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Here we go-2013 FLHTK went 48k miles with no issues, owned by a close friend. Three years ago, his ABS module locked out the front brake. After flushing and bleeding, no change. He bought a new module from the local dealer, we installed it, flushed and bled and all was right with the world. He rode it maybe a dozen more times on short rides and parked it due to health issues. Last year, I bought the bike from him and found the front brake severely restricted but would work if pulled hard enough. It stops well with just the rear brake, but that is not how I ride. I recently went after the problem myself rebuilding the master cylinder-it was clean. No improvement. I found if I tapped on the module with a light hammer, it opened up, but would revert back even with the key off. I took to the local dealer to be told there was really no point in doing a power flush with Digitech as the module was faulty-likely due to moisture in the fluid. $1300 for a new module. I pointed out the system was thoroughly flushed when the module was replaced and the fluid was still clear and clean. He insisted on his lack of maintenance canned narrative, and I threw the BS card. For reference, I have 30years in automotive as tech, trainer and management. Also 8 years as a former HD service manager. The moisture narrative is just an excuse for a crap part. For context, I have a 1993 BMW R1100RS. This bike was the first major redesign for BMW in decades with first generation ABS and fuel injection. It still has all the original parts that still work perfectly. It is rarely ridden, but always works. I'm sorry for ranting a bit here, but there is no excuse for such a poorly designed part when really robust systems have been out there since the late 70s. As HD service manager, we replaced quite a few of these. Other forums have running threads on this issue. I don't know if anyone has a workaround other than bypassing the system altogether. It's amazing to me that the replacement part is still no better than the original, if not worse for such a critical system. At this point, I will be bypassing the system converting to non-ABS as I have no faith in the HD module.
I'm not sure about that-I'm thinking I'll just unplug the module, if I don't remove it completely. I'll just put it on the shelf with the original one.
The modules do come apart, and repair pieces used to be available. They may still be, just not through Harley. Sorta like the non-serviceable shocks that Showa made, and sells parts for.
Id be awful inclined to take it apart and see if it could be simply cleaned, or repaired, then reinstall it.
If youve two modules, all the better to mix and match parts.
I left mine plugged in and just used double banjo fittings and M10 x 1.00 bolts to bypass the block. No warning lights or anything. I have a 2010 FLHTK
Last edited by tankthebiker; Oct 9, 2023 at 09:44 AM.
I'm glad to see one of these threads from an accredited source. So often it's someone with no history of the bike and no fluid changed.
My 19 year old Dodge diesel pickup truck has NEVER had the brake fluid changed. In fact, I've never had an issue with any other vehicle's ABS, be it a car, truck or bike. It's amazing that HD can get away with this without the NHTSA scrutinizing things more closely. I'd hate to have to do without ABS, but I'm not sure I'd sink the money into my '14, as many miles as it has now.
I bought the bike from him and found the front brake severely restricted but would work if pulled hard enough. It stops well with just the rear brake, but that is not how I ride. I recently went after the problem myself rebuilding the master cylinder-it was clean. No improvement. I found if I tapped on the module with a light hammer, it opened up, but would revert back even with the key off. .
You are describing the same problem a friend of mine had back in March of this year. His 2008 FLHTCU
Slight change in 09 but basically the same unit till 2014 Changed in 14
Visited threads here and started a couple of my own.
He manged to catch get the brake lever to feel good by Gorilla griping the lever but as you mention it would lock up again.
I told him to get the lever back feeling good and remove the ABS fuse before starting or riding the bike.
He did and the base brakes have been fine since. He commutes to work most days with 70 mi round trip
He hasn't done it yet but mentioned a Indy he part timed for could turn off the abs light with their scanner
If you did not flush and cycle ABS the reason is you. Even BMW requires the 2 year flush. Bikes ABS is not like Cars.
Rant all you want you were lucky it lasted that long.
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