09 Streetglide issues.
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4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 3
From: Wisconsin
09 Streetglide issues.
So new to me. Basically a gift, first bike. Just doing some clutch work in the driveway, taking classes in the sping. Anyway, neutral is very hard to find, if I turn the bars the radio acts up, also dash volt meter reads 11, starts fine, meters says 14 when running. My AGM charger says its fine(it is an AGM battery)? Also seat is a little wobbly, put some tape on the tank tang, helped some. Seat a 2016 date.
Thanks from a newbie!
Thanks from a newbie!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,214
From: San Diego, CA
So new to me. Basically a gift, first bike. Just doing some clutch work in the driveway, taking classes in the sping. Anyway, neutral is very hard to find, if I turn the bars the radio acts up, also dash volt meter reads 11, starts fine, meters says 14 when running. My AGM charger says its fine(it is an AGM battery)? Also seat is a little wobbly, put some tape on the tank tang, helped some. Seat a 2016 date.
Thanks from a newbie!
Thanks from a newbie!
Well, you didn't actually ask any questions, but I will read between the lines....
The inability to easily find neutral can be caused by clutch adjustment (at the clutch basket), really bad clutch cable adjustment, and/or primary fluid level. If you plan to work on the bike yourself, I strongly suggest getting the factory Service manual for your year/model bike. It's well worth the cost. For your bike, I believe you want HD part #99483-09.
Don't bother with the cheaper aftermarket manuals. I tried to use one for my shovel head back in 1980. I threw it out after trying to use it, and have been using only HD factory manuals since...
Your battery condition cannot be properly assessed with the HD gauges. They are notoriously inaccurate. You need to do a load test with a battery checker to know its true condition. A good battery should be 12.7V at rest and the 14V while running suggests your charging circuit is working properly. But again, voltage should be checked with a volt meter, not the dash gauges.
There are different seat fitments for various models over the years.. If you have a 2016 touring seat, it should fit. Most touring seats '08+ will be interchangeable. But with a used bike, and an unknown seat, heaven only knows what a prior owner has done to the bike and/or the seat...
If you have specific questions.... just ask. Many here try to help... but remember, we are not there to see what you see, hear what you hear, or know what you know about the issue and any repair attempts you have made. Good info on the issue and often pics can help us a bunch.
Enjoy the new bike....
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4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2025
Posts: 8
Likes: 3
From: Wisconsin
Even though I'm not versed in Harley mechanics, I'm very good when it comes to cages, UTVs, Tractors, Bobcat anything. I'll definitely get a manual. I believe NY issue with neutral is the stock shift rod. It's got some play to it. I usually have to use my hand to find the sweet spot for neutral. Foot just blows by it. No matter how soft i try.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,214
From: San Diego, CA
Even though I'm not versed in Harley mechanics, I'm very good when it comes to cages, UTVs, Tractors, Bobcat anything. I'll definitely get a manual. I believe NY issue with neutral is the stock shift rod. It's got some play to it. I usually have to use my hand to find the sweet spot for neutral. Foot just blows by it. No matter how soft i try.
With that background, you will be able to fix just about everything you would normally encounter with a Factory Manual.
Harleys can be quirky, so don't hesitate to ask if you have a question.
For example, if you are talking about slop in the shift rod (#17 in parts pic below) that runs between the foot shift shaft and the transmission shift shaft, it is known to be sloppy with the OEM ball joints. They are also known to fail, usually when you are far from home and/or if you are a "stomper" when it comes to shifting.
Look for an aftermarket shift rod with a heim joint rather than the OEM ball joint. Some people even buy the parts and make their own.
The heim joint will have less wobble and a firmer shift feel. But if any of the other conditions I mentioned above are out of whack, you may still need to "fight" to get neutral.
If you still have the heel/toe shifter on your bike, many find it easier to tap the rear shifter with their heel to get to neutral, rather than lifting with the toe...
Anyways, good luck, and enjoy the new bike!!!
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