A couple of weeks ago I posted about a problem with high idle / rough idle on my 98 Road King. Received some great help and was able to determine the problem was a bad Engine Temperature Sensor (ETS). Thought I would post the install that I did today.

Ordered the new ETS from Zanotti, part number 32446-95A.($74)



Location of the ETS is in on the top of the front head. Hard spot to reach. (Disconnected battery before any work was done)



Did a partial removal of the gas tank. I drained the tank (darn thing was full) using the crossover tube in front..what a mess, but it worked. Removed the two front and one rear bolts holding the tank. Lifted up the front and stuck rags underneath to hold it up.



Tried to get at it without removing coil, but couldn't get at the connector on the top of the ETS without taking the coil off too.



Using a very small screwdriver, unhooked the clip on the connector and
unplugged it from the ETS. Visually check wires and condition of connector.



Using a 3/4 deep socket, removed the ETS from the cylinder.




New and Old ETS together.




Here is the new ETS installed.




Reconnected the wire connector to the top of the ETS socket.




Reattached the coil, gas tank and battery. Filled the tank and checked for leaks. I took her out for about a 15 mile test run and she ran perfect. No high idle or roughness. I have been so frustrated for months with this problem and it felt great to ride her and have the problem gone. It was about 80 degrees so I want to see how she does in the morning when it a little cooler. (I know all you snow bound winter readers will not like that last comment...sorry). Total time was about 2 hours, but part of that was draining the gas and stopping to take pictures.

Really appreciate all the help and info I get here and wanted to share this to help others that may go through this.

 

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have a 96 EGC and having the same problem. My sensor just showed up at the door today and
I was having problems locating it. Now I can get busy with the replacement.

 

thank you for detailed write-up.

 

CEWOOD, excellent writeup and great pics. I'll be replacing the same sensor on my '96 UC tomorrow if the stealer parts man lives up to his word. Got the tank back out of the way today. Wish I had seen your post first. Would have saved some time and worry. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

 

Thanks for the post. I just got thru changing out my ETS and the pics and instructions helped save me some time and aggravation. I would like to add that I did not remove any of the fuel lines to do the job. I worked the crossover tube under and behind the coil as I lifted up the tank, which I also held up with rags.

Not too bad of a job. My 98 RKC was idling funny and nearly dying at idle. Red light was coming on and the code was 14 (ETS). Took it for a quick ride after I fixed it and it idles much better and ran great. Mission accomplished.

 

When I purchased the 97 RK some 4 plus yrs. ago the engine would race while
setting at a light and set the SE lite. One of my local stealer sold me the
diagnostic code light, the other said that was a stealer item only. So $50.00
later it gave me the code and I orederd the ETS. As I remember itwas like
less than $100.
Read the manual and didnt want to mess with lifting the tank.
So with the NEW ETS in hand I started working with the a deep well socket
and several socket extensions. But first I took a dental tool and hemostats
and removed the locking connector.
Cant remember just how the combination of deep well and extensions went
in to remove the ETS, but for sure one at a time and it seams I remember
that I used 2 extensions and maybe (as I remember) I could not get the
socket head deep seated in the last extension.
I am not too mechanical, just lazy. And had to remove the ETS with the
hemostats..If I can do it, anyone can...............Tenn.Vol.