OK, I think I know the answer here, but want to make sure. I finally got my new Lyndall brake pads in for my 08 Ultra and will be putting them on this weekend. I've read the manual a couple times to make sure I know what to do, it looks easy enougth, but it doesn't specify whether or not to use loctitie and the 2 caliper bolts when I put it all back together....I assume I should, but you all know what the word "assume" means. So I thought I would check with Ya'll experts before I do it. By the way, if you haven't seen it FASTHARLEY (Howard) has a good set of instructions for replacing the rear brake pads on his web site with some very good pictures.

 

Negative!
No Loctite on pad bolts. The pre-loaded springs are enough to keep them from unbolting.

You'll play hell getting them out next time.

 

i wouldnt do it either. plus you should be able to tell if loctite was on there previously.

 

If you do loctite now you will hate yourself when it comes time to change the pads again!

 

Thanks guys, I was planning to check the bolts when I take them out, but thought it wouldn't hurt to check here too. Looking forward to getting rid of the rear brake squeal, but am also hoping that I can get a better fit on the front wheel to eliminate all the drag that it currently has. I vaguely remember someone talking about aligning the front brakes to eliminate the drag, but so far haven't been able to find more detail on how to do it. I did see a reference to the fact that the fluid reservoir might be too full, so I'll check that too.

 

Use AntiSieze on caliper bolts!

 

I see you got your answer on Locktite and I might add I usually don't use locktite on anything bolted to aluminum. The other thing I wanted to mention was the procedure for doing brakes that alot of people don't understand. Make sure you take the cover of the brake resevoir and push back the caliper pistons all the way back in before you putthe new pads on. If you don't do this your brakes will drag and burn /warp your rotors while you also trash the new pads. The pads will then self adjust to the correct clearance when you pump the brake levers after assembly. This applies to both front and rear brakes. I also clean my rotors with rubbing alcohol about every 1000 mi to get the road grime off and keep the pads from glazing over.

 

Fast Harley also has a nice write-up with pics of cleaning the caliper pistons with brake cleaner--highly recommended if your bike has some miles on it--otherwise the calipers tend to stick andrequire more pressure tofunction leading to what seems like a soft brake lever.

 

+1 on cleaning the pistons. Here is the procedure I have used:


http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm

Notice the Loctite? Hmmm...I have never used Loctite, but according to Lyndall you should.

 

I also agree with the anti sieze response. I always use anti sieze on them and any dissimilar metals to prevent galling.