Don't say add the cam of your choice when 3/4's of the cams out there won't work. Geesh! talk about miss information.

 

Nearly all of my riding with my bagger is between 2 and 3k RPM. Most peak hp graphs with big bore builds peak out around 5k rpm. What good does that do when I never go there?

The HD 103" build with the SE 255 cams and stock 96" heads, cranks out 80-90% of the max avail torque(105 ft lbs) in the 2200 to 3000 RPM range, which is exactly where my bike lives all the time. Granted they torque really falls off big time after about 4400 R's, but who cares? I never go there anyway.

As I said earlier, it is a great build for the money, really gives passing torque and start-up on a hill grunt and hopefully the last build I will need. And, I havn't paid a penalty in fuel economy. It gets the same 40-42 MPG on 91 octane.

 

Not to mention, stock heads sent out to a reputable shop like say Head Quarters or anyone of several others would be cheaper and yield WAY better results.
Screamin' eagle heads are probably your worst bang for the buck

 

your 96 with completely reworked heads, chromoly pushrods, and a gear driven S&S 510G would really help her out! Of course the SE pushrods, SE primary gear down kit and SE pressure plate will get her rolling nicely. Arlen Ness Big Sucka and a SERT with DYNO tuning. Ihave this setup on my FXDI and she really moves.

 

Be careful of mixing and matching parts. 100hp and 110 tq is peanuts for a well built and very rideable 103. Done right, you should be in the 115/120 area for hp and tq. Last 103 I built was 112hp, 118 tq, peak tune was 120/121 but had to back it down a bit for high temp riding. Last 95 I did was 102/112.

Check into the kit builds from a reputable builder such as Headquarters. They wont steer you wrong, will only recommend what you need and their kits produce reliable, repeatable results.

If not Hq, then check into others but DON'T rely on the dealer to steer you in the right direction. Talk to three different dealers, you will get three different recommendations as far as a build to get what you want.

And I am not bashing dealers, but most really dont have a good high performance guy, they just sell that parts off the shelves and install 'em. Headwork is an art, and mass produced HD stuff is hit or miss as far as quality. Check into HQ doing your heads, or a set of R&R heads, you wont be disappointed.

 

In the pre-EPA era, auto manufacturers offered engine options using the same basic engine with different cams, etc.: Chevrolet 327's in 250, 300, 350, and 365 hp versions. Or different displacement engines with different cams and hp versions: e.g. 396 Camaros; 427 Vettes; etc.

A quality aftermarket HD engine component vendor essentially does the same thing the auto factories used to do: take the basic engine and enhance its performance with no sacrifice in reliability or fuel economy. In fact, the aftermarket HD vendor arguably improves the reliability because the components used are better than OEM, the machining is precise and not mass-produced; ditto the assembly work.

Good luck with your research and decision.

 

I'm running a 103ci in my Heritage with 260 cams and ported SE heads. It gives me 105hp and 107tq. It's a real strong runner. Looking at a 2009 SG. The dealer offers what he calls the Dominator kit. It's a 107ci build that gives about 97hp and 100tq. It's only about $3K including Rinehart exhaust and SE air cleaner.

 

Sounds good....if you're going to do it, why not put the biggest pistons you can in there? You need big pistons to offset all that stroke. That's why you hear people complain about how the 96 won't rev up like an 88....because you have an 88 piston with a LONG stroke.

I still stand by my contention that the power is in the heads.

~Joe

 

"I still stand by my contention that the power is in the heads."

I'm not an engine man, but I can say for a fact with a dyno hp and torque graph to prove it, that a HD 103 stage II with 255 cams, SERT, rinehardts, se air cleaner BUT STOCK 96" HEADS, will produce about 25% more horsepower...than the bone stock out of Milwalkee 96" motor factory tuned '08 FLHTCU. So, you can get it without changing heads, and there is where the money is in the modified head work. You are looking at another $1400 for SE heads. And the heads make the increase at RPM's, not at the bottom end grunt where these 96's are a weak sister..

The main reason I didn't go with any larger bore kit than the 103" is longevity of the bottom of the motor. Less power pulse stresses on the crank the better, I figure.

 

Big +1 on the heads. I picked up a pair of the better flowing 06 heads to be sent out to Bean at Big Boyz to get done for my 99.