Hello people it has been a minute since I was on here last. It's harvest time and I work crazy hours for a few months. I have a 2011 Ultra Limited I got the chance to install a new regulator a week ago. At first it seemed to be fixed. I took a ride that night and no check engine lights. So the next day I decided to ride it to work. All wa good but on the way home the check engine light and battery light came on. So today I checked it and it was only charging 12 volts and it would drop off to nothing. My question is how do I know if it's the stator or the rotor that is going bad. And answer will be greatly appreciated. Thanks jim

 

Gonna take a little studying and some testing.
IMO the 14.3 -14.7 is a bit on the high side while testing voltage at the battery early on in the post
13.8 -14.2 is what I look for
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html

Good Luck WP

 

Thanks I had gone threw and checked everything. Stator ohm were good and no short to ground but it was only putting out around 11 or 12 volts at 1000 rpms but regulator I thought tested bad do I bought one of Ricks motorsports. And got it on. I guess I will just replace stator. And since I will everything off I will replace the compensator as will. Or should I replace the rotor as well.

 

Read the link above, and do the tests as outlined. You need to test the regulator and stator independent of each other... Since you purchased an aftermarket regulator, I would check that too...

If you are saying you already did those tests, and the rotor is only putting out 11-12 VAC @ 1000 rpm, it's bad.....

IMHO... when it comes to the charging system on a Harley, I'll use Cycle Electric parts or OEM HD parts... They are the only ones I trust.

Cycle Electric's web site also has a technical section with a "Diagnosing low charging voltage" tutorial.

http://cycleelectricinc.com


NOTE: Unless the rotor is damaged, you will only need to replace the stator. If you are having issues with your compensator, go ahead and change it... but the comp doesn't affect the charging system.

 

Before I would just replace the expensive parts, I would have the battery load tested. When they start going bad, you get all kinds of weird things happening. A couple months ago I was out on a ride when my bike started running rough and would quit running altogether. Then 5 minutes later, all was good. For another 5 minutes. I had to have it towed home where I could look it over and find out what was going on. What happened with mine was, apparently there was a broken connection inside the battery. One minute all was good, then the next I couldn't read any voltage. I was thinking about replacing the key switch, voltage regulator, stater, when a load test proved the battery was the culprit. I'm not saying that's YOUR problem, but it's the easiest and cheapest thing to check or replace.,,

 

a failing battery will cause a host of electrical problems...start there always

 

Good advice above.....

To ad to their good advice.... Anytime I suspect an electrical problem, or pull up a DTC code, I will do a good test (load test) of the battery first.

Once I verify I have a good, solid 12V source (battery), then I go on to other tests, and/or clear the DTC(s) and see if they reappear...

Good luck with your repair...

 

I went through 2 Harley alternators and 3 voltage regulators before I switched to Cycle Electric. That's been 4 years ago and it's working like a champ. Currently my ride has 93K on the clock. There's about 30k on the cycle electric alternator.

 

+1 on Cycle Electric
I went through 2 Harley alternators and 3 voltage regulators before I switched to Cycle Electric. That's been 4 years ago and it's working like a champ. Currently my ride has 93K on the clock. There's about 30k on the cycle electric alternator.

 

On two previous ElectraGlides, I replaced the charging system with Cycle Electric rotor and regulator. Much improved and never replaced again.