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What affects the differences between cable/TBW bikes on the dyno?
Not sure if I have read a definitive answer on this, but people have suspected the actual throttle body as one of the bottle necks. It is different than the cable throttle body last used in '07. Maybe Harley Tuner has some ideas?
If stock TBW opens all the way then it isn't a restriction. With cars, and probably bikes, going with a larger throttle body is usually detrimental unless you're flowing significantly more air than stock. Even heads/cam may not justify it.
I'm thinking of going to the S&S 106" drop on kit this winter. I'm a little light on compression for the 590's and the extra bore in the S&S kit would put me right where I need to be. If I do it, I will probably send this throttle body to HPI for their upgrade work. We'll see as this combo runs very well.
If stock TBW opens all the way then it isn't a restriction. With cars, and probably bikes, going with a larger throttle body is usually detrimental unless you're flowing significantly more air than stock. Even heads/cam may not justify it.
There is probably a formula, I'm sure.
The cabled throttle bodies will open up 100% instantly. the TBW bike "ramp" open, takes a second or so, so that is (was) a big draw back. The SE pro Super Tuner, TTS Mastertune and I believe the new PC Vision have throttle progrestivity adjustments that will take the delay out, so if you have one of these tuners and it is set up correctly the TBW throttle bodies work just as well as the cabled ones. I polished mine and have had great results, although I am going to be swaping out for an HPI 54 mm in the near future. As of now I am running my stock (46 mm) on my 07 with a 110".
The progrestivity issue shouldn't effect peak numbers though, right? Even if it isn't adjusted to work like a cable, the butterfly is fully open well before the motor would make peak power I would think.
I'm wondering if the overall design of the FBW pieces just don't flow as well as the cable tb's?
Zach
Thanks for the PM. I'll let you know. Interesting alternative.
I'm thinking of going to the S&S 106" drop on kit this winter. I'm a little light on compression for the 590's and the extra bore in the S&S kit would put me right where I need to be. If I do it, I will probably send this throttle body to HPI for their upgrade work. We'll see as this combo runs very well.
Zach
I'm fixing to go to 107 on my bike. The pistons and jugs are ready to go (CP forged with 3cc popups), The heads are ported and milled for ACRs, I just need to do the last little bit of cleanup on them, and I'll be bolting it all up sometime in the next few weeks. I'd like to get the bike tuned down at Latus, and don't want to be riding down there in December.
Ah, I'll have to check with Thundermaxx to see if they adjust for the progressiveness of the TBW.
I havn't tuned a Thundermax for a TBW bike yet, but yes, I do believe they have throttle progresstivity adjustments, ithey may call it something else though
The progrestivity issue shouldn't effect peak numbers though, right? Even if it isn't adjusted to work like a cable, the butterfly is fully open well before the motor would make peak power I would think.
I'm wondering if the overall design of the FBW pieces just don't flow as well as the cable tb's?
Zach
Thanks for the PM. I'll let you know. Interesting alternative.
It actually effects it more that what you would think. When the butterfly's open all the way instantly, it makes more power in the lower RPM's and it carries some of it up to peak RPM's. Not to mention, when you are tuning a TBW bike that doesn't have it turned up, for a wide open pass you have to tune the 60%, 80%, and 100% throttle position at certain RPM's to get your air fuel set right. For instance, a TBW bike twisted wide open at 2000 RPM's might go to around 60% TP from 2000 to say 3200 RPM's, then get near 80% TP untill, say, 4200 RPM's then finally go wide open at 100% to the rev limiter. A proper tune means that you would ajust the 60, 80n and 100% VE colums from 2000 tp 3000 RPM's, the 80 and 100% VE from 3000 to 4000 and the 100% from 4000 on up
I'm fixing to go to 107 on my bike. The pistons and jugs are ready to go (CP forged with 3cc popups), The heads are ported and milled for ACRs, I just need to do the last little bit of cleanup on them, and I'll be bolting it all up sometime in the next few weeks. I'd like to get the bike tuned down at Latus, and don't want to be riding down there in December.
I got to tell you, I've had 2 tunes done at Latus. One on my old Road King with a 95", S&S 510 cams, BC Gerolamy heads, true duals, PC3. Pretty basic build. It came out pretty good and ran smooth. That was back in 2006. They also tuned my Road Glide with just a pipe, air cleaner, and a SERT (I hadn't done the 103" kit yet) back in 2007. I had to take it back 2 times and it still wasn't right. They could never get rid of a pinging issue at high rpm's under full throttle. I'm not talking about months later in completely different weather conditions either. It did it on my test ride after they said it was done. I finally gave up on them and did the 103" kit then hauled it down to RC Cycles.
I know Latus has a good reputation, but I'm wondering if that rep was established when Mike Stegman was doing the tuning. He's the shop foreman now and rarely gets in the dyno room.
Have you thought about taking it north to Jarz performance? I've heard very good things about them. Don Dorfman (Deweys Heads) recommends them.
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