What antenna did you use?

 

Just wanted to post that I just tried this and it worked so well even the guys at my dealer were impressed. Thanks for the great details and pics.

 

Do you have a seller or website info for the Ridetime LEDs? I cannot seem to find anything on them.

 

http://www.ridetimetechnology.com/

 

I'm glad you liked it!

 

I got a set off e-bay...$18.00 for the pair.......

 

I just installed the Radio Shack Siren (PN# 273-079) on my 2008 Street Glide and wanted to share the installation since it seems to be different than the earlier installation post for a 2007.

The siren connector is located to the left and below the fuse block. You do not have to remove anything other than the left side cover to expose the fuse block. The factory siren connector is a 3 pin Delphi connector. It is plugged into a mock pin housing so you will need to unplug it. I put the siren red wire in the first terminal (Power) wire colored Brown/Grey and then the black wire of the siren into Terminal 2 (Signal) wire colored Light Green/Brown. I just stuck the wires into the connector, electrical taped it together, and then zip tied the siren to the left of the fuse block.

Hope this helps!

 

Does anyone know if the "homemade" 2-1 makes good numbers???

 

I didn't want to pay for a pricey relocator when I only wanted to gain a little room. If you want a lot of room, then George Anderson's relocator is the way to go. There are two factory positions in the newer paks. I made a third. There is one little black plug in the rear middle hole that was already there. I bought a new one pn#90493-83 for the other hole as I was making a new one. To make the new holes simply take a straight edge of a piece of paper and make a mark on the paper directly in the middle of the rearmost hole and the next hole forward. Then move the paper forward so that the rear mark is now in the center of the forward hole and the forward mark is where you will mark in the tourpak to drill the new holes. This ensures proper spacing and location of the holes without having to measure. It also makes sure they are perfectly aligned with the existing holes. This was all done without having to completely remove the tourpak from the bike and cost under $3.

This picture with red circles indicates where the existing holes and hardware were located.


This picture with blue circles indicates the new holes. These are the only 3 holes that you have to drill in the pak itself. The one with the ground wire can be drilled down through while the pak is installed. The two on the sides can be drilled partially while the pak is installed on the bar, then finished while partially lifting the pak up.


This picture with orange circles indicates the new plastic plugs I used to plug two existing larger holes that were previously blocked underneath by the chrome support bar, but exposed once it was moved back.


This picture with purple circles indicates two existing holes that are used as guides to drill down through the two new holes in the chrome support bar. This ensures perfectly spaced holes in the support bar to move it back one position.


This picture shows the new position underneath in the support bar. You can see the existing hole that was there to the far right of the spacer.


This picture is a closeup of the where the bar is now, one position forward of the two existing positions.


This picture is just a shot from further back showing the third position underneath.


This picture shows how much space is gained.

 

I did it with a freeze plug, sounded like a good idea. Seems to work fine, but i too am curious about the numbers????