Drop in fork springs. Something not right
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Joined: Jan 2023
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From: NC
Drop in fork springs. Something not right
Pulled the forks off the bike, removed top cap and spring. Turned it upside down to drain oil and started pumping it to get all the oil out.
went back to instructions and next line says do not decompress fork before you remove the bottom fork bolt. Oops
I notice the line on the forks where they were compressed to during removal. I cant get it to push down that far now. What would have came loose when I started pumping them without the spring inside? I did put the spring and cap back on and it still hasnt went down to where it was when I pulled them off.
do I need to completely take them apart now? Its a 2014 road king
thanks
went back to instructions and next line says do not decompress fork before you remove the bottom fork bolt. Oops
I notice the line on the forks where they were compressed to during removal. I cant get it to push down that far now. What would have came loose when I started pumping them without the spring inside? I did put the spring and cap back on and it still hasnt went down to where it was when I pulled them off.
do I need to completely take them apart now? Its a 2014 road king
thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 5,814
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From: Las Vegas
Post some pics of what your talking about to make your question more clear.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 800
From: Colorado
If you removed bolt 22/25, then need to pull the forks apart, so you set forks tubes on theirs sides, to get rebound spring 9 back up on the dampening rods, and make sure that extension cap 24 is seated all the way on to dampening rod bottom 19, and is in the square in the recess on the bottom of the void for 17/16, before you start to bolt the damping rod back to bottom of 17/18 with bottom bolts , without the main spring tension in play.
Hence rebound spring, and end cap, are not going to stay in place with bottom of dampening tube straight down.
If you are having problems torquing bolt 25 with spring out (dampening rod just turning) then you can inset spring 22 with light hand pressure against the top of it, so to hold 19 from rotating as your rebuilding the forks.
The older forks had drain bolts that allow you to semi drain the oil in them to just replace the fluid in the forks(bolt 26), without having to pull the forks apart.
And just a note, but get into the habit of pulling the forks apart every 30K, to change out the 6/8/1-25/10-25, the O rings and fresh fork fluid.
[img]ttps://images.imagessite.com/OEM_IMAGES/hd_mc_images/HD14FLHR040.gif[/img]
The bushings 6 and 8 are teflon coated, and your want to replace these bushings before the coating wears off, and you have bronze rubbing against the chrome and anodized parts instead.
and what your fork oil is going to look like in 30K miles, and why you want to pull the forks apart, to not only rebuild them, but to get all of the old fluid out as well.
As for rebuild kits, have had good luck with the JG rebuild kits for around $80, but may want to just go with HD oem rebuild kit instead (JG has been going down hill since new ownership a while back).
Last edited by Dano523; Jan 26, 2025 at 02:04 AM.
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