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Anyone make their own Trask crankcase vent?

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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 02:21 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 702
There have been a couple guys here that have done it and had poor results.
What poor results do you mean? The Trask cover is a quality part im sure, but its very basic and easily cpoied for a fraction of the cost if done right. I just checked a local parts shop and it's $729.00 CDN from them. I know there are cheaper places in Canada online but the costs up here are crazy as most know. The parts alone are cheap.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:15 AM
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Made several of those things, for some friends and my own bikes.

This is a one way valve I made, it fits in the "trow a way" filters like I call them













Here installed on a FXFBS




I also made some vented dipsticks with a one way valve in it









 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 10:03 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by MoneyFor
Made several of those things, for some friends and my own bikes.

This is a one way valve I made, it fits in the "trow a way" filters like I call them













Here installed on a FXFBS




I also made some vented dipsticks with a one way valve in it








That looks awesome, you should sell them.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 10:30 AM
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@Cornpipe did this too, and it was a simple task, let him tell the tale.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 11:47 AM
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Done correctly a home built system works just fine. My reason was I was fed up with air cleaner misting oil onto my leg - long day hot weather. First step venting the a/c overboard. That drizzle under the frame made a mess. Next step my home built Trask substitute as I described earlier, with a catch can. The key is using a robust check valve & I like the metal reed valve since it works long term for rapid cycling pressure on/off.

If the motor is pressurized you have the valve backwards!

So, no more oil on me, the frame, the saddlebag. Also, a vented motor with check valve keeps a slight vacuum inside the motor easier revs an old hot rodder method used for decades.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparkules
Done correctly a home built system works just fine. My reason was I was fed up with air cleaner misting oil onto my leg - long day hot weather. First step venting the a/c overboard. That drizzle under the frame made a mess. Next step my home built Trask substitute as I described earlier, with a catch can. The key is using a robust check valve & I like the metal reed valve since it works long term for rapid cycling pressure on/off.

If the motor is pressurized you have the valve backwards!

So, no more oil on me, the frame, the saddlebag. Also, a vented motor with check valve keeps a slight vacuum inside the motor easier revs an old hot rodder method used for decades.
Im trying to find a check valve locally but nothing that i like so far. What type of pressure rating does the check valve need?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:27 PM
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If you have a 2017-2019 touring bike, you'll also need to punch a hole in the gasket. See post #21 below: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...l#post21555291

There was a change in the touring trans top cover, I THINK in 2020. 2017-2019 touring top covers will not work for venting crankcase due to the internals of the top cover changing.

In 2020 the touring trans top cover switched to the softail trans top cover.

34800038 is the 2017-2019 touring number.
34800046 is the 2020+ number.
 

Last edited by BrandonSmith; Feb 5, 2024 at 03:31 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Cornpipe;[url=tel:21532036
21532036]… I vented from the top of the trans case.










.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 07ntrain
What poor results do you mean? The Trask cover is a quality part im sure, but it's very basic and easily cpoied for a fraction of the cost if done right. I just checked a local parts shop and it's $729.00 CDN from them. I know there are cheaper places in Canada online but the costs up here are crazy as most know. The parts alone are cheap.
I don't remember exactly, so I'm hesitant to say, but it had something to do with poor choices for the check valve. Maybe if you search a little you'll find their posts. I run the genuine Trask on both my bikes. It works.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 702
I don't remember exactly, so I'm hesitant to say, but it had something to do with poor choices for the check valve. Maybe if you search a little you'll find their posts. I run the genuine Trask on both my bikes. It works.
Yes, use a reed check valve, NOT a ball check valve. Ball check valves should not be used in “fluttering” type applications where pressure is constantly moving between positive and negative.
 
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