I certainly do not want this to turn into a pissing match between the different stabilizer manufacturers....ie Tru-track, Ride Str8, TWR, Bagger Brace...et al. , but instead would like some sound advice into which of the stabilizers would/should work the most effective due to the design and/or placement of the stabilizer itself.

I don't need anyone justifying their purchase without any viable feedback. Personal experiences are always welcome. Before and after placement replies are also invited, but what I really seek is some replies from a PHYSICS standpoint on which should/would work the best on our baggers.

Please respond in a mature fashion with some sustanance please. I know this may prove difficult since it is not your typical assless chap, full of spam, metrosexual thread, but lets give this an effort. I'm ready to buy but I want to make an INFORMED purchase please.

 

You will need to be more specific in your request for "should/would work best". Best what? Best for the dollar spent, best in the strength of materials, best in the ease of installation, best in the ?????. A "PHYSICS standpoint" is a huge area with no reference to what you are wanting.

 

OK, I guess first hand of business would be an explanation of HOW the flex/wobble occurs on the baggers, then with the various offerings on the market, which would alleviate, preferrably 100% of the aforementioned phenomenon, from a PHYSICS/SCIENTIFIC standpoint. Since the braces vary in their design, and attach themselves differently from these various designs, which would take the most stress AND alleviate the wobble according to its own design.

Thanks for getting the ball rolling Blues.

 

First, I think these devices basically fall into two categories based on design: (1) Those that use the frame cross-member (e.g., True-Track, Alloy Art) and (2) those that don't (e.g., Ride Str8, TWR).

Both use the same basic premise, which is to stop lateral movement of the swingarm without restricting the function of the rear motor mount. All do it in basically the same way except the Alloy Art, which has three heim joints instead of one, all extending longitudinally instead of laterally, which to me is illogical and major overkill. It will restrict both lateral and longitudinal movement, the latter being unnecessary and will certainly serve to increase vibration, which has been born-out by feedback from owners. The only movement that needs to be controlled is lateral, leaving vertical and longitudinal movement undisturbed.

In July 2007 when I made my choice there were basically three players: Ride Str8, True Track, and Alloy Art. At that time there was a clear winner in my view, the Ride Str8. Here are some reasons why I made this selection:

1. No long bolts with standoffs needed to mount the engine end of the heim joint. In my view the long bolts would be continually stressed and might in time cause the bolts and threads to wear or fail. The Ride Str8/TWR bracket mounts to the base of the tranny pan without long bolts and standoffs.

2. No bucket surrounding the tranny pan that lacked breathing holes. The makers of TT claimed it actually made the tranny run cooler because of convection, but I doubt that seriously. The Alloy Art has an open design which IMO didn't have this potential downside, although it still uses long bolts.

3. No clearance issues. TT owners have complained of clearance problems since the cross-member brace extends lower and beyond the cross-member to the right side. Since this is a hard contact point unlike the kickstand and floorboards there is the possibility that when this contact is made and made firmly it could raise the rear wheel off the ground in a corner. This is not a good thing.

4. Does not use the cross-member and thus doesn't interfere with jacking. You might not have a problem with this with some jacks, but I have a lever jack that I use to raise my rear-end for cleaning, and it might not work with the TT installed since this jack fits inside the cross-member.

I think the best design is the Ride Str8/TWR type for the reasons given. These two appear functionally identical and I would consider whichever is least expensive. At last check the TWR cost $10-20 less that Ride Str8. The Ride Str8 does require some partial disassembly of the exhaust system, but it isn't extensive and I wouldn't think it would be a big issue. I don't know if the TWR requires the same procedure, but since one of the swingarm-bracket bolts won't come off without pulling the exhaust outward I would think it requires the same ritual. Since the cross-member-mounted kits don't require this step, they would almost certainly be easier to install.

We still have the same two categories today IMO but with more players in each, and I will still side with the design that does not mount inside the cross-member or use long bolts and standoffs. I wrote-up my install here with photos.

Link to Ride Str8 write-up

After one year of use I've noticed that the bolts that attach to the heim joint are rusting slightly, and I would think that in a $460 kit (now much less) that I would have been given SS bolts. Judging the from the Ebay photo, the TWR bolts look coated also. This isn't a big issue since you can't see the heim joint anyway, but SS bolts would be a worthy upgrade IMO.

 

Excellent response, thanks for that. Does the TWR interfere with the use of a center stand?

[QUOTE=iclick;3757206]First, I think these devices basically fall into two categories based on design: (1) Those that use the frame cross-member (e.g., True-Track, Alloy Art) and (2) those that don't (e.g., Ride Str8, TWR).

 

Bob, many thanks for your insightful reply. I do understand that conveying your message and ideas with the strokes of the keyboard can prove laborous, but I do thank you for your reply.

I have a question for you, that being, since you went with the Ride Str8 and should have many more miles on it since your write-up, have you spent some time in the twisties and has it cured your "wobble" and to what percent? Thanks

 

I also agree that the lateral movement is what is to be corrected, therefore, which unit.....ie....crossmember mount vs. side mount.......would do the job in alleviating the wobble on a bagger THE BEST from a Physics standpoint. I'd really like to hear from a Mechanical engineer or Physicist on this point.

Do we have any Physicist or Engineers in here? In my own finite thinking the side mount should prove to be the Oxen of choice, but I'm not sure.

 

It may also be laborious reading my long-winded responses, and hopefully there isn't too much unnecessary or redundant material in them. I'm heavy into details and lack the ability to write short, succinct messages.

I should've mentioned that. I would say that it eliminated 99% of the rear-end wagging that I noticed before the addition, and it is no longer something I feel in sweepers. At the time of the install I felt I had gotten my money's worth for $460, but now that prices have come down thanks to increased competition I would certainly recommend one of these for any pre-'09 FLH.

I never considered this tail-wagging behavior in sweepers to be a safety issue, but I do ride in a spirited manner at times and just don't like the feel.

 

[QUOTE=tcp;3757240]Excellent response, thanks for that. Does the TWR interfere with the use of a center stand?

The TWR unit does not interfere with my Wheeldock Center Stand.



As far as the physics go . . . I can't tell you that.

Does it work? . . . absolutely.

Hope this helps.
Steve

 

I understand the True Track is not compatible with center stands that mount on the cross-member, so I assume that none of those that mount in that location are compatible. The TWR does claim that "It will work with ez-up ride off center stand," and I saw no info one way or another on the Ride Str8 site.