Breaking her in
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Mark
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The first few longer rides I took I rode backroads mainly. I rode from my house to Winnipesaukee using backroads which was fun. If you can, keep the highway riding to a minimum and mix in plenty of backroads.
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Good luck!
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Well, that should do it. To summarize what we've talked about, here is the sequence we recommend for "proper engine break-in":
[ol][*]Fit the pistons on the tight side of the recommended fitting range.[*]Use good general engine assembly habits, keeping in mind the earlier points we discussed, including ignition timing, carburetion and maintenance.[*]On initial engine startup, don't just sit and idle the motor while you admire your work or tinker with minor adjustments. Heat buildup at this point can be excessive.[*]The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Most engine damage will initially occur during this period. Remember that if proper ring seating does not take place, the resultant blow-by will set the stage for possible future damage because there won't be sufficient oil on the cylinder walls for proper lubrication. So keep the heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. And vary the speed.[*]The next 500 miles should be spent running the engine no faster than 3500 rpm or about 50-55 mph. Do not lug the engine and continue to vary the speed.[*]Up to 1000 miles, the speed can be run up to 60 to 70. Continue to run the engine at different speeds including the lower 4~5 mph ranges. When the 1000 mile mark is reached, most Evolution engines should be broken in. Evolution engines tend to run slightly cooler\\; and therefore do not require as long a break-in period as earlier engines using iron cylinders.[*]From 1000 to 2000 miles basically use the same procedures as before, but you can be a little more liberal with the rpm range. Avoid overheating the engine and putting any hard strain on it (drag racing, trailer towing, sidecar operation).[*]2000 miles and up, have fun! Just remember, while our recommendations sound good and normally work, there is no cook book formula for proper engine break-in. Common sense and knowing what is really happening inside those cylinders are the best tools for break-in. We at S&\\;S realize that after riding a stocker, a Sidewinder or Stroker feels very strong and the temptation to "turn it on" is overwhelming, even hard to resist. If this urge to run the engine hard overcomes you before engine break-in is completed, extensive engine damage can result. The obvious way to help prevent sticking the pistons is to give them a loose fit which naturally will detract somewhat from piston life and quiet running. This may be the best route to follow for those riders who want to go fast immediately. Keep in mind though, even loosely fit pistons should be allowed at least 50 to 100 miles of break-in for ring seating purposes. And, pistons and rings fit in this manner will have to be changed more frequently.[/ol]

 \\; \\; \\; \\; Good luck,
 \\; \\; \\; \\; Peter
I tried to vary the speeds as much as I could. I avoided lugging (as you should anyway) and kept speeds in gears to recommended speeds.
The first few longer rides I took I rode backroads mainly. I rode from my house to Winnipesaukee using backroads which was fun. If you can, keep the highway riding to a minimum and mix in plenty of backroads.
Good luck!
This is just my opinion, but I always change the oil and filter at 500 miles, then again at 2k. \\; At 5k I start a regimen of oil changes every 5k. \\; I used fossil engine oil (Castrol GTX or HD 360 20w50 are good break-in oils) for the first change, switching to synthetic at 2k.
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. \\; From 50 to 100 moderate speeds, not letting the bike get too hot. ( no stop and go traffic ). \\; 100 to 1000 keep the rpms under 4000 and vary conditions and RPM. \\; Some highway, so local, just don't set at a single speed for more then about 5 minutes at a time. \\; After a grand change the oil and the motor is pretty much set. \\;
I \\;do not ride 2 up till I have at least 300 on the motor. \\;
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The above is jmho, but I've always ended up with good compression on my motors and never had one fail unless I missed a shift at the track.
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-Harry
I've used this philosophy with many bikes over many years and never had a problem.  \\;






