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That's what it is...lock tight. I had some trouble getting mine off too. Didn't strip, or break any of them, but I was thinking "why do the use so much thread locker on these dam bolts!"
First make sure you have the right size tork bit (#27).
If it is the kind that fits on a rachet, buy the screwdriver handle
to put it on.
Then using a hammer rap it fairly hard and twist at same time.
More often than not this will break the "set."
May take two or three hits and twists,
They go through hot / cold cycles and set in, plus being tight.
In over 10 years of nothing but Harleys, have only had one that
gave me any trouble.
Have had harley's off and on since the 60's though.
Why are they set so fricken tight? I go to do my 1000 mile on my new Ultra and it turned into a nightmare. They were so tight thatthey totally stipped where I couldn't even tap in the next size wrench. One head just broke off from trying to turn it. That turned out to be the easy one. I knew I was in some deep **** when my easy out snapped off inside one of the bolts. Now that is way too tight. Ended up drilling all the heads off and had to mutilate the derby cover around the bolt that had the easy out stuck in it. Worked until 2 am with dull drill blades but I was not gonna stop. I was way too pissed. When out this morning and bought my new cover. Time to ride.
After dwelling on this for a day I bet the dealer when setting up my bike used a battery drill with the tork fitting set way too high. There is no other way a tork bolt is gonna snap or an easy out snappingin a bolt set anyway near 8 inch pounds. oh well...its behind me...
They come from the factory already installed.The only reason they may take it off is if the clutch needs adjusting.The primary is already full of fluid .
had same problem and the aircleaners where worst broke 2 torques bits before drilling them out.I think it the idiots the dealershipps hire to work on bikes.
This should be a 'Sticky' for all newbies. Change these stinking torx bolts out for socket head cap screws at first chance, or have the dealer change them out before you take delivery.
Just went though this trying to get to my clutch adjuster.
I tried the T28 'hammer it in' technique. NOPE..
I tried the Dremel tool slot for big screw driver. NOPE..
Ended up drilling the head off of it. I used a number one (#1) size drill. 0.228" diameter. I suppose you could use up to a 1/4" to get the job done. I just drilled in far enough to seperate the head from the shank of the screw.
I had to do this on 2 of five screws. My 20 minute job turned into 2-1/2 hours and I now need to go buy some chrome screws and swap out the black ones I had at home. Before they rust!
I had to drill out two on my 09 at 1000 miles. After the head was off backed them out with my fingers
Never had any problem with mine..change the primary fluid every 3k or so...torque to speck and in sequence...dont use any loc tite either...never had a stuck bolt or leak...
i don't have any problem with mine either. when putting it back together, do not use loc-tite, use anti-seize, and torque it to the proper value. change my primary fluid every 10k.
I've had to drill some out before and I've broken a dozen torx heads a well. After owning 5 different harleys I finally found the trick to removing these pain in the asses within seconds.
The trick is: Do not attempt to remove the bolts when the bike is Cold. Run the bike up to operating temp (read hot) first then park it and immediately use a quality T27 and they will back right out. Works for me everytime on any new bike. I hope it works for ya'll... I got so comfortable with doing it this way I even reuse the torx when assembling the thing back together!
Yes, adjust your clutch cold. So I usually break the bolts loose then go back in the house and let the bike cool off before performing the clutch adjustment procedure.
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