Looking for starter advice 2008 ultra
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,139
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From: San Diego, CA
So it's been starting the same for 65K miles, and now it's starting to hesitate when hot...
You haven't mentioned (or I missed it) that you have done anything to inspect your 12V system.
With any suspected electrical problem, I always check the easy stuff first. I do a load test on the battery, not just a voltage check. Then check the battery cables for clean, tight connections. Pay special attention to both the connections at the battery and downstream from the battery, especially the grounds. On an older bike, also inspect the cables where the terminals are attached for signs of damage at the terminal crimps under the wire insulation. I also look for signs of heat on the cables. That's a dead give away of high resistance and something amiss...
Once I have verified I have a solid, 12V source for the bike, then I start looking at other possibilities.
It could very well be the starter or starter solenoid, especially with all those starts on a 103 without compression releases... but don't overlook the battery/cables or even the starter relay.... Easy stuff first..
Keep us posted on your diagnosis...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
One a 103, starter hesitation could be starter but is typically a sign that the battery and cables are getting weak. I've got 125000 on a 07 and still have the original starter. It's been a 96 (15000)/103 (65000) /107 (45000) and has compression releases. Only time the releases get used is on really hot days and the battery is over 4 years old. I, like hattitude, use Yuasa gyz32hl batteries. I also use 4 gauge battery cables..
I did kill one starter clutch with the 103 after waiting too long to replace the battery. Also the first thing you should check is battery terminal tightness.
I did kill one starter clutch with the 103 after waiting too long to replace the battery. Also the first thing you should check is battery terminal tightness.
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Joined: Mar 2021
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From: backwoods
Look at what they use for the jump packs. small wire because it is a short run. That gauge of wire is starting millions of harleys. It is also only carrying load for a short time. It is not a continuous load.
Shorter the wire less resistance. Go look in 5k electric heater at what they use for wire, and that is a continuous load so it is increased 20%. Granted they can get away with small wire by UL testing and saying its fine. But either way it is fine.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
Put a meter on it. Not sure you will be able to measure accurately. Go look up the resistance for both sizes of wire.
Look at what they use for the jump packs. small wire because it is a short run. That gauge of wire is starting millions of harleys. It is also only carrying load for a short time. It is not a continuous load.
Shorter the wire less resistance. Go look in 5k electric heater at what they use for wire, and that is a continuous load so it is increased 20%. Granted they can get away with small wire by UL testing and saying its fine. But either way it is fine.
Look at what they use for the jump packs. small wire because it is a short run. That gauge of wire is starting millions of harleys. It is also only carrying load for a short time. It is not a continuous load.
Shorter the wire less resistance. Go look in 5k electric heater at what they use for wire, and that is a continuous load so it is increased 20%. Granted they can get away with small wire by UL testing and saying its fine. But either way it is fine.
You really don't have a clue.. While you are uncertain about measuring resistance, you need a special milliohm meter to do so. The best thing is to find a DVM with min / max sampling and measure the peak voltage drop.
The reason why the jump boxes work is that they start with a higher voltage and can tolerate more drop. Wires will heat. It's worth investing in Reference Data for Radio Engineers or even the NEC code book.
BTW If you ever worked with high current systems, the connector and how it's attached to the wire can be the biggest issue in the voltage drop. I've designed systems where the supply current was rated at 1600 amps at 5 volts. Used 4 2000 watt supplies.
Hey fellas, thanks for the advice but can you measure your d**ks somewhere else.
My battery is only a year old. I suppose you have a poi t about checking the wire connections at the starter and the battery first
My battery is only a year old. I suppose you have a poi t about checking the wire connections at the starter and the battery first
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,245
Likes: 3,679
From: backwoods
You really don't have a clue.. While you are uncertain about measuring resistance, you need a special milliohm meter to do so. The best thing is to find a DVM with min / max sampling and measure the peak voltage drop.
The reason why the jump boxes work is that they start with a higher voltage and can tolerate more drop. Wires will heat. It's worth investing in Reference Data for Radio Engineers or even the NEC code book.
BTW If you ever worked with high current systems, the connector and how it's attached to the wire can be the biggest issue in the voltage drop. I've designed systems where the supply current was rated at 1600 amps at 5 volts. Used 4 2000 watt supplies.
The reason why the jump boxes work is that they start with a higher voltage and can tolerate more drop. Wires will heat. It's worth investing in Reference Data for Radio Engineers or even the NEC code book.
BTW If you ever worked with high current systems, the connector and how it's attached to the wire can be the biggest issue in the voltage drop. I've designed systems where the supply current was rated at 1600 amps at 5 volts. Used 4 2000 watt supplies.
I actually work in power, not piddly little stuff like you.
The bike started all these years with stock cables, as do millions of other bikes.
Last edited by Rounders; Feb 8, 2025 at 01:03 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,245
Likes: 3,679
From: backwoods
It worked fine for 65k miles with stock components.
You can usually hear a weak starter clutch. It's can reveal weak battery or weak battery can reveal weak starter clutch.
With 75k miles I would probably just do the starter clutch based on age.
Especially since with a 6 speed you can pull the starter out the back real easy.
Last edited by Rounders; Feb 8, 2025 at 01:02 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,893
Likes: 8,001
From: poway
I know you can't measure which is why I said look it up the tables for resistence. I ductor 138kv disconnects. Though not all companies see a value in it.
I actually work in power, not piddly little stuff like you.
The bike started all these years with stock cables, as do millions of other bikes.
I actually work in power, not piddly little stuff like you.
The bike started all these years with stock cables, as do millions of other bikes.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,245
Likes: 3,679
From: backwoods
2000 watt? I work 80MVA transformers and equipment rated for 2000 amps. Again stay with your little wires. I deal in 500MCM wire and bus bars. We put in together with 3/4 bolts or crimp with machines that I can even guess the power they got.
But regardless of this dumb stuff. It worked with the 103" for 65k miles.