Hey guys I have a 2001 road king classic, my question is the 2 “idle air speed or pilot screws” on the throttle body, are they the same as a carburetor pilot screw, in for lean and out for rich? My bike has aftermarket slip ons and a k&n style air filter, it has popping on deceleration like a lean pop, any info appreciated!

 

If your bike has the MM fuel injection, The two screws you see on the right side of the throttle body is, top screw-fast idle, bottom screw- warm idle. Try setting the throttle position sensor with volt meter. There are plenty of threads on here on how to do it. This procedure you will reset the fast idle and the warm idle using volt meter. If your bike started the decel pop when slip ons and air filter were changed, you may need to have re-tuned. After I installed slip ons and big sucker air cleaner on my 2000 Road glide, I bought a power commander lll and got a tune from dyna jet. Power commander lll is obsolete now but they have newer versions for the MM's.

 

I’ve already set up the parameters with the multimeter, I’m asking about the screws above and between the throttle blades.

 

The two screws are for idle air mixture,and best to just leave them alone, short of using spray carb cleaner on the two intake ports below them, to make sure that the passages are clean in the first place.

As for MM, need to pull the ecm fuse since your TPS is not adjustable type like early models (ecm needs to just do a relearn on it), can use meter to set hot and cold start, but I just set it to hold engine about 1200rmps on start up, then drop down to 1K as motor comes to temp on hot temp screw is in play alone. So really, your only adjust the hot idle and cold idle adjuster screws, that are on the bottom right hand side of the carb itself.

And chances are your pop on decel, is leaks in intake rubber seals at the jugs if running stock for most part. When you replace the intake seals to jugs, make sure to use Silicone grease to condition the rubber and the mating ares for the seals. This will have the seals lasting 5 year or better, verse the 3 years at best that the seals without silicone grease dries out, to cause the intake leak at the jugs.



As for mods to the bike, will need to know which ones that are not oem, since often is just say cam and exhaust, if the fuel mixture needs to be enriched up across the board and don't want to put tuner on bike, can be done by changing out the black injectors to the red ones that flow more fuel.

 

the reason I ask about the idle mixture screws is I can tell somebody has been messing with them, I wanna make sure they are set real close to correct! Do they set like mixture screws on a carburetor, in for lean and out for rich? Is there a set amount of turns out from lightly bottomed out? Thanks for any help

 

Didn't realize your tps was not adjustable. Do the air mixture screws have any kind of a wax or plastic over them? My 2000 has some kind of coating on them so they can't move and can't be moved. The tps had the same material over the screw heads. If the coating is still on screw heads, they were never turned. I was looking through my service manual and it doesn't say anything about the mixture screws. Only to take it to dealership. With bike running, spray some carb cleaner or brakleen around intake seals. If have a change in idle, you have a leak like Dano suggested. Wish I could help you out more. Good luck.

 

I have worked on Webber/Masrelli EFI systems on another brand bike, but not one on a HD. To try to answer your question.....On the Webber/Marelli system the screws that I believe your referring to would be Air Bleed Screws. The screws open a passage to allow more air in past the butterfly. Screwed in and the air bypass is closed. As you unscrew them, it adds more air.

Again, taking a guess here based on another Marelli system. Hope it helps,
Tom

 

Thanks for all the info, gonna check the idle mixture adjustment tomorrow

 

Short bus is someone change air bleed port screws, start with hot and cold idle set via voltages, ecm reset for tps, remove vacuum cap port plug and put vacuum gauge on port, then let IAC control the idle to hold the rpms to 1K with motor warmed up,and adjust port screws evenly to each other, while trying to get the highest vacuum number at 1K rpm. As for screws if someone tampered with them, start about 2 turns out and normal turns would be about 2-1/2 turns out/highest vacuum number at port with motor at 1K with motor hot and IAC control.

Rubber cap plug on vacuum port,and make sure your rubber plug off cap is not cracked to cause air leak, or someone forget to reinstall it and why your having problems with IAC not controlling idle correctly with too much air flow past the vanes, with everything else set correctly.
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