The Better Lever is expensive but it works great AND you don't have to remove the primary to install it.

 

OP hasn't been back ... Either he's busy or he's resolved the problem ... I, in most cases, choose the easier and less expensive resolve first ... If it works hooray .. If not I go from there ... As i stated earlier I'e been successful several times ... Hope he's got it fixed :>)

 

I don't think one would work any better on my 2017, don't have to remove cover. I guess big difference for me, is one is stainless it might look better in several years?

 

I’m still here and processing all of the much appreciated advice..

I am reluctant to crank on the bolt anymore than I already have, I am already at the max recommended torque. If I break the bolt in the arm my repair options get really limited.

I am confident that a socket head fastener is as strong or stronger than a grade 8 hex head bolt. I worked for a company that had a tool and die shop and the die makers used socket head cap screws exclusively and cranked them down hard. They are strong fasteners. I will try a hex bolt at recommended torque to see if it can close the arm some. I don’t see how that will do much since I already am at max torque for the fastener. Worth a try though.

If the hex fastener does not work I will replace the arm if I can slide it off of the shaft. With the amount of slop I have, I don’t see that being a problem. There is a YouTube video of a guy doing it, betterlever says it can be done too so I am sure I can get the arm off.

A new Harley Davidson arm is about $30 with the new bolt. That’s cheap enough to give it a try. My current one lasted 11 years and tens of thousands of shifts. If I can get the oem to slide on, I should be good for many more years.
Getting a new arm on the shaft with the new fresh and not worn splines seems to be the issue some are having getting the new arm on. Spreading the arm open at the slotted area is something I will try if I have problems getting it on the shaft. Worth a try for $30.
If I have good luck with the oem part and think I can do the repair twice easily, I may give the Baker arm a thought.

If all of the above doesn’t work I will go with the betterlever arm. I really like that design and the ease of install is a huge plus. Take some time and watch his video on installing the arm. The price is steep but removing inner and outer primary isn’t something I want to get into unless I have to.

Cold weather is not too far away so I will do the repair this winter.

Oko asked for a picture, Here is the arm I am working on.

Thanks to everyone who replied and gave advice, opinions and past experience. I have considered all of the solutions. When I finish the repair I will update and what I learn may help someone else.

 

Did you use the betterlever to replace yours?

 

I thought newer bikes, you have a 12, the shift lever slides on and off, no covers to remove, use any lever ya like. Seems like I have done that before. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yes, but I replaced the lever on my 93 Fatboy. So far no issues on my SG.

 

So did you break the bolt loose, clean the threads, do the blue, grease and washer? What torque are you using?

 

Not yet on any of that.
The first plan is to replace the bolt to see if i can clamp it tighter. I will use a new bolt, grease and washer and loctite. this is the cheapest and easiest fix.
I am using 22 foot pounds. That measure came from a YouTube video. I have a service manual and I cannot find any information on the shifter arm torque specs in my manual.
I plan to do the repair when cold weather arrives.

edit, I found the torque value in my service manual.

 

When my engine swap was done, just for the hell of it, I added the Baker Truss Style Shift Lever on my 2016 bagger.

It's a pretty stout, solid piece of kit. And... it's less than half the cost of the "Better Lever". Certainly, the better lever pays for itself if to change levers you need to remove the primary. If it is possible to remove the lever with the primary in place like they claim it is for some years now, I'd give the Baker lever a good look to save some $$$.

FWIW..... I've never had an issue with that trans lever coming loose on any of my bikes. For years I've checked it, only once found it loose (on a used bike purchase), but still check them on my current bikes every so often...