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Just got my Black Widow pro lift set up. It comes with 2 length extensions, but shouldn't I try and set the wheel chock up so the rear wheel is centered on the drop plate on the rear end of the table?
I measured from the front of the front tire back to the rear axle at about 76 1/2"s. So measuring from the center of the drop plate forward puts the wheel chock 2 3/4"s beyond the front edge of the table top. I picked up a K&L chock so I'm trying to make damned sure of where I mount the chock to prevent drilling unnecessary holes.
If I had to drill holes to mount a vice/chock on the table, I would set it up so the wheel would fall into the drop out area. I don't think you have to be perfectly centered, so to speak. Is the 3" going to matter?
On mine, it sits forward of center about 4 or 5", and I think the rear tire would still drop out without hitting the fender first... but I could also move the vice back, because the mounting holes for the wheel vice on the table has an extra set of holes to mount it a bit more aft (about 6"). It take 3 bolts on each side for my vice, and they're in a straight line and evenly spaced, and the table has 4 holes on each side. So I mounted it in the "forward" position, or front 3 holes, but I can shift it to the back 3 if I wanted. I did mine the way I did because I've only the drop out once so far.
Usually the problem is when the bike is sitting too far forward on the lift and the wheel is hitting on the table in front, and then hits the rear fender in the back, before it can "drop" all the way out.
If you're aft of center, and with the drop out panel out, there is now a "slot" and nothing in the back to hit on the table (assuming your table doesn't have some kind of frame work along the back with the drop out panel out). Unless you're using rollers in the drop out panel area, I would think a little back would be fine... just be sure you got room for the wheel to drop out the back, before getting caught between the table in front of the wheel and the fender in the back of the wheel.
I have a K&L chock on my K&L lift.... The chock can be slid forward and rearward within the side mount clamps for the chock base....
I have the mounting brackets at the front of the table, and leave the chock aligned so it sticks off the front of the lift table like 1", and my bikes all end up with the rear tire over the rear drop out. Not all in the same spot, since I have 2 softails, one bagger, and one Dyna... But they all line up well enough that I can use the rear drop out for removing the rear wheel. If I had to, I could easily move the chock, within it's mounts 3", 6", or even more...
For comparison sake, my table length is 86 3/4" long, and the rear drop-out length is 23 1/2" long
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 15, 2023 at 01:30 PM.
Hattitude, I don’t know why I never thought of that. I bolted and unbolted my chock for the different needs. I ended up going back to the cheap Harbor freight screwed chock. I’m going out to see what I can make up.
Hattitude, I don’t know why I never thought of that. I bolted and unbolted my chock for the different needs. I ended up going back to the cheap Harbor freight screwed chock. I’m going out to see what I can make up.
That was the main reason I bought the K&L chock with my K&L table.... I liked the mount/adjustment both inn the rocker cradle (that almost all those style chocks have) and the ability to move it forward and back... I've found that K&L makes some good stuff...
As it turns out, I found a sweet spot that works for all my bikes, without the need to move it forward and back... Mine are all OEM wheelbase Harley bikes. If you had different bike manufacturers, you would probably need to adjust the chock for different bikes...
If you look closely at the wheel chock mounting strips.... they have a lip/gap in the inside portion that the chock mount plate can slide forward & aft within.... The three outer screws attach the mount strips to the table (drilling z7 through bolting needed). The three inner bolts just pressure fit against the chock plate (with locking nuts to keep them tight) and hold it in place...
FWIW... my table also has the front drop-out and I can also remove the front wheels on my bikes without adjusting the chock...
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 15, 2023 at 02:30 PM.
Gonna depend on the chock... start all the way back, pull into it and see if its making the front of the tire set up against/into the stop on the front of the tire snugly, then you'll have a better idea if and how much you need to move it.
Gonna depend on the chock... start all the way back, pull into it and see if its making the front of the tire set up against/into the stop on the front of the tire snugly, then you'll have a better idea if and how much you need to move it.
However, if you are talking specifically about the K&L wheel chock... mine has five holes to mount the rocker attachment. I use the second hole from the rear for all my Harleys...
It will firmly hold my '03 Heritage, '16 Bagger, and '16 Low Rider Dyna. On my '01 FXSTS Springer, with the 21" x 3" wheel, it is a looser fit.... not completely stable on its own..
I always put a scissor jack under the rear of the frame, just ahead of the rear tire, on all my bikes immediately when they get on the lift. The scissor jack stabilizes all the bikes by itself. Although before heavy wrenching, I also use straps on the front end. The scissor lift is visible in the rear tire pic of my Heritage in my post above.
On the Springer, I put the scissor jack in place before releasing my grip on the bike and walking away. With four bikes, I find this protocol easier than adjusting the rocker for the springer when it has its turn on the lift...
If you can find a better wheel chock for a lift buy it.
I’m glad I have one and their scissor Jack.
Had to go look at mine when Hat said his in in the second to last hole for the cradle, mine is in the last hole and holds the bikes well. Moving it forward may make it a bit easier to get the bikes out, but it’s not difficult now.
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Lift table setup
