I installed the IED's on my bike soon after bringing it home and liked the slightly smoother idle and better 6th gear cruise. I ordered the X's cause I thought they would be even better but wound up removing them and going back to the originals. I just didn't like the way my exhaust sounded (harsh and raspy) and the way my engine felt (rough?) with the X's installed. Lots of folks are having good results with the X's but they ain't for me.&nbsp\\;

 

I installed the XIED's on my 07 RKC.&nbsp\\; Best MOD one can do, throttle response is great, much cooler and 6th gear does not ping.&nbsp\\; If you install any slip-ons or highflow air filter no need for re-map.&nbsp\\; so save your money from the re-map if you are thinking of the air cleaner and pipes.

 

Hello-
I went with the 14.2 O2s about 3 weeks ago. I didn't even have trouble getting the rear connector out so I guess I was lucky. 5 minute install, smoother idle, different exhaust smell and cooler by "seat of the pants" feeling. I haven't checked mpg yet. I put on the bobvic Max 2 slip ons the same weekend so I'll never know which changed mpg if either. The Max 2s sound great and were only $89!

 

I HAVE A SET OF THE XIEDS SITTIN IN THE GARAGE, IVE GOT TO TAKE THE BIKE TO THE SHOP AND FIGURE ON WAITING TILL I GET IT BACK TO INSTALL THEM. ITS STILL UNDER WARRANTY SO I DONT WANT THEM TO FIND EM,,, BUT IM ANXIOUS TO TRY EM OUT

 

So what's the difference between xied and 02 ied?&nbsp\\; Do you need both or either.&nbsp\\; Which one recommended for stock 2007 RG

 

everything i have read about the xieds for the 07 and 08's are the ticket for better
runnin and cooler engines

 

The XIED makes the bike run a little richer than the IED. I went with the XIED right off the bat. Some are saying they tried both and the one that runs leaner was actually better. Go figure. T.

 

XIED&nbsp\\;makes 13.8 to 1&nbsp\\;air to fuel, O2 IED makes 14.2 to 1 air to fuel.&nbsp\\;Stock air to fuel is 14.8 to 1. So, XIED runs richer than O2 IED, which is still richer than stock.

 

If I were content with the sound of the stock intake/mufflers I would drop the dime on the mild version in a heartbeat (only because it would save me the effort of obtaining the OEM connectors and making them myself). However, making any alterations to the breathing apparatus really necessitates fuel-management work beyond the scope of these devices, in the strictest sense.

In my opinion, between the mild and extreme versions, the mild would absolutely have to be the way to go for a couple of reasons. First, the mild ones have to flirt with the boundaries of the linear range of the sensors as much as I would care to. In order to work properly, there has to be sufficient headroom available. The O2 sensor must (to me) be able to accurately/reliably report both sides of the target value. The extreme cheaters really do have to put the target voltage in the fringe area of what the sensor can reliably report (why my initial reaction to all the thrown lean codes is that this is precisely the cause). Just have a look at just about any NB O2 sensor manufacturer documentation and you will see that the fringe areas in which these extreme cheaters work is very temperature-dependent.

That, in conjunction with the way the cheaters in either form invariably alter the AFV (the second of my couple of reasons, and in itself enough to caution against their use in any case), will produce unwarranted effects in the open-loop areas of operation.

While in a simplistic analysis they do pretty much the same thing as setting the target voltages with a SERT, that is not truly the case. With the SERT, the AFV becomes the factor by which the target voltages are missed while in closed loop. If you target for the output voltage normally produced by 14.6:1, whatever more or less fuel required to achieve that based on the VE values becomes your AFV which is applied across the range of engine operation. If you target for the voltage produced by 14.2:1, deviation from that becomes the AFV. In effect, with the SERT you can alter the target closed-loop AFR without stepping on the open-loop calculations (which are supposedly correct otherwise).

With these man-in-the-middle signal-modifiers, you will cause the AFR to factor in more fuel to meet the programmed voltage targets and this will then factor in that same amount more fuel even in areas that otherwise were already correct [rich enough] outside the closed-loop realm. This is with your stock intake/exhaust at any rate. If you have modified the real VE of your engine separate from what is present in your ECU tables then these devices are a waste of money since (just about?) every other means of (properly) modifying the various fuel requirements do not need or even want these devices installed.

Capisci?

 

Put the XiEDs on my 2007 Street Glide last week. Also put Kuryakyn Crusher slip ons the previous week. All is well with me and my ride! Love the sound, the smooth response, slightly greater torque (seat of the pants),&nbsp\\;the greatly improved idle and the mileage dropped about 10%!
Highly recommend spending the 100 bucks and 5 minutes to install!