Weird Feeling

When I first got my bike (bought it used from private seller with 600 miles on it), I took it for 1k service to the dealer. They washed it and did their thing. $650 later and some reading, I no longer take my bike to the dealer and NOBODY is touching it, especially washing it. Not after I spent all day correcting the paint and ceramic coating it. It has no swirls on it and I want to keep it that way.
If you can, I highly recommend getting service manual. It has everything there. I did my own 5k service and in couple weeks, will do the 10k service to start the season. The dealer prices around here for even fluid changes are crazy.
In the end they did well and it all worked out. I learned 2 lessons with this:
1. take the bike in early in the day and wait for it. Given the opportunity to let it sit, they will, even though I had an appointment.
2. They do good work and I shouldn't worry about it so much.
But break-in oil actually does exist......!
Break-in oils are mineral oils with no friction modifiers to help the rings seat against the cylinder walls. It also has zinc and phosphorus additives to protect cams and other components during the break-in.
Many people will use it for the first 100 miles on a new top end break-in with new pistons, rings, and cylinders on a performance engine. When I redid my 2003 engine to a big bore 95". I spent good money to have the pistons, rings, and cylinders matched. With good cylinder wall machining, and with the ring gaps properly set, the rings will seat within 50 miles. The advice of my machine shop was to vary rpm, and don't exceed 3500 rpm within first 100 miles. Then drain/replace the break-in oil with whatever oil I intend to run.... the bike is ready to ride...
Many manufacturers recommend a 500 or 1000 mile first oil change. I'm not sure that's necessary, as the oil filters these days will remove any contaminates created during "break-in", but if it's recommended by the people who are providing the new engine warranty.... I'd certainly perform and document (receipts, etc) the required oil changes...
I remember my Ram Cummins truck required 7500 mile or 6 month oil changes during the warranty. Damn engine took 3 gallons of oil per change... The first two years I was only putting 5k miles a year... yeah, I bit the bullet and followed the warranty requirements.... I did 4 oil/filter changes in 10K miles... That hurt, but an out of pocket diesel repair would have hurt more...
But break-in oil actually does exist......!
Break-in oils are mineral oils with no friction modifiers to help the rings seat against the cylinder walls. It also has zinc and phosphorus additives to protect cams and other components during the break-in.
Many people will use it for the first 100 miles on a new top end break-in with new pistons, rings, and cylinders on a performance engine. When I redid my 2003 engine to a big bore 95". I spent good money to have the pistons, rings, and cylinders matched. With good cylinder wall machining, and with the ring gaps properly set, the rings will seat within 50 miles. The advice of my machine shop was to vary rpm, and don't exceed 3500 rpm within first 100 miles. Then drain/replace the break-in oil with whatever oil I intend to run.... the bike is ready to ride...
Many manufacturers recommend a 500 or 1000 mile first oil change. I'm not sure that's necessary, as the oil filters these days will remove any contaminates created during "break-in", but if it's recommended by the people who are providing the new engine warranty.... I'd certainly perform and document (receipts, etc) the required oil changes...
I remember my Ram Cummins truck required 7500 mile or 6 month oil changes during the warranty. Damn engine took 3 gallons of oil per change... The first two years I was only putting 5k miles a year... yeah, I bit the bullet and followed the warranty requirements.... I did 4 oil/filter changes in 10K miles... That hurt, but an out of pocket diesel repair would have hurt more...
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
To the OP, Black Ultra, I recommend you buy the service manual and the parts manual. Then take these to an office supply store and have them cut the back binding off and install spiral binder. This way it will lay flat on your bench while you use it. The parts manual has exploded views of all the sub-systems on your bike, which will help with dis-assembly and assembly. And I would not fret quite so much if you have to take your bike in for some reason. Just understand that sometimes the quoted times may run a bit longer. I was a licensed master mechanic back in the 70's-80's and worked at auto dealerships. Sometime there are things that slow down repair processes....which could end up the mechanic getting a later start on your project.
Just make sure you have good tools and patience if you are not experienced at mechanic work!
The best solution is to have two!
















