I'd say go for it!

I'm not worried about money, but I'm all for getting my money's worth.

When you look at the "System" Jamie is selling you gotta admit right off the top that it's a bargain. It's only 49 bucks more than you would pay for the same compontents without the specially modified baffles.....that 49 bucks buysa custom dyno proven map and priceless friendly support from Jamie.

What you end up with is 1 stock 2 inch Rush slipon, 1 modified 1.75 inch Rush slipon, K&N 3909 air filter, PCIII USB, and custom map from Jamie.

Yeah, you may save a few bucks buying the components off eBay but you would have to buy 2 pairs of slipons to get the correct sizes and then ship one to Jamie to be modded....So if you had a buddy who wanted to split the cost, he could use the other pair of slipons, but you would still end up paying as much or more.

So far, both the IDS and this Stage 1 mod have proven worth every penny.

 

great idea. hooker duals work same way if left side is set to torque and right side set to horsepower.

 

Well, 2d was an old map for the 1.75" baffles. I used 2e last summer and it worked fine, heating up a bit in traffic, in which case I would switch to 2a (Jamie's original) with the map switch. This fall I dropped the cruise range even more (Map 2g), with -10's from 2-3k @ 5-10% TP, and the mileage stayed about the same in the cooler weather. Normally it would've gone down a bit. The side effect was that when cold it surged moderately, which won't hurt anything, but smoothed out when warmed up. Oil never got above 180° with air temps going as high as 82°, so I ran this map up to last Saturday when I installed the new baffles.

I now have renamed Jamie's new map to 3a and my tweak to 3b. See attachment, which shows the result of 3b. In all other blocks not shown, 3a and 3b are identical. Jamie's original is an advanced map, which means both cylinders are tuned individually for a better result. My tweak has what you see in the attachment for both cylinders, which reflects the values in my old Map 2f that was intermediate between 2d and 2g. The practical result is that I can't tell the difference between the two maps (3a and 3b) in performance, and I can do this easily by switching from one to the other on the fly. What needs to be emphasized is that 3b will run hotter in summer weather, especially in traffic, so this may not be the right map for you. I run an oil cooler, which helps control temps in hot weather, too. Last summer I showed normal oil temps at 210° while moving >45mph, up to 220° occasionally, and twice hit 230°. I would switch to map 2a (much richer) and it would keep temps under control in those situations.

As for mileage with 3b, I doubt if it'll be much different from 2g except when the TP is >20%, in which case 3b is richer. I feel no side effects with 3b yet, even when cold. Since I installed 3b and the baffles last Saturday I haven't been able to check mileage, but will report back when I get a grip on it.

I borrowed a PCIII LCD display, which doesn't work right, and I would like to try to make it log TP, RPM, and O2-sensor voltage. This will allow me to determine A/F ratio at any point in the range. That's another project, thought, and like I said this display unit is not working right. So, that project is on hold for now.


[IMG]local://upfiles/4327/88F8000CDECA4601AF94FE5B6B2A7612.jpg[/IMG]

 

I think you'll like the sound level, as I have the same sentiments regarding noise. I want to ride eight hours without my ears ringing and be able to hear the stereo. This kit is perfect for my taste, and I'm elated with the sound quality and level. It is throaty but quieter than the 1.75's I had before, which were borderline. The overall sound is better, too, IMO--without the raspy bark at roll-on.

 

Smundorf already has Rush slip-ons, Ness AC, and a PCIII--so he's sittin' pretty. All he needs is the kit, which is $100 plus shipping.

 

Iclick- just to follow up. I'm wondering if you are using firmware 2.2 or later. I also have the oil cooler and my temp was around the same as yours with 2A (Jamie's map). Why did you start to lean out the map already (3a) Don't you want to put some riding on it before you play with it. Just wondering.

 

I'm running firmware 2.2.2 now, and I've had no issues with the PCIII at all since loading 2.2.0 (beta) last summer. That version nixed the sporadic hesitation I experienced off idle. I don't want to get into an oil discussion, but the oil I'm using is a mix created to decrease engine temperatures and friction, and it works. I've been using it since 1998. Any good synthetic should keep temperatures in control, though.

I can play with 3A by flipping a switch, so it will be the map to use next summer when oil temperatures get too high. I found that as long as I was moving the leaner map would keep temps no higher than 210°. They would escalate in traffic when movement was slow, which is when I would switch to the richer map. It worked okay, but it takes a long time for mixture to translate into engine temperature, so what I did was to try to anticipate heavy traffic and switch early.

Jamie tunes for performance and cooling, but my bike will not run hot this winter with this lean tuning in the cruise range with Map 3B, so there's no reason to waste gas. I can't tell the difference between 3A and 3B in performance. If I didn't have the switch I would need to develop a map for winter and another for summer, with the summer map being a compromise for cooling and mileage. By having two maps to switch between you can have your cake and eat it too.

I didn't mention this before, but I also increased the ignition advance for 3B on both cylinders by 3% in the cruise range. Time will tell if it causes any detonation, but if not it should increase mileage and help with cooling a bit. Playing with advance is tricky, as with newer bikes that use the ion-discharge method for knock sensing you may not know when detonation occurs. What I don't know is exactly what happens when incipient detonation is sensed, and increasing advance may effectively decrease advance if the system is constantly sensing detonation and retarding the timing to compensate. The problem is you may never hear it, so doing this may not be a good idea. Last summer I increased advance 5% and didn't notice any difference in mileage, so maybe I should use that as a lesson and leave it alone.

 

You can save 100.00 on Ebay at American Classic motors on Ebay on the Rush pipes if yer interested. They just take their time shipping.

 

The pipes you are referring to are not the same pipes as being described in this thread.The new Rush / Fuelmoto mufflers are a special design by Jamie of Fuel Moto.I just recieved and installed mine on my SG and all I can say is "AWESOME" The sound and performance are unbelievable, and I cound not be happier . They spent many hours perfecting this combination and I give them aHUGE A+.I myselfas well as several others from my riding grouphave dealt with Fuelmoto several times over the last few years and have to commend them on their commitment to motorsports with their products and top notch service.

 

Jamie is the best person/company to deal with. I should have my baffles today. I will have to wait for the snow to melt before I can fully enjoy them. Iclick thanks again for all you help and usefull information