Time for another wobble thread
I think most folks don't think they have the wobble because they don't know how to induce it, or what it feels like when it happens. I didn't know about it until I got on this forum and read about it. I thought it was the normal noises. There have been times I thought I had a flat rear tire on riding previous Ultras.
Let me know if you do or don't feel this after taking the wobble test:
ˇ Go down the road, straight, about 50 to 60 mph, both "hands on the wheel".
ˇ Take your **** and shift it hard to one side. Left or right doesn't matter. Your just trying to make a sudden c.g. shift.
ˇ See if the bike doesn't oscillate back and forth about 3 times.
ˇ If so, you've got the wobble.
My '08 did this from brand new. After installing the Ride Sr8t the bike is solid. Does not oscillate. I can shift my weight hard and the bike feels like it's bolted to the road. Huge difference in the sweepers, and more importantly heavy cross winds. We've ridden 2 up in some hellacious cross winds, 40 mph gust type, bike was stable and steady. Yeah, we got tossed around but never did I feel wobbly or outta control.
Some folks ask if they really need a stabilizer. Need? No. Should you have it for added safety and control? Absolutely. Why doesn't HD address it? 'Cause it costs money. They don't put the $20.00 fork baffles on anymore, why would they design and add the stabilizer?
That's my $1.98 worth.
Does this happen with;
New tires or old tires?
with or without passenger (happened to my buddy with a passenger) but on rain grooves with 5000 miles (1/2 worn?) tires. He has since replaced the rear tire.
In a crosswind?
Fairing models only?
Just curious
Things Ive read and tried are:
Suggestion: Adjust your shock pressure up/down
Action: Adjusted pressure from 5psi to 20 psi in 2 psi intervals
Result: No change
Suggestion: Youre gripping the bars too tightly
Action: Set cruise, held bars with forefinger and thumb on both sides and paid special attention to trying to be steady when turning
Result: No change
(Note: This was NOT safe and NOT smart but I was able to cross this off of my list)
Suggestion: Your air pressure is wrong in your tires
Action: Set air pressure to 40 psi rear, 36 front
Result: Minor change that resulted in correcting wobble below 50 mph. Still experienced problem above 50 mph
Suggestion: Your engine is out of alignment
Action: Had dealer check alignment
Result: No change
Suggestion: Buy a Gold Wing
Action: Not an option
Result: Dont care if Gold Wings oscillate or not
Suggestion: Too much weight in the bags/tour pack will cause this
Action: Emptied everything
Result: No change
Now, here are some things that I have tried that do HELP but dont fully correct the problem.
You MUST maintain or increase speed through the turn. I believe the belt helps maintain tension on the chassis to minimize the wobble. If you chop the throttle at some point in the turn, hang on because its probably going to get ugly!
Proper path of travel (outside, inside, outside) helps also but I believe this is due to not putting as much lateral load on the chassis and allows you to roll the throttle on earlier in the turn.
Carrying the wife on the back minimized the oscillations. Im not sure if it was due to the fact that I have an extra 150 pounds (if she asks, tell her I said shes not an OUNCE over 115) centered right over the trans/swing arm junction or not. It could also be that I take the turns slower for fear of getting pounded in the back of the helmet by her when I drag the boards through the corner. Its almost automatic on her part . Enter corner hot, drag board WHACK Cut that &^%& out and stop laughing at me!! (Wash rinse and repeat) She REALLY hates quick S turns!!

I got some advice from a friend who is VERY familiar with baggers since he has either been a mechanic or a service manager for H/D for a long time. He showed me how the whole rear end is tied together at the trans/swing arm/frame. From what I saw, it is essentially all sitting on rubber isolators and these isolators allow the engine/swing arm assembly to move both horizontally and laterally. This helped me make the decision to add another engine mount to the rear of the engine. I personally bought the TWR after extensive research. This was mainly due to fit, finish and design. Another deciding factor was the support of Tracy on this forum and through our communication. I havent installed it yet since after reading the instructions I found I needed a jack (good excuse to buy one I guess) but plan to as soon as the jack comes in or I can sneak my bike on a lift at the shop when nobody is looking. Id expect that once this is installed, the lateral forces placed on the swing arm/engine/frame assembly will be controlled by the TWR stabilizer and the oscillation will be gone or minimized to the point where it is no longer a threat.
NOW, the interesting part . I havent personally ridden a 09 yet but the reports I am getting from the mechanics and others that have state that the wobble is GONE in the new frame. Now, I didnt really start experiencing mine until just after 1000 miles so the rubber may be stiff enough to mask/eliminate the wobble in a brand new motorcycle. I do believe I saw two engine mounts in the front now vs the one that is on the 08s and older bikes. Time will tell and your mileage may vary but thats my research on the subject
Last edited by txcomp; Aug 7, 2008 at 01:56 AM.
Having sad all that...I still love the damn thing.

Spartan, the Glide-Pro setup is about as close to anything I have found that augments the swingarm bushings.









