looking for others expertise & guidance with this issue.
'07 FLHTCU, over 63000 miles original compensator. Has it's clunks and kick backs now and then. I had to replace the pressed on ring gear a little over a year ago due to a broken tooth.
Now the ring gear has given up the ghost. Does the old comp cause most of this issue? Thought it was the starter clutch, but it still continues. The battery is just over a year old still has good voltage. I am on a limited income, should I replace the comp when i replace the clutch hub ring gear combo? Thanks for any & all advice.

 

Can't precisely figure out what "ring gear has given up the ghost" means but your description matches the other symptoms for a very tired and inadequate compensator. That loud clunk is the compensator running out of travel and the shock hits all of the parts like a hammer blow. Things will continue to fail until a new compensator is installed thus properly cushioning all of the forces involved. Unfortunately the new comp will also require a new rotor as your present one is not compatible with the new comp springs. I would also replace the chain tensioner as it absorbs quite a bit of the shock when that clunk happens. You may also have the old style and the new one is better. Youtube has some videos of installing the new comp if you think you might want to tackle that yourself. I have no knowledge of your mechanical experience and tool inventory.

 

The ring gear looks as though an angle grinder took out the teeth! tools and ability to do the work isn't the problem. My fixed income is. I have a Hayden tensioner, but not installed yet..
looking for a good deal on a clutch shell w/ ring gear. is the S.E. comp going to be the best and least expensive set-up on a 96"? If anyone has a decent used clutch shell with ring gear on the west cost to sell, let me know. thanks

 

Sounds as though you had best replace the starter drive also, that is the assembly containing the starter clutch and starter gear that gets pushed out to engage the ring gear for starting. There are a few replacement compensators besides Harley's but they are about the same price or more. Harley seems to have worked out all of the bugs in the latest compensator. Can't help you with a replacement clutch basket. A very few have replaced the compensator with a hard mounted sprocket. They have seemed to be happy with the results but I can't help but wonder what that does to the transmission. I believe they can be purchased for around %100. I have no personal experience with that solution so I don't even know if that would still require the new style rotor. Good luck, Bidenomics is slowly effecting all of us.

 

I agree with btsom...

It appears your comp is bad and has been hurting other parts.

But first I would do two things..

1) I suggest you do a load test on your battery, check and clean all cables, especially the ground, to ensure you have a sold 12v power system. Some of your issues could be totally battery related. You'll want to rule that out before spending the time and money on a new comp. This is free...

2) Have you checked your starter clutch and gear.....? It could have been damaged, like the ring gear, or could have caused the ring gear damage. If there are any signs of damage, or improper operation, you should replace it. The inspection is free

After verifying a solid 12V power source, and a properly operating starter drive... Then you can focus on the compensator with confidence...


You have the original "updated" comp Harley went to in all 2007 models. It was very problematic..

The current SE replacement for your compensator is much improved.

https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...tor/p/40100061

However, as mentioned, it will require you replace the rotor. The new rotor is included in the above kit for your bike. It will however require the removal of the inner primary cover to change it out with the old one. That is some extra work, but not hard. If a shop is doing it, that will cost a few more $$$$. Also, due to your mileage, check the inner primary seal, bearing, and the shifter seal on the side of the transmission. If they are showing any signs of leaking, best to replace them now, rather than needing to remove the inner primary again.

There is a technique used by some to grind a small portion of the inner primary cover, while it is in place, that will allow for the removal and install of the new rotor without removing the inner primary cover. It will save on time, a couple gaskets, and eliminate the chance of messing up the inner primary seal (which some people accidentally do) when removing the inner primary cover. I'm not a fan of grinding the inner primary cover. But search and you should find how it's done, and there are many who have done it with success.

If you have the original OEM primary auto primary chain tensioner (#39929-06A), it too was problematic. The current Harley #39929-06C auto tensioner is much improved and would work fine. If you have the Hayden M6 BT07 tensioner, it should work fine in your bike too. FYI.... There were problems when using it on the '09+ bikes for awhile. It was too tight due to longer than needed springs. Apparently Hayden just assumed it would work with the then new '09+ bikes, and didn't check. They changed the springs for the newer bikes. It looks like it's the same tensioner for the older bikes too. I don't know if the spring change affects the older bikes or not... I do not recall hearing any problems with the Hayden used in older than '09+ bikes.

Also mentioned by btsom, there are some who do away with the compensator altogether and just use a solid engine sprocket. I personally wouldn't use it on an OEM Harley engine.

By 2007, the Harley run out numbers were increasing. Instead of fixing the issue, HD just kept raising the "allowable" run out spec. It topped out at about 0.010" in 2010... That is a ridiculous run out spec. Just for reference, you need less than 0.003" to run gear drive cams without the possibility of damage to the gears. If you buy a new engine with the bottom end done by Dark Horse Crank works, it will come with a TIR (total run out) number of at or below 0.001".

I have a bagger with an S&S crate engine with the better than OEM S&S flywheel and crank. It runs gear drive cams and has a power output of 135HP & 151TQ. I put a solid sprocket on that bike, for a gearing change, and don't fear any damage to that bottom end due to it's superior construction to the OEM HD bottoms ends of that era... It does make more noise than a compensator, but noises don't bother me if I know the cause...

I also don't fear any transmission damage, because I am not drag racing, it's just a street machine. If I were drag racing, road racing, or a "ride it like I stole it" rider, I'd send it to Simon Motorsports to let Andy Simon Sr work his magic on my OEM 6-speed trans.


I hope some of this info helps you with your repair decisions.

Good luck with the repair and keep us posted...

 

The ring gear on my 99 FLHT needed replacing so instead of a new clutch hub I got a ring gear from Rivera Primo. Drilled out the stock rivets and swapped it. It was 66t, much sturdier so I had to swap the starter gear too. I don’t know if this is possible with yours but it’s worth checking out. Good luck.

 

Mine has a pressed on ring gear, heat it with a torch and remove with a few hammer whacks, new gear is heated in oven for about 25 minutes then set on clutch shell, not used for at least 24 hrs. it's a 106 tooth gear. i replaced it approx 1- 1-1/2 yrs ago. had a hard time finding someone who had it in stock.
before i my ultra classic i had a FXDL and put on a Primo Rivera 1 3/4 primary belt drive. had O issues except noise to being a dry set-up and having vented derby cover and belt inspection cover. this had me thinking a comp eliminator would be okay as the Primo front pulley was a solid mount, but some disagree.
Thanks to all for the input and suggestions. all are appreciated.
also Hattitude, have had the inner primary off before to replace the final drive belt, dropping swing arm etc. about a 6 hr job!