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Castrol 75W90 Syntech gear oil, only because it was leftover from another job. Any synthetic gear oil from a MAJOR manufacturer will be ok and will work better than the HD Formula+. I don't like the MOCO's approppach of using synthetic engine oil in the tranny. I use engine oil in the engine and gear oil in the tranny. I do use formula+ in the primary.
i'm confused. first you imply that formula+ is no good, then you go on to say thats what you use.... i don't get it.
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The bottom line is that gear oil is preferable in the gearbox (tranny), and the primary needs only an inexpensive fossil engine oil with few friction modifiers. IMO Formula+ is too expensive to use in the primary, since it is basically a fossil engine oil with some EP added, and is questionable for use in the tranny. At $6.50/qt., or whatever it costs, it is overkill for the primary and at that price you can find a good gear oil to use in the tranny.
For best results, use a high-quality 15w50 or 20w50 synthetic oil in the engine, a 75w90 gear oil for the tranny (preferably synthetic), and any 15w40 or 20w50 fossil engine oil in the primary. I use Castrol GTX 20w50 ($2.50/qt. at Wal-Mart) in my primary. Anything more expensive is a waste of money, IMO.
i run royal purple 20w50 car oil in my o7, from what i have read here on the forum, in oil testing , there is not enough difference in the bike specific oil and the automotive oil, whether its mobile one or royal purple,or, some other quality synthetic. a friend of mine with an 07 run mobile 15w50 in his bike and has all along.
I thought it was bad enough to use 2 (gear and eng.) different types of oil but to use 3 to save 5 bucks. To much work for me i think i will waste the money.
i run royal purple 20w50 car oil in my o7, from what i have read here on the forum, in oil testing , there is not enough difference in the bike specific oil and the automotive oil, whether its mobile one or royal purple,or, some other quality synthetic. a friend of mine with an 07 run mobile 15w50 in his bike and has all along.
Two friends recently upgraded to big-bore kits (TC88 to TC95) and I was present during the process. One had a 2000 EGC with 60k miles running M1 15w50 and the other a 2000 EGS with 50k running Amsoil 20w50 MC oil. The jugs and pistons of neither engine showed any visible wear, and even the piston coating was intact on both. The M1 15w50 is the oil available at Wal-Mart for about $20/5-qt. bottle, and the Amsoil costs considerably more and is not easily accessible.
I ran my last bike ('96 RK Evo) on Royal Purple 20w50 "car" oil (i.e. not MaxCycle) and it is still running today with 115k miles and no change in oil consumption or static compression. It has never had the heads removed, even for base gaskets. If car oil harms MC engines, when will the damage show up in this bike?
Motorcycle Consumer News and American Iron have both done oil tests and conclude that "car oil" is fine for air-cooled MC's. If you look at their forumulas most are nearly identical to the same manufacturer's MC-specific oil, but the latter will cost much more.
The transmission and the primary are two separate boxes! The primary houses the clutch and a sprocket drive chain. Formula+ is a fossil oil containing almost no additives or friction modifiers. It works fine as a primary case lube. The transmission houses gears, bearings \\;and other hard parts under much higher loads . It's lube requirements are vastly different than the sprocket chain and clutch plates in the primary. That's the reason I recomend synthetic gear oil for the transmission and Formula+ for the primary. You can use regular old car oil in the primary, but most car oils contain friction modifiers that can cause wet plate clutches to slip UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS.
I hope that answers your questions.
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