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Just put mine on. I guess I had bumped the skid pan on a speed bump and pushed it up a bit. Took a screw driver and pried the pan down some. Hooked the back lip of the stand to the back of the skid pan and pushed it up and put the bolt in and tighten. I also had a problem getting mine forward enough do to the distorted skid plate. Used a BFH and got it forward and installed the bolt. Took me 15 minutes. Works great. Now for the Arnott air ride comming in the mail. That will take a little longer.
I was out riding today and thought I had better give everyone a heads up. When this center stand touches down it does it HARD! I hit both sides a good whack. That'll wake your a$$ up
This is the left side. It hit where the shiny spots are, top and bottom.
This is the right side. Same thing except a little bit harder!
Be careful!!
Marc
Last edited by marcparnes; Dec 4, 2008 at 07:13 PM.
Im having a problem with the install on mine. The two tabs on the back angle piece that slips over the flat part of the frame seem to be too far apart. I can them both between the frame tubes at the same time. I guess I need the dunce cap.
I was out riding today and thought I had better give everyone a heads up. When this center stand touches down it does it HARD! I hit both sides a good whack. That'll wake your a$$ up
This is the left side. It hit where the shiny spots are, top and bottom.
This is the right side. Same thing except a little bit harder!
Be careful!!
Marc
Marc,
Did the stand touch down before your floorboards did or were you already dragging your floorboards a little before the stand touched down? (And thanks for the warning.)
That is a very good question. It seemed to me at the time that the floor boards and the stand hit at the same time. In other words, I wasn't dragging the floor boards and then went for a little bit more. If the boards touch I immediately correct my line. This can obviously be really dangerous. The stand legs are so far inboard toward the center line of the bike that it wouldn't take a helluva lot of leverage to lift the bike off the tires. I need to figure out how far I can go before they hit.
I really do like to ride it fast in the twisties. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly you can hustle this big hunk of iron around. I've got a GS with virtually unlimited peg clearance and I ride that on the same roads at higher speeds obviously but taking the Harley through the same route is actually more fun We have a 375 mile loop we do weekly through the back country of San Diego which is nothing but twisties with no traffic mid-week. Let's just say I had a lot of fun today! Before buying the '09 I rented a '07 and ran the same route. The difference in handling and stability between the two bikes is phenomenal. Remember the orange RG that was tested by all the magazines a few months ago? I supplied the '07 for the test and got to ride both of them back to back. I had to have one after that experience
I was out riding today and thought I had better give everyone a heads up. When this center stand touches down it does it HARD! I hit both sides a good whack. That'll wake your a$$ up
Be careful!!
Marc
The Street Glide is lowered and will naturally have less clearance on cornering than bikes with stock height suspensions. I dont think my skill or confidence allowed me to get the Street Glide (I used for testing) down as far as you do. The only way I was able to touch anything was by turning into a drive which went sharply uphill. The footboards and the corners of the feet seemed to touch at the same time. On slow deep cornering I never could duplicate this situation. At higher speeds there is more loading of the rear suspension caused by G forces and road irregularities which causes the suspension to compress further. On the pre 09 versions I offer four different heights because the feet have room to go up higher which gives more clearance for super lowered bikes. On the new frame with the crossover pipe we have much less room to tuck the feet up and out of the way. Because of the limited room we have to work with I will not offer a stand for the 09s which have been lowered beyond the one inch shorter shocks like on the Street Glide. How much air pressure have you got in the rear shocks? Just curious.
Hey Rod,
I'm running 13" Progressive 440s so the height is the same as the EG. I've got them set to 1.250" loaded sag per Progressive's recommendation. What I need to figure out is if the boards hit first since they would make for an audible warning. If they don't hit first I think it might be a good idea for me to modify the board mounts so that they DO hit before the stand does. That way I would know when to back off. BTW, the stand is a very nice piece of manufacturing.
Marc, I'm also very interested in hearing if you can confirm if the center stand scrapes before the floorboards or not. Like you I ride aggressively in the twisties and find it very easy to scrape the floorboards on my standard '09 FLHR. Would prefer not to have to worry about levering the wheel off the ground
Last edited by Twinrider; Dec 4, 2008 at 11:38 PM.
I believe any center stand would be incompatible with very agressive riders on twisties, not just the wheeldock stand. My riding is very low key, long distance touring, I doubt I or someone who has my riding style would ever have any kind of problem with this issue and some riders and center stands would just be like a bad marriage.
I would agree with that statement. If you consistently touch your floor boards down you're probably going to be dragging the centerstand as well. I'm taking my wife for a ride in the mountains on Sunday. I'm curious how easily things will drag with her aboard. I'll be sure to increase the shock preload accordingly. I was also thinking to touch up the areas that have hit and then do a controlled experiment where the floor boards just start to touch and then stop and see if the centerstand had hit. Another possibility would be to grind down the areas that are problematic. I need to get the bike in the air so I can get a good look at the underside and see if that's practical. Rod, if you happen to read this do you think removing some material on an angle from the touched areas would be feasible without compromising the stand's performance? I really like having this stand so I don't want to give up and take it off quite yet.
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