or out without removing the inner primary, but, it will likely be the last time for this reason. You might be able to get a good number if years out if your original one, by putting a good amount of blue Loctite on the splines. I did that on the front lever, which kept coming loose, and it's been good for years. I took it off when I did my clutch last year, reused it with blue in the splines again, and it's solid. I get it's a cheap fix, but it might be worth a try instead of pulling the whole thing apart again. You lose nothing other than some time if it doesn't work.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 25
Likes: 25
From: Valdosta GA
Try this: https://www.betterlever.com/ I know it works-I used one on my '16 RGU and will eventually put one on my '21 SG.....AND, you won't have to pull the primary!!!
Last edited by boulder76; Aug 28, 2022 at 08:18 AM. Reason: add info
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 407
From: Outer Banks, NC
So, I found that my shift lever was loose today (trans side) and figured I'd try cleaning and lubing the bolt to re torque it before committing to pulling the primary AGAIN to install a new one. Considered the Baker lever. At any rate, I pulled the bolt at great effort and wiggled the lever which then came right out. Everything I've seen says the primary has to come out, right?
If I'm unable to get this original lever stock, is there some chance a new one will go in without opening everything?
I can pull the primary, I just don't particularly want to do it again.
If I'm unable to get this original lever stock, is there some chance a new one will go in without opening everything?
I can pull the primary, I just don't particularly want to do it again.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,075
Likes: 11,096
From: San Diego, CA
Caulk, I'm confused. You stated "wiggled the lever which then came right out". Then you talk about removing the inner pri case. I think on your 2011 FLHX there's enough clearance to remove the tran shift lever without removing the case, which is what you said you did. Now my 2006 I have to pull the inner Pri case to remove the lever unless you dremel it out. I do have the "Better Lever" installed.
I forget the year it changed.... maybe 2009...?
But prior to that change the inner primary needed to come off, to remove the OEM lever.. or there was grinding needed....
After the change, there was an indentation in the inner primary cover, allowing for the lever to be loosened and removed/replaced.... But it is a tight fit... I doubt aftermarket levers such as the Baker would be able to be installed without removing the inner primary cover.... but I am not completely sure on that...
FWIW... the Baker lever is a good piece of gear... I installed one on my 2016 Ultra Classic. I had the inner primary off when it was installed during my engine swap, I didn't try to install it with the inner primary cover on the engine...
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 870
Likes: 245
From: Transfer, PA
I was under the impression that the inner primary had to come off to get the lever out. I guess the inner case changed at some point and allows it to be removed now. That was my confusion.
I was able to get a new bolt this morning and all is well now as it tightened down just fine. I'll be checking it more often now, but the bike has 45k and I know that lever has never been off.
If it loosens again I'll pick up a Baker lever. That Better Lever is crazy. $2xx? I'll pull the primary to save that kind of ching.
I was able to get a new bolt this morning and all is well now as it tightened down just fine. I'll be checking it more often now, but the bike has 45k and I know that lever has never been off.
If it loosens again I'll pick up a Baker lever. That Better Lever is crazy. $2xx? I'll pull the primary to save that kind of ching.
Last edited by caulk04; Aug 28, 2022 at 01:12 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,830
Likes: 7,968
From: poway
FWIW it's not that the lever is not weak but is too strong.. The TQ required on the bolt to clamp on the splines is often above what typically most think is required.
The splines in the lever are cast and they need to seat into harder machined splines in the shaft. What usually happens is that splines on the arm wear loose. Without retightening, they can wear enough to strip. Proper maintenance to ensure that these arm is tightened eliminates the issue..
It's the same issue as spoke wheels.. Spokes bed into the hub and nipples into the rims. After the first or second retightening, they stay put.
The splines in the lever are cast and they need to seat into harder machined splines in the shaft. What usually happens is that splines on the arm wear loose. Without retightening, they can wear enough to strip. Proper maintenance to ensure that these arm is tightened eliminates the issue..
It's the same issue as spoke wheels.. Spokes bed into the hub and nipples into the rims. After the first or second retightening, they stay put.
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 186
Likes: 38
From: bendigo
6 speeds you can get it out because of indentation in back of primary. A dremel and bit of fun just cut the old one off, then replace with the twin bolt one you can get. Not sure about the baker it does look substantially more robust. Mind if you got the old one out why pay the extra. Most important is to bin the bolt and replace with a high quality one.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 407
From: Outer Banks, NC
I was under the impression that the inner primary had to come off to get the lever out. I guess the inner case changed at some point and allows it to be removed now. That was my confusion.
I was able to get a new bolt this morning and all is well now as it tightened down just fine. I'll be checking it more often now, but the bike has 45k and I know that lever has never been off.
If it loosens again I'll pick up a Baker lever. That Better Lever is crazy. $2xx? I'll pull the primary to save that kind of ching.
I was able to get a new bolt this morning and all is well now as it tightened down just fine. I'll be checking it more often now, but the bike has 45k and I know that lever has never been off.
If it loosens again I'll pick up a Baker lever. That Better Lever is crazy. $2xx? I'll pull the primary to save that kind of ching.
Me, with my 2006, I do have to do that. However I now have the "Better Lever" (When I bought it, it was much cheaper). The BL is built with TWO bolts, it's like the bottom end of a connecting rod. So I can install it with out removing the inner primary.
MaXheadflow had some good comments: >>>FWIW it's not that the lever is not weak but is too strong.. The TQ required on the bolt to clamp on the splines is often above what typically most think is required. The splines in the lever are cast and they need to seat into harder machined splines in the shaft. What usually happens is that splines on the arm wear loose. Without retightening, they can wear enough to strip. Proper maintenance to ensure that these arm is tightened eliminates the issue..<<<
I think HD made the original lever TOO BEEFY. In other words it takes a lot of torque to close that little gap to tighten on the shift shaft. If Harley removed some material around the area it would be more flexible and require less bolt torque to securely tighten around the shift shaft. What's amazing to me is that this has been a problem for years and HD hasn't really addressed the issue. It takes the aftermarket (Baker and Better Lever) to come up with a solution.
Last edited by glasspilot; Aug 30, 2022 at 04:29 AM. Reason: spelling