First Time Rear Brake Change
So, before I go pick up an "inch/lb." torque wrench and a screw driver, I thought I'd ask for your best tips on doing this.
For instance, the manual says to use a screwdriver to pry the inner pad back into the caliper, is this what the two square holes at the top of the caliper are for or do you have to come from below?
Besides the right bag, do you remove anything else to aid in getting to it?
Is it best to do with the bike straight upright or is leaning on the jiffy stand OK?
Any good pointers would be appreciated (and notated in my manual).As down to earth the manual appears to be (how many manuals do you know would give you a tip like using a zip-tie to space out the brake lever if you don't have the regulation sized cardboard spacer?) I usually find good info from those that have "been there, done that". I was shocked to discover the new pads were'nt much thicker than the old ones (again being used to car pads), but I want to change them anyway so I can forget about them for another 20K. The next time I change them will be with a tire and a floating rotor.
THANKS!
EDIT: I just realized I did not specify - although you might be able to tell by the questions - I am looking at changing the REAR pads - THANKS!
1. Remove the rear cylinder master cover
2. Pull the right saddle bag.
3. Push the pucks back ALL THE WAY
4. LOOSENboth Pad Pins on the caliper
5. Hold both brake shoes in place and pull the pad pins.
6. Remove only one shoe at a time and pull the inboard shoe and replace with new one.
7. Remove the outboard shoe and replace with new shoe.
8. Insert both pad pins and torque to specs.
9. Reinstall rear master cover.
10. Pump up brakes with brake pedal to seat pucks.
11. Install saddle bag
12. Run bike around the block and check operation.
If you pull both pad pins without holding the shoes in place they will fall out and the anti-rattle spring will fall with them...beeeotch to get back in.
Put the bike on a stand, this will keep the fluid from yourrear resevoir spilling when you push the pucks back in.
1. Remove the rear cylinder master cover
2. Pull the right saddle bag.
3. Push the pucks back ALL THE WAY
4. LOOSENboth Pad Pins on the caliper
5. Hold both brake shoes in place and pull the pad pins.
6. Remove only one shoe at a time and pull the inboard shoe and replace with new one.
7. Remove the outboard shoe and replace with new shoe.
8. Insert both pad pins and torque to specs.
9. Reinstall rear master cover.
10. Pump up brakes with brake pedal to seat pucks.
11. Install saddle bag
12. Run bike around the block and check operation.
If you pull both pad pins without holding the shoes in place they will fall out and the anti-rattle spring will fall with them...beeeotch to get back in.
I have the newfairing bracketson mybike now, so far no cracks.
I didn't get the response I was looking for to go full-swing into production? I even posted pic'sof the first two pre-production brackets.
I talked to a guy in Daytona that was doing speaker upgrades on the touring bikes, he said he see's quite a few brackets broken...my guess is that there's a lot more people out there with broken fairing brackets and they just don't know it...[&:]
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Here's a thread about the brackets that may help...
https://www.hdforums.com/m_2367351/tm.htm[/align]






