Alright, I tried to figure it out on my own, but I just don't know where to go. I have a '05 rk custom. I bought a set of used 95" pistons/cylinders, and was given some used cams. It took me a long time to finally work up the nerve of trying the big bore on my own.... and, I f***ed it all up. I'm not sure how badly, though. I am thinking that it might just be something simple, as I followed the manual to the letter... minus one little important detail...

I had the cams pressed in at a local shop for $30. I tore down the bike, got the old cylinders/pistons out, and installed the new (to me) 95" cylinders/pistons. I went to put the cams in. I didn't need to remove the oil pump, so I didn't, which means that the o ring at the rear, on the crank, is still the original (10k miles before I began). The rest of the o rings, and gaskets, are new cometic.

The bike fired up without a hitch (and sounded freaking great). I went out to take it for a ride, and noticed that the oil light was staying on... not good. Figure I have an oil issue. I still took the bike up the block. I noticed that the bike seemed to lack power. Like it was bogged down. So, I rode back into the garage, and killed the engine. I can't think of what I did wrong... other than one thing. I made sure that both cams where lined up, and that the crank was inline with the rear cam. Everything was spot on. I was actually amazed I got it lined up so perfectly, on the first go round. But... that one "little" thing I f***ed up was the pushrods. I kept the stock (solid) pushrods. Figuring a straight switch would be the smart thing to do. I had a buddy of mine helping me out. He has a lot more experience (with cars), so I thought his help would be, well, help. Thing is, when it came to installing the pushrods, we did it wrong. I had the manual, but didn't realize I messed up the install of them until after I had oil issues. What we did was, when we did the pushrods, we installed them at TDC, NOT BDC. Then torqued down the rocker assemblies.

Now, I haven't pulled it back apart, but I am wondering that since I put the rods in at the wrong cylinder position, I probably bent them. BUT, could that have anything to do with the oil light being on? AND, what about the "bogged" down feeling? Could all that be related to the rods? Also, I know I had the crank in the correct alignment, but could I have been 360* off? Meaning, can I just remove the cam cover, take the outer chain and gears off, rotate the crank another turn? would it make a difference at all?

I am at a loss at where to go. Should I tear down the entire bike. Meaning the rocker covers, and cam plate, and start over? Or, can I just cut the pushrods out, buy some adjustables, and put them in correctly? Or, is it possible there is another issue? Any ideas of where I should go from here? I haven't started the bike since I rode it back in the garage. But, I need to get it back up and running. BTW, the only mods done to the carb is I installed a thunderslide kit. When I installed the jets, I used the larger ones that they recommended for a 95", so I think I am good there.

Help me out all you engine guru's... I am lost.

 

Wow....the first big mistake was not shutting it down right away (like instantly!!!) after the oil pressure light didnt go out. You would be very surprised at just how quickly damage can be done with no or very little lubrication, but hopefully you had at least some assembly lube on the parts.

It sounds to me like you got the valve timing set correctly, but the push rods will need replacing for sure. The fact that the push rods were not correctly installed could very well be the reason for the sluggish throttle response....or it could be the fact that there is no oil pressure?

You may have a bent valve, but if you didnt hear any hammering sounds from the top end I think your ok in that dept???

 

Papa,
First of all, installing the pushrods like that, u could have some major issues with your rocker arm/ supports as well as bent valves. The cams have to be on the base circles,(pistons preferably @ TDC) before the rockers are TQ'd down. First U could strip out the rocker arm support threads in the heads, and 2, could bend a valve and/or pushrod(s).
Also confirm your valve timing on primary sprockets as well as secondary, an easy check to confirm.
I strongly suggest getting adjustables, (doing the install it right this time) then doing a compression test and leakdown test to determine if you have caused any additional engine trauma.
All of this still doesn't determine your oil press. issue. Make sure the pump is assembled correctly and it is ALIGNED. This is very important to attain good pressure. A good idea is to "wet" motor the engine with spark plugs out to get pressure prior to light off. This way you will be sure if you have oil pressure.
Good Luck

 

when you took off the camplate did you have a oil pump gear and spacer come out of the oil pump.
sometimes they will stick to the camplate itself.
I have seen the gear get put back in the oil pump then the spacer causing oil pressure issues.

 

I'm not sure because I run a Feuling Oil Pump..but to install that, there's an o-ring that goes between it and the camplate.
Does the Harley oil pump also have that o-ring?
If so, did he miss it?
As for the pushrods..yup, change em.
If you did any damage to your rockers or rocker supports...PM me for a price on mine.
They have 8000 miles on them. I'm running Jim's roller rockers & Delkron supports...no longer need my stocks.

 

This happens quite a bit.

Sluggishness increases as rpms increases, could be sumping due to the pump.

If you didnt have any backfiring, or excessive valve train noise you just may be alright with the pushrods and valves. I would start with the oil pump first and then move on to the other things.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys. Dalton, I had not thought about sumping. As far as the large o ring on the outer surface of the oil oump, I did change it out. And, when the cam came out, the inner gear did come out, but I can't say that I remember a spacer? I think I am just going to have toi rip the cam chest open, and see.

One thing that "heliKenny" said. The cams have to be at BDC, and the pistons at TDC before torqueing down the rockers. OK. I know that the pistons were up all the way in the cylinder I was working on, when I torqued down the rockers. Then I rotated the piston in the other cylinder to it's highest position, and torque down that rocker support. I guess that is where I am confused. If the cylinder is up as high as it can be, aren't the cams also at TDC, or are they at BDC... How can I tell when the cams are at BDC... I am confused.

 

Watch the lifters. When you are rotating the motor over the lifters will drop down at BDC.

 

PapaTravis,
Don't get confused with these terms. TDC (Top Dead Center) refers to the Piston location in the cylinder. Bottom of the cam base circles, refer to the cams. You just want to be at the lowest point on the cam (opposite the top of the lobe). Watch the lifters rise and fall while turning over the engine by hand. when the lifter is at the lowest point this is what u want.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

If you installed the pushrods and tightened everything down with them at the top of the cam lobe, you still may be alright if you turned the engine over by hand as eventually the lifters will bleed down to the proper lash. If you did one cylinder and then the other in rapid sucession you would have had trouble turning the engine by hand if the valves were hitting the piston tops. Not saying you dont have issues but again, check the oil pump first, make sure that when you pulled things apart that the pump housing didn/tslide out a bit and the o-ring did either did fall out or get torn as you pushed everything back in. Check to ensure the gerotors and spacers are in the proper order.