The green wire is the trigger wire for the starter solenoid. Does the clip on the end of the wire slide on and off the tab easily or does it have a tight grip? If it has a tight grip, you have a wiring problem. If the clip is loose, it can be pushed out of the plastic cover and squeezed a LITTLE AT A TIME on the curled edges to tighten the grip on the tab. When the clip has a firm grip, push it back into the plastic cover and install on the tab.

 

I talked to an HD mechanic who walked me through testing the wiring the starter relay the 40 amp main breaker, the green wire that goes to the solenoid and all checked out fine. Then I took apart The Handlebar housing and noticed the white wire with black tracing was dark brown for about an eighth of an inch near the starter button where it went in. On my bike you don't have plug and play switches, you actually have to splice the new switches to the wires that are already there matching wire color for color. In essence we figured out it's the starter switch on the handlebar which is the problem. The inside of the switch is not accessible so replacing the switch is the only option which I'm in the process of doing and I will let you know if it starts. Thanks guys I appreciate it and any other advice would be greatly welcomed.

 

okay parts are here it'll take me about an hour and then we'll see if it starts. New starter relay new fuel pump ignition relay new handlebar switches and a solenoid push button emergency start switch just in case. Although I would not want to start my motorcycle with a solenoid cover push button all the time. Any advice from anybody would be helpful!!

 

Being a police bike, would start by going through the old police modules that they cut out, so make sure old wires are capped off in the first place.

Eeally, would be replacing the harness in the bike, include grip pods, back to civilian versions as well.
Hence problem may be that entire harness loom was just cut out/tucked back in, each wire not capped off in that cut section, and its at one of these locations that your getting the wires touching each other that is causing the short problem in the first place..

 

If it was/is a handlebar switch problem...
AN easy test wire at triger wire on connector with bike in NEUTRAL would spin starter.

 

How many miles on bike?

 

there are no wires on the bike that would just be hanging because I bought it straight from the factory and it has never been in Police Service. I checked all the extra plugs for the police wiring and the weather type caps are in place. I put the solenoid start button on and the bike fired up. After this bad weather gets through I'm going to install the new start button and kill switch. There is no access on a 1999 FLH TPI to the wiring inside the switch. So the only thing I could think of was to replace the switches unless there is a way to jump across the two switches and The Handlebar to see if it starts if it does I know there's a short in one of the switches. I turn on my run button hit the emergency start button on the solenoid cover and it fires up. I don't know if riding it like that would damage the bike but that leaves me to believe there is a short inside the start button and once again you have no access to what's inside. If anybody can figure out how to tell me how to get inside that switch I would do that and check it but it looks like if you access the interior of the switch you destroy the switch. The entire electrical system checks out once I got the bike running I got the proper charge from the voltage regulator to the battery and all the other wiring checks out. I also put a new starter relay and fuel pump relay on.

 

In that vintage machine, I believe the switches can be removed and replaced, it is only the much more recent bikes that have the housing and switches as an assembly that can't have individual switches replaced. It is a "fiddly" job but doable for someone who has done automotive wiring in the past. Undoubtedly, the housing and switches, as an assembly, would be more expensive than the switch, or switches you want to replace and would involve removing pins from the end plug in your headlight or faring and re-pinning the plug with the pins on the new assembly. The plastic cases for each individual switch are either glued or plastic welded together so trying to separate the case halves will destroy the switch. Don't confuse that with the "clam shell" halves of the housing that holds the individual switches. That must be split to access the switches. It sounds as if you have already done that to see the discolored wire. If you don't have a manual for that bike, you might well have already broken the little button off the end of the front brake, brake light switch. That results in your brake light either flashing as you ride or being ON all the time. If you have cruise control, it will not work until the brake light switch is fixed or replaced. There should be lots of guidance on that in the electrical section in here.