Hi! I keep fighting with this bike… xD

As I said in some threads before, I recently bought a 1996 EFI Electra Glide (Evo). The original ignition sensor (32448-95A) was melting and the bike sometimes loses power (mostly in really hot conditions and low rpms) and does some random backfires. The garage that revised the bike ordered a new part, but it didn’t arrive in time (it was far from my location and went in plane), so I left with the bike and they sent the part to my home. I believe it’s an MC-SPA-3, as it looks like one and has a little “3” on the plate. I installed it in the correct mounting holes (the fixed ones), and the cable colors match as they should (with a provisional connection, just connected the terminals to the bike connector to try), but it just cranks endlessly without starting. I’ve double-checked the connections multiple times.

I tried resetting the ECM by disconnecting the battery and removing the ECM fuses for an hour, but it still won’t run. I’m planning to leave it disconnected overnight, though I’m not too hopeful. Do you think I might have received a defective unit, or could I be missing something in the process?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Review CRANK position connector.
On throttle side of bike.
Under painted side cover.
It is a pencil thick wire with a push and turn connector.
Gets loose.
Lots of cranking and no start or shuts off over bumps when connection is lost.

 

Hi! The previous owner recently changed it, checked the connections and they’re good.

I mean, if I plug the old OEM bad ignition sensor instead the MC-SPA-3 it starts again.

 

Left it overnight but still nothing. I’m posting some pictures so you can see it better. It’s placed that way just to try, but it should work. If I put the old sensor back same way as this one, it runs.




I’m lost here. I’m starting to doubt if this sensor is a direct replacement for injection bikes.

 

Another reason why i recently converted my 08 electra glide to a carb. My sensor was melted as well. I saw alot of threads about fake or non working replacements just like you got there. You might be stuck trying to find a used replacement, pay top dollar for a NOS one or just convert it and never have to worry about one of those sensors leaving you stranded. Yes i know anything can break but i like my chances of finding a new dynatek ignition better than a new cam or whatever sensor while out on the road. I would say you definitely got a fake sensor...some people suck. Good luck with the motorcycle

 

Thanks man, maybe you’re right.

Got my multimeter this morning and started to try. The red cable has 5,06v (ok). The signal cable (green) has 4,55. This value should vary as the sensor has a magnetic field or not. In the old unit, when it doesn’t detect the magnetic field the value it’s 0,11v, and when it does it’s 4,55v.

BUT, in the new sensor it’s always on 4,55, no matter what, as it always has some magnetic item between the little gap of the sensor. I even tried outside the bike and stands in 4,55. So I think that the sensor came bad and has nothing to do with the compability.

Let me know your opinions, but at least I’m starting to see the light.

 

In the picture the second stand-off bolt is not installed in the no adjustment hole.
A few degrees difference is enough for a no start situation but perhaps that is not the problem.

Are you positive the wires going to connector are making contact?
RED, BLACK and GREEN
If so then the sensor is not responding correctly and the new sensor is the problem.

I would run the old sensor until a replacement is available.
The CAM sensor will give difficult starting for a long time but not really a problem while riding down the road.
Consider reconfirmation of CRANK sensor connector and wiring.....
That is a sensor that people take short cuts to save time and will cut the CRANK sensor wire near oil filter to save time...leaving a bad connection.

 

This is a copy paste of common problems for a 1998 touring but yours is basically same.1-COMMON...If fuel injected…Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .

The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.

2-COMMON..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. You can get a sub-harness wire assembly from J & P cycle catalog and then use a 1999 speedometer plug and play speedometer.

Easy changeover with no splicing of wires required. Old speedometer is a different manufacturer from the newer ones.

Note that mileage is stored in speedometer itself not in ECM.

Some folks send old speedometer out to specialty shops in order to change-out the LCD.
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.


4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.*FUEL INJECTED


5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..If fuel injected it is easier to access..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR... .*FUEL INJECTED very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…As an emergency by-pass just disconnect the idle control behind air filter when bike is off/at rest..You will need to hold throttle.

7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.

I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley.

I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.

Additional notes:

Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.

Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.

Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.

The throttle PULL cable might eventually give-up the throttle cable end ball. My cable had a few strands broken off at the little ball inside throttle clamp. It eventually snapped while on a road trip. Required switching return for pull cable in a parking lot. I would review and consider changing Throttle, Brake and Clutch cable if they are original.

There is a bracket 65619-98 called something like exhaust bracket tab located right at top of starter. Supports rear cylinder exhaust pipe right at starter. It sometimes breaks after 20 years right at the “L”..right at the clamp . Most people fail to look at it until further more costly problems develop instead of addressing the under $10 USA dollar part and saving future headaches and cost..

That bike era does not due well with rear swingarm lowering blocks. Check for and consider removal of rear lowering blocks if someone used them. They increase probability of rear swing arm crack since they alter shock angle. Blocks change in shock position at bottom and that appears to stress swingarm in my opinion.

 

I wonder why Dennis Kirk shows the MC-SPA3 does not fit your bike?

 

The MC-SPA3 does not have the vehicle attitude sensor/ bank sensor/ tilt sensor.
The sensor that shuts motor OFF if bike falls over.