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Like alot of you on this forum, I like looking at my bike almost as much as riding it.It's going to be a long cold winter in Northern Ontario, I'll have lots of time to work on the bike. One of the things that really jumps out at me every time I'm checking her out is the way all that engine chrome is bolted together with fasteners that aren't chrome. I mean it really bugs me that they are dull and to me this really sucks.
I know there are at least a couple of different ways to deal with the problem.
1. I can buy those little chrome covers with the spring clips inside them and just shove them on. Seen it done, doesn't look bad. A big improvement over the stock appearance.
2. I could buy the kits to replace all the bolts with chrome ones.
I'm concerned that the little cap ones will fall off or maybe be damaged if you have to take them off to remove the screws underneath.
On the other hand, it may be real easy to change most of the hardware to chrome (I have a service manual and a torque wrench) but, I wonder how to avoid marking the chrome fasteners so that rust doesn't come out in the middle. Maybe I'm just looking for tips or advice from anyone that has any experience in these area.
Basically, whats the best set up?
I put a dab of clear nail pollish on chrome fasteners whenever I make adjustments. In particular, this works well for allen head screw where water can accumulate in the socket head.
I agree, but what are the problems or downsides associated with this type of mod?
I catch myself looking at the packs of "hardware kits" in the catalog myself. The thing you've got to thing of is that you're swapping out a LOT, and I mean a LOT of bolts if you plan on doing the whole drivetrain area.. Engine covers (timing and cam). Transmission door. Primary. Possibly frame mounts, peg bracket mounts, etc.
A few of those covers are engine parts that have oil behind them and are torqued specifically with gaskets, etc. I'd say it would be good to do them when you do an oil change on all three.. Engine, Tranny, Primary. So there's basically more time involved in it verses just popping on some covers. There's some cost / benefit analysis I'd do on it ... Is it diminishing returns?
I'll be doing much larger parts first long before I get to chroming out little parts like that, if I ever do.. Like forks, pegs, maybe even a swingarm and wheels. There's lots more dramatic affect you can get by other things than the bolts, unless you're bike is already chromed to the hilt.
My bike is not chromed to the hilt. I hope it will be soon. It's just that the engine, primary and transmision don't look finished with the stock fasteners.
Also, after reading your last post Babs, I'm wondering about the way to change the fasteners. I was thinking you could remove them one at a time and then retorque them to spec. Maybe, my inexperience is showing. Do I have to remove all the screws and then follow the reinstal directions in the manual?
ORIGINAL: Wally
I was thinking you could remove them one at a time and then retorque them to spec. Do I have to remove all the screws and then follow the reinstal directions in the manual?
I'm wondering the same thing, so you're not alone. That's a good question..
From what little I know of engines, I'm inclined to say you might, just for covers but you'd probably either want to swap 'em all at once, or at least loosen them all at once so as not to put any undue stress on the part..
To give you an example..
Ever had a guy ruin your brake roter by warping it from torquing up each lugnut with an air gun one at a time?
You can do the same with any multi-bolt mounted part, which is why they have torque patterns on those parts typically.
I would tighten and loosen any of those cover parts all or none.. I would NOT leave any of them tight while loosening one or some.
I'm sure one of these experienced wrenches around here could set us straight on whether I'm right or full of horse hockey. hehe
Also, after reading your last post Babs, I'm wondering about the way to change the fasteners. I was thinking you could remove them one at a time and then retorque them to spec. Maybe, my inexperience is showing. Do I have to remove all the screws and then follow the reinstal directions in the manual?
Don't half *** it, replace the fastners with chrome ones, one at a time and torque to proper spec. Then cover all allen head cap bolts with allen hole plugs available from the stealer or independent mc shops. E.g., H-d p/n 94130-93T pg. 691 of catalog.
Anything else looks like a cheap cover up.
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