Shifter Arm Question
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 800
Likes: 407
From: Middle Tennessee
Shifter Arm Question
Quick question,
i have a 2012 Road Glide and the shifter arm that connects the long shifter linkage to the transmission shift rod, we will call this the rear shifter arm, appears loose. It is only loose left to right, not front to back. In other words it appears to be sliding on the transmission shaft. I can get an Allen wrench on the socket head cap screw and it is tight, really tight. So I assume it is gripping the splined shaft tightly.
Is this normal or do I need to crank on the bolt some more.
I dont want to break something that isnt broke.
i have a 2012 Road Glide and the shifter arm that connects the long shifter linkage to the transmission shift rod, we will call this the rear shifter arm, appears loose. It is only loose left to right, not front to back. In other words it appears to be sliding on the transmission shaft. I can get an Allen wrench on the socket head cap screw and it is tight, really tight. So I assume it is gripping the splined shaft tightly.
Is this normal or do I need to crank on the bolt some more.
I dont want to break something that isnt broke.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 822
Likes: 488
From: LA Ca.
If your talking about the shift lever that is attached to the shift rod that goes into the trans.
My '07 Dyna was loose on the trans rod. Tried tightening it. Tightened it as tight as I felt safe to do so without breaking the bolt. I thought the splines in the lever were shot. Bought a new lever and pulled the primary cases off. I inspected the lever and the splines looked decent. I tried tightening the bolt again just to see what it would do, I tightened it way more than I did the first time, nothing to lose since I was all the way in there. The lever gripped tight. 6 years now on this and all is fine.
Hope this helps a bit.
Tom
My '07 Dyna was loose on the trans rod. Tried tightening it. Tightened it as tight as I felt safe to do so without breaking the bolt. I thought the splines in the lever were shot. Bought a new lever and pulled the primary cases off. I inspected the lever and the splines looked decent. I tried tightening the bolt again just to see what it would do, I tightened it way more than I did the first time, nothing to lose since I was all the way in there. The lever gripped tight. 6 years now on this and all is fine.
Hope this helps a bit.
Tom
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From: bklyn,ny
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,421
Likes: 277
From: USA
I have the Bakerdrivetrain.com lever in my tool box if needed. Cost is $100 plus tax and shipping. It is an item that should be checked at every oil change for tightness and slop.
https://bakerdrivetrain.com/collecti...nt=23522349379
https://bakerdrivetrain.com/collecti...nt=23522349379
Last edited by timbo141; Oct 11, 2023 at 05:41 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 800
Likes: 407
From: Middle Tennessee
A second look this morning shows front to back movement also with the transmission shaft being still. I also tried tightening it again and the fastener will not move.
Time for a new arm.
Has anyone changed one on a six speed? I am looking at one of the aftermarket arms, Baker or Betterlever. I understand it can be changed on a six speed without taking the primary covers off.
Easy, not so easy?
Time for a new arm.
Has anyone changed one on a six speed? I am looking at one of the aftermarket arms, Baker or Betterlever. I understand it can be changed on a six speed without taking the primary covers off.
Easy, not so easy?
Last edited by bill from tn; Oct 11, 2023 at 08:51 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
The Better Lever options works ... It is rather expensive ... I've seen occasions where removal of the Allen bolt, cleaning the threads with a new Hex Head bolt then discarding that bolt and using another new bolt with some Loc-Tite and torquing ... I've had this work on a couple of different scooters ... You have little to lose with trying this first ... Good Luck
@bill from tn
@bill from tn
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
I ran mine this way for many, many years, even had the inner primary off several times and left it as it was, never a problem -
Remove the bolt and buy another 1/4" longer. Buy a grade 8 nut. Thread the nut loosely onto the bolt, all the way. Run the bolt in finger snug. Using a socket and ratchet, tighten the nut. It'll put WAY more clamping pressure on the arm than you will ever get with a socket head bolt alone. No loctite needed.
Remove the bolt and buy another 1/4" longer. Buy a grade 8 nut. Thread the nut loosely onto the bolt, all the way. Run the bolt in finger snug. Using a socket and ratchet, tighten the nut. It'll put WAY more clamping pressure on the arm than you will ever get with a socket head bolt alone. No loctite needed.