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"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #911  
Our King's Harley's Avatar
Our King's Harley
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From: Fredericksburg Texas
Default Tour Pack Detail...

I started with a dirty interior with the inside lid in a silver color with a half torn weight decal, old Velcro strips and some gooey stuff...Looked like crap when open...So with a can of black epoxy (had it to paint a scratch on our black fridge) a Scotch Bright pad, razor blade and a solvent to clean everything up...Now I feel better when its open...Really cleaned it up and I'm planning on adding some LED's and other things...Didn't cost any more since I used what I found in the shop...
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #912  
Our King's Harley's Avatar
Our King's Harley
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From: Fredericksburg Texas
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To have fun with pictures of your Bikes (and other things) go to picnik.com and mess around...Have your work printed and framed, on t shirts or whatever...
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:47 PM
  #913  
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Snakeboots
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From: Fort Myers Florida
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My opener is 12 volts, but if you have one with a 9 volt battery, you can add diodes in series with the power lead. Each diode will drop the voltage about 3/10 of a volt. My Sears opener only stays on momentarily, so if I leave the high beams on, it will not stay transmitting all the while. Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 01:27 PM
  #914  
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mkguitar
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
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Originally Posted by Snakeboots
My opener is 12 volts, but if you have one with a 9 volt battery, you can add diodes in series with the power lead. Each diode will drop the voltage about 3/10 of a volt. My Sears opener only stays on momentarily, so if I leave the high beams on, it will not stay transmitting all the while. Good luck.

rather than a diode, a resistor is the correct device to drop voltage.
a diode has a another purpose, if it drops the voltage at all that is incidental.
Diodes act as "one way" gates--- the current can only flow one way through them, they are used to prevent current from backing up in a circuit or to convert AC voltage to DC volts via a diode/rectifier

if you use an iphone/pad/touch, the electrical toolkit app can give you the correct resistor values for just about any task

B.) with most garage door systems you only want to send a momentary signal- for the door to move- sending a continous radio signal will only make confuse

best system for this task is a simple relay wired to the high beam switch- lots of the correct circuit designs out there

mike
 

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #915  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
rather than a diode, a resistor is the correct device to drop voltage.
a diode has a another purpose, if it drops the voltage at all that is incidental.
Diodes act as "one way" gates--- the current can only flow one way through them, they are used to prevent current from backing up in a circuit or to convert AC voltage to DC volts via a diode/rectifier

if you use an iphone/pad/touch, the electrical toolkit app can give you the correct resistor values for just about any task

B.) with most garage door systems you only want to send a momentary signal- for the door to move- sending a continous radio signal will only make confuse

best system for this task is a simple relay wired to the high beam switch- lots of the correct circuit designs out there

mike
Well since I was not sure if mine was putting out a continuous signal I did the timed relay. I can set it for as long of a pulse as I want. It also triggers in both directions which is nice. so whatever beam I am on when I flip the switch it sends the signal. high to open, low to close or vise versa depending what beam I have on when i hit the driveway.

Great mod...I love it!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:01 AM
  #916  
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GolferinOK
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From: Edmond, OK
Default Garage Door Opener

Originally Posted by relli
great idea! i bought a garage door opener remote-split the case and wired a momentary switch to it. drilled a hole in the bottom of my windshield bag for the switch, put the remote in the bag. works great for about 20 bucks.
I did a similar option: I have a gate and a garage door - Split the case, mounted it under the fairing and ran / wired two momentary switches above the tach and speedo.

2007 Electra Ultra Classic
Woodie Wallace
Edmond OK
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:08 PM
  #917  
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From: Northern California
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Ever notice the underside of your chrome footboards? They are really difficult to polish...pitting and rust soon will set in. To avoid the inevitability I used Permatex Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating available at many auto supply stores and home improvement stores for around $5.

Remove the floorboards from the bike. Mask around the chrome sides and use a sharp blade to cut around the indentations. Stick a pencil through the mounting holes, and wooden match sticks through the weep holes. Cut off the excess material. You are now ready to go with the undercoating.

Per instructions, use a light coating and allow 20 minutes between coats. I put on four coats. My coats were "not light"...and took a couple of days to dry in the sun.

FYI, most floorboards are mounted with two 5/16 inch shoulder bolts with a 1/4 inch x 20 thread and a 3/16 inch hex head cap. The serrated flange nut (1/4 inch x 20 thread) takes a 7/16 inch wrench to remove.


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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 09:07 AM
  #918  
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ssmith579
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From: Ventura, CA
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My solution for the garage door opener was to buy a lever switch at Fry's for $2.50 and buy a small remote from Home Depot for $25. Open the remote and solder wires from the switch of the remote to the lever switch, connectors in between so I can replace switch. I then tie wrapped the opener inside the fuse panel and used JB weld to glue the switch on the inside of the left heat shield. Now I can just reach down and hit the switch even with gloves on. No drilling, no fairing removal. Took about 15 minutes to put it all together and install.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #919  
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FLHTCU2007Ken
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From: South Bend, IN
Default

Originally Posted by Dorkman
Ever notice the underside of your chrome footboards? They are really difficult to polish...pitting and rust soon will set in. To avoid the inevitability I used Permatex Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating available at many auto supply stores and home improvement stores for around $5.

Remove the floorboards from the bike. Mask around the chrome sides and use a sharp blade to cut around the indentations. Stick a pencil through the mounting holes, and wooden match sticks through the weep holes. Cut off the excess material. You are now ready to go with the undercoating.

Per instructions, use a light coating and allow 20 minutes between coats. I put on four coats. My coats were "not light"...and took a couple of days to dry in the sun.

FYI, most floorboards are mounted with two 5/16 inch shoulder bolts with a 1/4 inch x 20 thread and a 3/16 inch hex head cap. The serrated flange nut (1/4 inch x 20 thread) takes a 7/16 inch wrench to remove.


That's a great idea with awesome innovation but the edges are still susceptible to rust. I drag the left one most every day??? Steel rusts. How do we stop it?

BTW - I'm ashamed to admit I had a 76 toyota corolla heavily undercoated and all it did was hide the holes in the floorboards!!!
 
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #920  
pricera's Avatar
pricera
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
Default New LEDs in Rear

Originally Posted by BlackMarshmallow
Okay, HD will sell you a brake light mod kit for $54.00 to mod the turn signals into brake light helpers. Anybody know a DIY way to do this?
Just saw today that the new HD Rear LED turn signals do this, out of the box, with no module needed. I was gonna go with LEDs anyway, and they will pass inspection, unlike the Kuryakyns (not DOT). Gonna get them when the money grows on my tree.
 
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