Starter question?
Alternatively the battery could just have surface voltage and the load just draws down battery.
It is suggested that battery be load tested at an auto shop(many are free) but a digital voltage meter at battery posts will give you a general idea.
What are your voltage numbers?
Voltage at rest with everything OFF? This one gives you an idea if battery is charged.
Voltage while cranking? This one gives you an idea if battery has enough juice to start.
Voltage at idle and then high idle? This one gives you an idea of how bike is charging at idle(stuck in traffic) and then high idle (rolling down the road).
Too many people replace a battery and never check charging system with this simple test.
How old is the battery?
Regarding clutch switch/interlock /safety-Very similar to newer stick shift cars.
At one point the manufacturer started to put a lock-out safety switch located between clutch lever and clamp.
Very similar but different to switch at front brake lever.
Switch requires bike to be in neutral or have the clutch pulled-in for bike to crank/start.
Does your bike crank with clutch pulled in but bike in gear? or only in neutral?
I do not know if your year had the switch.
*If it was my bike, I would start with battery testing at home with a digital voltage meter.
Then I would review the FOUR ends 4 of battery cables.







