"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 336
Likes: 9
From: Elk Grove, California
helpful suggestions on oil and tranny fluid changes and other maintenance items
so, i had the dealer do the initial 1000 mile break in service, but i'm going to start doing my own maintenance services in the future.
just a few questions to make it easier to service the bike.
per the owners manual for my 09 road glide, says to check the oil on the jiffy stand and also the tranny fluid. but if i go about changing both fluid boxes, is everyone changing them while the bike is on the jiffy stand or do you jack the bike up on a jack? seems like a tight fit for a wrench and drain pan if i leave the bike on the jiffy stand. also, if i jack the bike up, is there enough clearance to reach the various drain plugs and also to put a drain pan under the bike without the oil dripping all over the jack?
if i jack the bike up, then the bike will be level (hopefully) and the dipstick for oil has readings for both on the stand and sitting upright, but the dipstick for tranny fluid is for when the bike is only on the jiffy stand. so, for tranny fluid, do i just drain the fluid and then put the bike back on the jiffy stand to refill it and check the level? seems like an unnecessary step.
what about checking the final belt drive tension? do you jack the bike up and have the rear wheel hanging down with suspension extended or do you keep the bike on the jiffy stand and keep rolling it forward to check different spots on the belt? (the latter seems like the way to go)
i've ordered the service manual from my local dealer cause they were out of stock, so i just wanted to get some helpful hints to make everything go smoother.
if you have any suggestions on these or other maintenance issues, please let me know. thanks for your help
just a few questions to make it easier to service the bike.
per the owners manual for my 09 road glide, says to check the oil on the jiffy stand and also the tranny fluid. but if i go about changing both fluid boxes, is everyone changing them while the bike is on the jiffy stand or do you jack the bike up on a jack? seems like a tight fit for a wrench and drain pan if i leave the bike on the jiffy stand. also, if i jack the bike up, is there enough clearance to reach the various drain plugs and also to put a drain pan under the bike without the oil dripping all over the jack?
if i jack the bike up, then the bike will be level (hopefully) and the dipstick for oil has readings for both on the stand and sitting upright, but the dipstick for tranny fluid is for when the bike is only on the jiffy stand. so, for tranny fluid, do i just drain the fluid and then put the bike back on the jiffy stand to refill it and check the level? seems like an unnecessary step.
what about checking the final belt drive tension? do you jack the bike up and have the rear wheel hanging down with suspension extended or do you keep the bike on the jiffy stand and keep rolling it forward to check different spots on the belt? (the latter seems like the way to go)
i've ordered the service manual from my local dealer cause they were out of stock, so i just wanted to get some helpful hints to make everything go smoother.
if you have any suggestions on these or other maintenance issues, please let me know. thanks for your help
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 17
From: eastern oklahoma
as far as wanting to keep your seat from getting ripped off, that's an easy one. there is such a thing as tamper proof torx screws, available also in stainless. the torx head has a pin sticking up through the center and you need the special tamper proof torx driver head, available at lumber yards, most other places like lowes, home depot, etc. as well as the screws are available either there or at fastenall. it works and they have it in either 1/4 20 and 1/4 28. coarse or fine thread. easy to do, but be sure you got the bit in your tool pouch. the bit will fit into the harley 9 way screwdriver too, which will now be officially a ten way screwdriver. hope this is useful information.
Stage II
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
You can also buy the Wolo 'Bad Boy' set from Harbor Freight Tools for forty bucks or less. I have a set on my '08 Ultra, but never thought about separating the compressor from the trumpets. I mounted the whole thing in place of the chrome cowbell. Looks fair, souns great.
On my '04 Sporty, I mounted a compressor in place of the stock horn with a homemade wiring harness extender. I made a bracket from 3/16" aluminum strap one inch wide, by about eight inches long. Bent the bracket, drilled hole, and mounted to the stock choke lever. Mounted twin chrome trumpets facing forward with chrome caps on trumpets. Looks great, and sounds AWESOME--especially for an 883! (sorry, no pics).
On my '04 Sporty, I mounted a compressor in place of the stock horn with a homemade wiring harness extender. I made a bracket from 3/16" aluminum strap one inch wide, by about eight inches long. Bent the bracket, drilled hole, and mounted to the stock choke lever. Mounted twin chrome trumpets facing forward with chrome caps on trumpets. Looks great, and sounds AWESOME--especially for an 883! (sorry, no pics).
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,990
Likes: 23
From: NC
I just installed the Radio Shack Siren (PN# 273-079) on my 2008 Street Glide and wanted to share the installation since it seems to be different than the earlier installation post for a 2007.
The siren connector is located to the left and below the fuse block. You do not have to remove anything other than the left side cover to expose the fuse block. The factory siren connector is a 3 pin Delphi connector. It is plugged into a mock pin housing so you will need to unplug it. I put the siren red wire in the first terminal (Power) wire colored Brown/Grey and then the black wire of the siren into Terminal 2 (Signal) wire colored Light Green/Brown. I just stuck the wires into the connector, electrical taped it together, and then zip tied the siren to the left of the fuse block.
Hope this helps!
The siren connector is located to the left and below the fuse block. You do not have to remove anything other than the left side cover to expose the fuse block. The factory siren connector is a 3 pin Delphi connector. It is plugged into a mock pin housing so you will need to unplug it. I put the siren red wire in the first terminal (Power) wire colored Brown/Grey and then the black wire of the siren into Terminal 2 (Signal) wire colored Light Green/Brown. I just stuck the wires into the connector, electrical taped it together, and then zip tied the siren to the left of the fuse block.
Hope this helps!
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Monterey Peninsula, CA
Flag Pole Mount 08 SG
I was getting frustrated because all my motorcycles have always had an American flag mounted on them.
My son has an 09 RG and he made a mount out of 1/4 x 20 all-thread utilizing the seat mount/backrest bolt hole. To prevent any scratches to chrome or chafing the flag 1/4 clear tubing over the all-thread. I used a small piple clamp to mount to the back of the detachable backrest.
I got mine done today in time for my Memorial Day tribute ride to the local Vietnam Vetern's park and local cemetary on Monday.
Now even my detachable backrest is semi permanent and can't be removed unless tools are available.
Cost: Flag - $10 - parts to make pole/mount - $6 - can't beat that vs. any HD or aftermarket flag pole costing $50-$100
Thanks Son for the idea.
http://pub27.bravenet.com/photocente...27855/36595/1/
My son has an 09 RG and he made a mount out of 1/4 x 20 all-thread utilizing the seat mount/backrest bolt hole. To prevent any scratches to chrome or chafing the flag 1/4 clear tubing over the all-thread. I used a small piple clamp to mount to the back of the detachable backrest.
I got mine done today in time for my Memorial Day tribute ride to the local Vietnam Vetern's park and local cemetary on Monday.
Now even my detachable backrest is semi permanent and can't be removed unless tools are available.
Cost: Flag - $10 - parts to make pole/mount - $6 - can't beat that vs. any HD or aftermarket flag pole costing $50-$100
Thanks Son for the idea.
http://pub27.bravenet.com/photocente...27855/36595/1/
Last edited by Oldguysg08; May 23, 2009 at 10:25 PM. Reason: Spelling as usual
Banned
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 378
Likes: 1
I was getting frustrated because all my motorcycles have always had an American flag mounted on them.
My son has an 09 RG and he made a mount out of 1/4 x 20 all-thread utilizing the seat mount/backrest bolt hole. To prevent any scratches to chrome or chafing the flag 1/4 clear tubing over the all-thread. I used a small piple clamp to mount to the back of the detachable backrest.
I got mine done today in time for my Memorial Day tribute ride to the local Vietnam Vetern's park and local cemetary on Monday.
Now even my detachable backrest is semi permanent and can't be removed unless tools are available.
Cost: Flag - $10 - parts to make pole/mount - $6 - can't beat that vs. any HD or aftermarket flag pole costing $50-$100
Thanks Son for the idea.
http://pub27.bravenet.com/photocente...27855/36595/1/
My son has an 09 RG and he made a mount out of 1/4 x 20 all-thread utilizing the seat mount/backrest bolt hole. To prevent any scratches to chrome or chafing the flag 1/4 clear tubing over the all-thread. I used a small piple clamp to mount to the back of the detachable backrest.
I got mine done today in time for my Memorial Day tribute ride to the local Vietnam Vetern's park and local cemetary on Monday.
Now even my detachable backrest is semi permanent and can't be removed unless tools are available.
Cost: Flag - $10 - parts to make pole/mount - $6 - can't beat that vs. any HD or aftermarket flag pole costing $50-$100
Thanks Son for the idea.
http://pub27.bravenet.com/photocente...27855/36595/1/
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From:
My Spin on a GDO switch
Posted this in the Touring Section so thought I should put a reference here...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...do-thread.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...do-thread.html
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Southern IL
I have the HD flamed stock height windshield on my Ultra. I Put Rain-X on it and ruined it (by the way, NEVER use plain Rain-X on a motorcycle windshield). It hazed the windshield, which was less than a month old. Wasn't so bad in daylight, but at night it was a bitch when headlights came at me.
I took it to work and cut 4" off the top with the bandsaw on low speed. It took some time and I traced it out ahead of time-used my stock w/shield as a partial template. It turned out great and looks almost like a factory job. Used masking tape on the cut area and also on the saw so as not to contact the windshiels with metal objects. Oh yea-I polished the rough edge with a fine power sander/polisher. Now I look over it and not through it so haze isn't bothersome.
So in case you guys are wondering-YES you CAN cut down a windshield and make it look good if you take your time.
saved me from pitching a $150 windshield.
Saved me from throwing away
I took it to work and cut 4" off the top with the bandsaw on low speed. It took some time and I traced it out ahead of time-used my stock w/shield as a partial template. It turned out great and looks almost like a factory job. Used masking tape on the cut area and also on the saw so as not to contact the windshiels with metal objects. Oh yea-I polished the rough edge with a fine power sander/polisher. Now I look over it and not through it so haze isn't bothersome.
So in case you guys are wondering-YES you CAN cut down a windshield and make it look good if you take your time.
saved me from pitching a $150 windshield.
Saved me from throwing away