Installing front fork baffle
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 513
Likes: 2
From: Coconut Creek, FL
RE: Installing front fork baffle
Definitely clean the holes out first. You will probably break the screw head(s) off and have a major hassle getting the broken screw(s) out. Don't ask me how I know.
RE: Installing front fork baffle
Got it on with ease. Went back to the hardware store (we finally have a local hardware store again) and got a 1/4 x 20 self tapping bolt and three stainless steel 1/4 x 3/4 bolts and lock washers. The self tapper worked great to clear the threads. Took a little muscle, but no problems at all. Gonna give it a test ride tomorrow to see if there is a difference.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Installing front fork baffle
Removing the air dam evacuates heated air and provides some relief in 70+ temps. Why whould you put it back on now? I took mine off in the sping,thus allowing \\;more cool air for the top end.
RE: Installing front fork baffle
ORIGINAL: russl179
The kit SHOULD include the two bolts and the self tapping starter screw. Don't get screwed, get what you paid for immediately!
The kit SHOULD include the two bolts and the self tapping starter screw. Don't get screwed, get what you paid for immediately!
I didn't order a kit. I ordered the black baffle which is a stock part on the RG and earlier batwing models. Just a single OEM part. Nothing else.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 6,913
Likes: 87
From:
RE: Installing front fork baffle
I put a chrome one on my RK to keep my beard from blowing upward. Not very much noticeable difference.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 444
Likes: 6
From: Baa Haaba, Maine
RE: Installing front fork baffle
Is everyone sure those are 1/4x20 screws? I had to use metric bolts on my 08 SG...maybe that is why you have to use a tap to clean out the threads first. No tap, no thread chaser, no problem....
