High Speed Wobble...When?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,356
Likes: 8
From: Roswell, NM
It sounds like most people on here go over a 100 all the time, so I would think many factors would come into play that not even a brace would completely fix. I guess I don't feel it at around 75-80, so I'm good for now.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 122
Likes: 1
I posted my tank slapper situation a couple days ago. I must admit I am now spooked to ride my '06 Ultra. I am one of those people who do ride at high speed when I travel long distances. The front end shake was so bad that I could have been thrown off the bike at 85 mph if it were just a little worse. Steering head bearings were adjusted with recent service, new(er) tires, tire pressure correct, etc. The shake was not caused by wind over the batwing or by rear frame flex (I was going down a straight freeway). I wonder how much worse the condition would have been if I were traveling two up with a load of weight on the rear for a trip. I wonder what would have happened if I was fiddling with the radio or GPS when the tank slapper occurred. It was a very dangerous and freightening experience. I have been in nearly every risky condition in my motorcyclying life and this is the closest call I have ever had on a bike. This weekend I will begin shopping for a new bike. I assume the new Ultra frame, steering rake, wheel sizes, etc were done in part to fix this tank slapper situation.. Be careful out there guys.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
The problem lies in the rear engine mounts or "isolator donuts" made out of rubber OEM. The back half of the stock bagger literally hangs on 1/4" rubber lip per side under the rear floor board brackets. For a real fix and not a bandaid "stabilizer" see Glide-Pro dot com. Jake has worked on it for over 8 yrs. and has a retrofit kit that solves the "wiggle" within the stock configuration. Check out his online vids where he does the installs including new front engine mount and you will have your eyes opened.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
The problem lies in the rear engine mounts or "isolator donuts" made out of rubber OEM. The back half of the stock bagger literally hangs on 1/4" rubber lip per side under the rear floor board brackets. For a real fix and not a bandaid "stabilizer" see Glide-Pro dot com. Jake has worked on it for over 8 yrs. and has a retrofit kit that solves the "wiggle" within the stock configuration. Check out his online vids where he does the installs including new front engine mount and you will have your eyes opened.
Not all stabilizer kits were created equal, because it seems to me some of them are simply apeing the idea and taking short cuts to achieve it, while the original T-T is best!
Glide-Pro may also work, by using an alternative approach and choice is a good thing, but when selecting one of these be discerning.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
Wording...
I agree there are lots of "fixes" out there. It can get confusing. I was still investigating the problem when I watched the Glide Pro vids on his website and it all became much clearer. The bolt on stabilizers are add ons to the stock Bagger suspension where-in the origin of the "wobble" phenomenon is the OEM rubber "isolator donuts" or rear engine mounts. Glide Pro fixes the problem at the source by eliminating this inherent weakness while a stabilizer leaves the weakness in place and tries to compensate for it with an add on was all I was saying. The swingarm is plenty beefy enough to be stable with the right bushings and bearings and a stabilizer bolt on would not be needed which is why there isn't one there to begin with. I'm getting the Glide Pro system put on this week so I'll let you know how it works. Also one other point is that the so called cleve block bushings on the inside of the swingarm need to be replaced also with something more rigid and durable than the OEM steel sheathed rubber. I'm going with Custom Cycles stainless steel elyptical ( sp?) bearings. What you end up with is a swingarm that has no where to go except up and down like it's supposed to...I hope.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
You're right about the cleve blocks needing replacement. True-Track has a solution for them as well! I actually have a 2007 swingarm in my 1990 Glide, with solid bushes, T-T stabilizer etc.
The front engine mount is even more loose than the rear mounts, and a stabilizer works as well there as it can at the rear. The purpose of the rubber mounts is to isolate engine vibration from the bike and rider, while the stabilizers prevent sideways movement and keep everything straight. Be assured they are an excellent engineering solution and what Erik Buell intended back in the 80s when he invented the system.
The front engine mount is even more loose than the rear mounts, and a stabilizer works as well there as it can at the rear. The purpose of the rubber mounts is to isolate engine vibration from the bike and rider, while the stabilizers prevent sideways movement and keep everything straight. Be assured they are an excellent engineering solution and what Erik Buell intended back in the 80s when he invented the system.
I have seen my 05 FLHR wobble a few times. The first was at around 25000 miles. I was told the steering head needed to be adjusted and that did fix the problem for about 20000 miles. I noticed it coming back and I was on a long trip where i did not get it tightened until I got home and it was the worst I have seen. Wobble detected at 80 mph. Last time I had it adjusted at 60000 miles because it felt a little loose but no wobble yet. Now I am at 74000 miles and it feels fine with no wobble tested up to 110 mph.
Don't let it get loose and it will not wobble.
Don't let it get loose and it will not wobble.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 122
Likes: 1
I fixed the wobble on my '06 Ultra. Traded it for a '10. The wobble really spooked me. Had nothing to do with "ridding style". Front end would just go crazy going down a straight freeway for no reason. New bike is fantastic and very confidence inspiring.
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Stage I
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Still shak'in in my boots...
I just bought a 07 Ultra SE a couple days ago, was out putting my first 50 miles on it cruz'in the highway and at 75 mph she started "the wobble" thru a slight bend. Slowed down and it quit, but about a mile later on a straight shot of new pavement at 80 mph it started again, slowed and it cleared, eased back up to 85 the wobble repeated. Scares the hell out of me and was ready to return the bike until I read all of these threads. I'll check the rear alignment, tire pressure, neck bearings, swingarm bearings and motor mounts.
I'm wondering if anyone runs a 21" front tire (with Renegade rims) and had this same wobble issue. Could this cause the instability too? I have a 85 FXST with the 21", rode over 60k miles and never had a wobble like this Ultra does.
07 FLHTCUSE2, dyno tuned at 113 hp / 115 torque, True Track, lowered Progressive front springs & HD SG air on rear, 21" front tire, runs great!
I'm wondering if anyone runs a 21" front tire (with Renegade rims) and had this same wobble issue. Could this cause the instability too? I have a 85 FXST with the 21", rode over 60k miles and never had a wobble like this Ultra does.
07 FLHTCUSE2, dyno tuned at 113 hp / 115 torque, True Track, lowered Progressive front springs & HD SG air on rear, 21" front tire, runs great!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 17
From: eastern oklahoma
i've not experienced it on my 08 streetglide. i have experience with what we used to call tank slappers, which meant that the front end would get almost to the point oscillating to where the handlebars would feel like they're ready to slap the tank. i hope that doesn't happen on a harley touring, that could turn into a real bad day.